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Old 11-11-2010, 08:41 AM   #1
Larry Red 1959
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Default 1959 Overheating Issues

I have a 1959 283, dual carb, power glide setup. After a complete restoration the car has been back in operation for 5 years. Now I am having overheating problems. The temperature gauge will go to 180 and then up to 220 quickly. I have had the radiator cleaned, replaced the thermostat [2 times], replaced the water pump, flushed the engine, removed the gauge and had it checked, [while it was out I put in a manual gauge and it was still getting hot.], and checked the timing. Nothing has helped! Any ideas?
Thanks,
Larry
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:46 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Red 1959 View Post
I have a 1959 283, dual carb, power glide setup. After a complete restoration the car has been back in operation for 5 years. Now I am having overheating problems. The temperature gauge will go to 180 and then up to 220 quickly. I have had the radiator cleaned, replaced the thermostat [2 times], replaced the water pump, flushed the engine, removed the gauge and had it checked, [while it was out I put in a manual gauge and it was still getting hot.], and checked the timing. Nothing has helped! Any ideas?
Thanks,
Larry
get your hands on a p&g block checker with the dye method
this will conform or rule out an internal combustion leak, then go from there.....
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:01 AM   #3
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I forgot to mention that i tried that. If this is the same tester that picks up fumes from the radiatior. To make sure it was operating properly the liquid did not change color until i placed it at the back of the car by the exhaust.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:16 AM   #4
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Larry -
How much initial and total timing are you running? Is your distributor a non-vacuum advance unit, or are you running vacuum?
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:29 AM   #5
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i never had much luck cleaning a radiator. i go to dewitts and purchase a replacement core. i also have a 59, 270hp and once the radiator was recored i had no problems with driving in 90 plus degree weather. when my radiator was going bad i also could drive a while at 180, but once it got above 180 the temperature rose quickly.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:57 AM   #6
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it is a non-vacuum distributor.
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Red 1959 View Post
it is a non-vacuum distributor.
I think that's an important data point, but I'm also curious that this seems to have just started up.

You indicate the car has been back on the road for 5 years and now you have this problem.

Did the car operate normally for those previous 5 years?

How many miles did you cover in those 5 years?

Did you change anything about the car that directly preceded this issue?

It's possible the impellars of your water pump have degraded and you are no longer getting the coolant flow through your system.
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:26 AM   #8
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I think that's an important data point, but I'm also curious that this seems to have just started up.

You indicate the car has been back on the road for 5 years and now you have this problem.

Did the car operate normally for those previous 5 years?

How many miles did you cover in those 5 years?

Did you change anything about the car that directly preceded this issue?
Finally!
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:29 PM   #9
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Did the car operate normally for those previous 5 years?
YES, IT RAN GREAT

How many miles did you cover in those 5 years?
IT IS A SHOW CAR SO ONLY ABOUT 1500 MILES

Did you change anything about the car that directly preceded this issue?
I HAD A FUEL VENT LINE BREAK ON TOP OF THE FUEL TANK, DON'T SEE HOW THAT COULD HAVE AFFECTED IT???

It's possible the impellars of your water pump have degraded and you are no longer getting the coolant flow through your system.
I PUT ON A NEW WATER PUMP

THANKS FOR ALL OF THE INPUT!!
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Larry -
How much initial and total timing are you running? Is your distributor a non-vacuum advance unit, or are you running vacuum?
if no vac. adv....check for proper advance as you rev the mill
check for sticking advance mech.
check lower hose for collapse
if all checks out, radiator is suspect...good luck...
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:47 PM   #11
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Hi Everyone,
First, thanks for all of your input and help. Second, I finally found out why it is getting hot. Tried everything and nothing worked so tore down the engine. At a previous engine rebuild someone, while removing the freeze plug, left it in the block. After all these years of bouncing around it finally wedged itself at the water pump port and restricted the water from flowing. I am not violent person but if that re-builder was here right now a couple of blows to the knee caps with a tire tool would be justice for all!!
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Larry Red 1959 View Post
At a previous engine rebuild someone, while removing the freeze plug, left it in the block. After all these years of bouncing around it finally wedged itself at the water pump port and restricted the water from flowing.
Wow, just Wow.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:12 PM   #13
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Glad you found it.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:46 PM   #14
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I'm mad about it and it's not even my car !

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-02-2011 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:52 PM   #15
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I, too, have a 50-NINER.

It has had overheating problem for years...it would not dissipate any heat it gained in traffic to the point it boiled over. It got progressively worse over the years, and barely driveable. I had replaced the core...many flushes...various thermostats, fans, etc... all to no avail..

UNTIL LAST YEAR when I bought a Dewitts aluminium radiator. Now it runs at about 160 or so and never gets about 180 even on a hot summer day...

If the freeze plug doesn't solve the problem, a Dewitts will..

Last edited by BobT59; 11-02-2011 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:54 PM   #16
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Well, that's certainly a new one to add to my "Root Causes For Overheating" list.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:22 PM   #17
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I have had the radiator cleaned, Larry

What does cleaned mean?, radiators need the tanks removed and rodded out or recored if they have so much corosion that the tubes get too thin, also if the shops find leaking tubes they often solder them shut.

after that it is usually a timing or airflow issue.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:31 PM   #18
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Well, that's certainly a new one to add to my "Root Causes For Overheating" list.
wow!!
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