327/365 Build Questions
#1
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327/365 Build Questions
Hello,
I have been reading through pages and pages of good material on here regarding the various builds for a fairly stock 327. I want to build a good strong 327/365 for my 65 coupe. I want to retain the stock 11:1 compression and use an original 30/30 solid grind.
It seems that the best piston option is the Speedpro forged unit LF 2166. From what I can tell it only is offered with a pressed pin option? I plan on using aftermarket rods and was looking at the Eagle ESP lightweight H beams, but they use a floating pin.
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons come with the grooves machined for pin locks or would I have to get different pins and have the pistons machined? I like the idea of a full floating pin, I am going to spin it up, and will take all the gains I can get. Or is there some other piston that would be better to use with the stock deck height and dome volume that will allow the floating pins?
Otherwise I am looking to use 461 heads, stock type springs, pocket port, 2.02/1.6 valves, stock intake, 2818 carb etc. I was thinking of throwing some ARP main studs in there. I cant really see the need for the program 4 bolt caps, I am not stroking it out, anyone have thoughts on these?
Thanks
Brad Harbold
I have been reading through pages and pages of good material on here regarding the various builds for a fairly stock 327. I want to build a good strong 327/365 for my 65 coupe. I want to retain the stock 11:1 compression and use an original 30/30 solid grind.
It seems that the best piston option is the Speedpro forged unit LF 2166. From what I can tell it only is offered with a pressed pin option? I plan on using aftermarket rods and was looking at the Eagle ESP lightweight H beams, but they use a floating pin.
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons come with the grooves machined for pin locks or would I have to get different pins and have the pistons machined? I like the idea of a full floating pin, I am going to spin it up, and will take all the gains I can get. Or is there some other piston that would be better to use with the stock deck height and dome volume that will allow the floating pins?
Otherwise I am looking to use 461 heads, stock type springs, pocket port, 2.02/1.6 valves, stock intake, 2818 carb etc. I was thinking of throwing some ARP main studs in there. I cant really see the need for the program 4 bolt caps, I am not stroking it out, anyone have thoughts on these?
Thanks
Brad Harbold
#3
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There are other piston options.
It just depends on how much you want to spend.
I bought Speed Pro Power Forged "LW" lightweight pistons for my 302 and the weight variance was so bad my machinist almost refused to balance them.
I wish I'd spent a bit more and bought Wiseco or SRP.
SRP has a forged 12cc pop up piston with a floating pin for just a bit more than Speed Pros. Part no. 147752 for .030 over.
You can always adjust your compression ratio with your head gasket.
DT
It just depends on how much you want to spend.
I bought Speed Pro Power Forged "LW" lightweight pistons for my 302 and the weight variance was so bad my machinist almost refused to balance them.
I wish I'd spent a bit more and bought Wiseco or SRP.
SRP has a forged 12cc pop up piston with a floating pin for just a bit more than Speed Pros. Part no. 147752 for .030 over.
You can always adjust your compression ratio with your head gasket.
DT
#4
Safety Car
For the kind of build that you're talking about, I believe that you're wasting your money on fancy pistons.
But, if you lose the boat anchor carb/intake manifold setup, and install a set of headers, then these are what you should be looking at:
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR...-327_dome.aspx
The net dome volume on these is larger @ 12cc than the FM @ 5.3.............but these are a MUCH better piston. They are lighter, come with super light pins and use narrow rings.
I HIGHLY recommend these. If you use tight quench and open your chambers to compensate for the bigger dome, you'll have a potent little screamer. The domes can be machined.
But, if you lose the boat anchor carb/intake manifold setup, and install a set of headers, then these are what you should be looking at:
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR...-327_dome.aspx
The net dome volume on these is larger @ 12cc than the FM @ 5.3.............but these are a MUCH better piston. They are lighter, come with super light pins and use narrow rings.
I HIGHLY recommend these. If you use tight quench and open your chambers to compensate for the bigger dome, you'll have a potent little screamer. The domes can be machined.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; 10-20-2010 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Correct piston dome size.
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Thanks for the replys guys. Wolfman, I already have the intake from my L 79 setup, it was my understanding that the 350 and 365 HP intakes are the same. Thank you though.
With regard to the SRP pistons it looks like the dome volume on their 327 piston is 12 CC. I am not opposed to using the better piston, I just dont want compression to get too high. I like the idea of the lighter piston and the better ring pack. I assume these would accept floating pins? I could also possibly machine off some of the dome?
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons are machined with grooves for the spiro locks? I know they are listed as pressed pins but...?
Thanks
Brad
With regard to the SRP pistons it looks like the dome volume on their 327 piston is 12 CC. I am not opposed to using the better piston, I just dont want compression to get too high. I like the idea of the lighter piston and the better ring pack. I assume these would accept floating pins? I could also possibly machine off some of the dome?
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons are machined with grooves for the spiro locks? I know they are listed as pressed pins but...?
Thanks
Brad
#6
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There are other piston options.
It just depends on how much you want to spend.
I bought Speed Pro Power Forged "LW" lightweight pistons for my 302 and the weight variance was so bad my machinist almost refused to balance them.
I wish I'd spent a bit more and bought Wiseco or SRP.
SRP has a forged 12cc pop up piston with a floating pin for just a bit more than Speed Pros. Part no. 147752 for .030 over.
You can always adjust your compression ratio with your head gasket.
DT
It just depends on how much you want to spend.
I bought Speed Pro Power Forged "LW" lightweight pistons for my 302 and the weight variance was so bad my machinist almost refused to balance them.
