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Power Brake conversion 66 Corvette Roadster ?

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Old 08-07-2014, 02:27 PM
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keri45
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Default Power Brake conversion 66 Corvette Roadster ?

Since my 66 Roadster Had no Tank Sticker and the Repo Window Sticker is not of that much insight and info that can be authenticated., would it influence the value on a (Off Body Restored 427/390 with Factory AC and Factory Power Steering #s Matching to VIN and Trim.) ??
2nd ? Too much for me to handle so any suggestions as to Who is Capable of not screwing this up. I dont mind going to a Classic Car Restoration Facility but its far away,, thus do you think if I were to supply the Correct Parts Booster Fittings and Dual MC and associated parts from a Vendor that uses GM Restoration Parts that like a Chain Service Facility i.e Firestone ,or Brakes Plus or a Garage Small Time Station Mechanic could do this or dont take a chance Theyll screw it up... I mean how hard can it be if you have Brake Bleeders and Correct Tools to service brakes? Does it require Getting uinder the dash to realign the Brake pedal and screwing up the Dash wiring?? Perhaps beyong the capability of those types of stations...Thoughts as to how many hours do do that job and the difficulty for an average Maechanic.?? Thanks?
Old 08-07-2014, 02:45 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by keri45
Since my 66 Roadster Had no Tank Sticker and the Repo Window Sticker is not of that much insight and info that can be authenticated., would it influence the value on a (Off Body Restored 427/390 with Factory AC and Factory Power Steering #s Matching to VIN and Trim.) ??
2nd ? Too much for me to handle so any suggestions as to Who is Capable of not screwing this up. I dont mind going to a Classic Car Restoration Facility but its far away,, thus do you think if I were to supply the Correct Parts Booster Fittings and Dual MC and associated parts from a Vendor that uses GM Restoration Parts that like a Chain Service Facility i.e Firestone ,or Brakes Plus or a Garage Small Time Station Mechanic could do this or dont take a chance Theyll screw it up... I mean how hard can it be if you have Brake Bleeders and Correct Tools to service brakes? Does it require Getting uinder the dash to realign the Brake pedal and screwing up the Dash wiring?? Perhaps beyong the capability of those types of stations...Thoughts as to how many hours do do that job and the difficulty for an average Maechanic.?? Thanks?
For someone familiar with midyear Corvettes who has done this job before, it's not a big deal, and can be done properly in 4-6 hours. For someone not familiar with Corvettes, I wouldn't let them touch it.
Old 08-07-2014, 05:06 PM
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Easy Rhino
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If you don't have provenance documentation for a 50-year old mid-year, one could add any options not indicated by the trim tag, as long as it does not result in some tell-tale footprint.

This is both a blessing and a curse, as unscrupulous types try to 'manufacture' high-optioned cars.
Old 08-07-2014, 05:40 PM
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Tampa Jerry
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Default Brakes

Just a thought. I added power brakes to my 66. I went with a 67/68 master cylinder and booster. By not going with an original or an original repo unit, I saved between $1k to $2K. My car stops and does not know the difference. Jerry
Old 08-07-2014, 05:46 PM
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Default Agree With John Z

Keri,

I put a power booster and dual master cylinder kit on my 65' roadster last year and the most challenging part was installing the rear brake line - that winds through the frame at the rear.

Booster - yes you need to get under the dash and need to drill holes in the fire wall

Master cylinder and valve - bench bleed and install

Front brake line - no issue

Gravity bleed Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front

It took me a weekend

I would rather do it myself than than pay someone

Phil
Old 08-07-2014, 08:41 PM
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For your car I would get the correct booster and master cylinder $$ as noted not a big deal to install in a 66, rear brake line is easy to get to. 63-65 is on top of the frame.
Old 08-08-2014, 08:50 AM
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Default Firewall

If I remember correctly, the only holes that have to be drilled are at the top of the firewall for the booster. That is easy to do from the top of the engine compartment. I think you will have to remove two studs on the pedal assembly which will be replaced by the studs in the booster. Jerry
Old 08-08-2014, 04:03 PM
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And there's a sheet metal "paddle" to be bolted to the brake pedal arm to operate the brake light switch.

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