Oil pressure line question
#1
Burning Brakes
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Oil pressure line question
I believe they are compression fittings. Is it the "normal" type fitting where a small brass sleeve get's crimped onto the line?
I think mine is leaking by the engine, am thinking of simply cutting an inch or so off and re-install. If I need the brass ring, what size and where can I get one locally? Have not taken it apart yet to see so figured I'd see whats involved first.
I think mine is leaking by the engine, am thinking of simply cutting an inch or so off and re-install. If I need the brass ring, what size and where can I get one locally? Have not taken it apart yet to see so figured I'd see whats involved first.
#4
Melting Slicks
I don't think they qualify as normal, there is no brass ring. A smaller fitting is crimped around the tube as it's tightened into the larger fitting. Go up on one of the part house web sites and take a look at them. If you have the original type fittings, I don't think you will be able to re-use the smaller one. The tubes are prone to cracking due to flexing over time. For the price, I would recommend buying a new kit and replacing the whole thing.
#5
Melting Slicks
If you are going to replace, suggest getting a pre-bent line from Long Island Corvettes. The replacement has a 3/8" nut, I believe, and the original has a 5/16". Easier to put in the dash side first, and then the engine side.
You might try backing off the nut, and then see if you can push the tubing further into the nut, and then re-tighten.
I believe that the engine side actually has two nuts.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
You might try backing off the nut, and then see if you can push the tubing further into the nut, and then re-tighten.
I believe that the engine side actually has two nuts.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
#6
Team Owner
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The oil line doesn't use typical compression fittings with sleeves; they have proprietary GM fittings at both ends with a curved/tapered interface, plus an adapter fitting at the block that's 1/8" NPT male (block side) with the GM female fitting on the line side. Paragon includes the three fittings with their copper-plated steel line kit.
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jcchevy (02-05-2017)
#7
I just replaced the original oil pressure line on my '62. I don't know the year of your car, but the original line on mine was a smaller diameter than all the reproductions. Yes, my original line had a small brass sleeve compression fitting that the repros don't. Of course the fittings that come with the line kit (a pictured earlier) are different but work just as well.
If you are changing the line take the precaution of making sure your carpet is protected prior to starting the engine, just in case of an oil leak at the gauge.
If you are changing the line take the precaution of making sure your carpet is protected prior to starting the engine, just in case of an oil leak at the gauge.
#8
Drifting
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Yes, listen to John. Buy the kit, at least for the fitting that goes into the oil pressure gauge. You cannot find that fitting anywhere your flaps will not have one. I just went through this. I purchased the replacement kit, but didn't like the way the line looked, so I used some copper line I already had, coiled it a few times for dampening and fed thru the firewall to the gauge. I only used the special fitting for the gauge end. Yes, now I have an incomplete kit on the shelf.
#9
Burning Brakes
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As usual, JohnZ has a close up pic that helps. Found similar pics at vendor sites but not as close up as John's.
It looks like the brass fitting is a take off of the standard plumbing bushing / nut, but on the Vette one the bushing is part of the nut. I suspect that you can remove / re-tighten only a few times before a replacement is in order. I removed mine and re-tightened but I still seem to have a leak so guess a replacement is in order. I just replaced the distributor and had a real fun time getting it running again, must have had distributor in / out a dozen times before I got the timing correct. Guess I wiggled the line a few times, noticed a lot of oil on the ground after setting timing, added a quart, went for a ride and down a quart again so zeroed in on this as the culprit, it has leaks but have never added a quart before the spring oil change before.
Thanks for all the help guys
It looks like the brass fitting is a take off of the standard plumbing bushing / nut, but on the Vette one the bushing is part of the nut. I suspect that you can remove / re-tighten only a few times before a replacement is in order. I removed mine and re-tightened but I still seem to have a leak so guess a replacement is in order. I just replaced the distributor and had a real fun time getting it running again, must have had distributor in / out a dozen times before I got the timing correct. Guess I wiggled the line a few times, noticed a lot of oil on the ground after setting timing, added a quart, went for a ride and down a quart again so zeroed in on this as the culprit, it has leaks but have never added a quart before the spring oil change before.
Thanks for all the help guys
#10
Drifting
As usual, JohnZ has a close up pic that helps. Found similar pics at vendor sites but not as close up as John's.
It looks like the brass fitting is a take off of the standard plumbing bushing / nut, but on the Vette one the bushing is part of the nut. I suspect that you can remove / re-tighten only a few times before a replacement is in order. I removed mine and re-tightened but I still seem to have a leak so guess a replacement is in order. I just replaced the distributor and had a real fun time getting it running again, must have had distributor in / out a dozen times before I got the timing correct. Guess I wiggled the line a few times, noticed a lot of oil on the ground after setting timing, added a quart, went for a ride and down a quart again so zeroed in on this as the culprit, it has leaks but have never added a quart before the spring oil change before.
Thanks for all the help guys
It looks like the brass fitting is a take off of the standard plumbing bushing / nut, but on the Vette one the bushing is part of the nut. I suspect that you can remove / re-tighten only a few times before a replacement is in order. I removed mine and re-tightened but I still seem to have a leak so guess a replacement is in order. I just replaced the distributor and had a real fun time getting it running again, must have had distributor in / out a dozen times before I got the timing correct. Guess I wiggled the line a few times, noticed a lot of oil on the ground after setting timing, added a quart, went for a ride and down a quart again so zeroed in on this as the culprit, it has leaks but have never added a quart before the spring oil change before.
Thanks for all the help guys
Mark.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Is it a good idea to use some Teflon tape on the fitting on the screw that goes in the block? I assume the tapered one that screws into it and the tapered one in the gauge don't need it.
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jcchevy (02-05-2017)
#12
Le Mans Master
i would use the teflon paste, seems to work better for me and others too...jmo....