I wish I'd spent a bit more and bought Wiseco or SRP.
SRP has a forged 12cc pop up piston with a floating pin for just a bit more than Speed Pros. Part no. 147752 for .030 over.
You can always adjust your compression ratio with your head gasket.
DT
#7
Drifting
Hello,
I have been reading through pages and pages of good material on here regarding the various builds for a fairly stock 327. I want to build a good strong 327/365 for my 65 coupe. I want to retain the stock 11:1 compression and use an original 30/30 solid grind.
It seems that the best piston option is the Speedpro forged unit LF 2166. From what I can tell it only is offered with a pressed pin option? I plan on using aftermarket rods and was looking at the Eagle ESP lightweight H beams, but they use a floating pin.
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons come with the grooves machined for pin locks or would I have to get different pins and have the pistons machined? I like the idea of a full floating pin, I am going to spin it up, and will take all the gains I can get. Or is there some other piston that would be better to use with the stock deck height and dome volume that will allow the floating pins?
Otherwise I am looking to use 461 heads, stock type springs, pocket port, 2.02/1.6 valves, stock intake, 2818 carb etc. I was thinking of throwing some ARP main studs in there. I cant really see the need for the program 4 bolt caps, I am not stroking it out, anyone have thoughts on these?
Thanks
Brad Harbold
I have been reading through pages and pages of good material on here regarding the various builds for a fairly stock 327. I want to build a good strong 327/365 for my 65 coupe. I want to retain the stock 11:1 compression and use an original 30/30 solid grind.
It seems that the best piston option is the Speedpro forged unit LF 2166. From what I can tell it only is offered with a pressed pin option? I plan on using aftermarket rods and was looking at the Eagle ESP lightweight H beams, but they use a floating pin.
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons come with the grooves machined for pin locks or would I have to get different pins and have the pistons machined? I like the idea of a full floating pin, I am going to spin it up, and will take all the gains I can get. Or is there some other piston that would be better to use with the stock deck height and dome volume that will allow the floating pins?
Otherwise I am looking to use 461 heads, stock type springs, pocket port, 2.02/1.6 valves, stock intake, 2818 carb etc. I was thinking of throwing some ARP main studs in there. I cant really see the need for the program 4 bolt caps, I am not stroking it out, anyone have thoughts on these?
Thanks
Brad Harbold
Here are some links to look over
http://kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.ph...tails&P_id=378
http://kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.ph...tails&P_id=380
With a 3.250 stroke the 4 bolt caps are not needed.
If your boring the cylinders and not decking the block find a shop that can bore of the mains instead of the decks, Boring off unsquared decks is not really recomended in a performance build.
There are shops out there that can deck your block with out cutting of the VIN number. So far I have never seen a GM deck that was flat from the factory.
A line hone is recomended as well more so if your changing to a stud kit.
ON the rods more likely then not both ends will need to be sized for your bearing clearance and wrist pin clearance.
And check the pin bores in the pistons as we have had to hone them for proper sizing.
Balancing is a must
Last if you are boring and honing spend the extra money and your block plate honed using the same gasketand hardware you will be using in the end build as ring seal is key with a 11:01 performance engine.
Hope I have helped and good luck with your build
Carl
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#10
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We have done quite a few of those builds over the years and it is hard to find pistons, We have been using the Keith Black Forged pistons and they offer one for a 6 inch rods as well!!!!
Here are some links to look over
http://kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.ph...tails&P_id=378
http://kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.ph...tails&P_id=380
With a 3.250 stroke the 4 bolt caps are not needed.
If your boring the cylinders and not decking the block find a shop that can bore of the mains instead of the decks, Boring off unsquared decks is not really recomended in a performance build.
There are shops out there that can deck your block with out cutting of the VIN number. So far I have never seen a GM deck that was flat from the factory.
A line hone is recomended as well more so if your changing to a stud kit.
ON the rods more likely then not both ends will need to be sized for your bearing clearance and wrist pin clearance.
And check the pin bores in the pistons as we have had to hone them for proper sizing.
Balancing is a must
Last if you are boring and honing spend the extra money and your block plate honed using the same gasketand hardware you will be using in the end build as ring seal is key with a 11:01 performance engine.
Hope I have helped and good luck with your build
Carl
Here are some links to look over
http://kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.ph...tails&P_id=378
http://kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.ph...tails&P_id=380
With a 3.250 stroke the 4 bolt caps are not needed.
If your boring the cylinders and not decking the block find a shop that can bore of the mains instead of the decks, Boring off unsquared decks is not really recomended in a performance build.
There are shops out there that can deck your block with out cutting of the VIN number. So far I have never seen a GM deck that was flat from the factory.
A line hone is recomended as well more so if your changing to a stud kit.
ON the rods more likely then not both ends will need to be sized for your bearing clearance and wrist pin clearance.
And check the pin bores in the pistons as we have had to hone them for proper sizing.
Balancing is a must
Last if you are boring and honing spend the extra money and your block plate honed using the same gasketand hardware you will be using in the end build as ring seal is key with a 11:01 performance engine.
Hope I have helped and good luck with your build
Carl
#11
Drifting
We have used there 383 pistons in some builds and we did not ever see a problems and one was built for a marine application and that was 2 or 3 years ago and no problems so far.
Now the Speed pro stuff thats made in Mexico I have heard and seen issues with those pistons and have seen balance issues with through other shops we have balanced for but not 327 pistons.
If we got a set that was not right we would send them back and get a better set!!
#12
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So far we have seen no balancing issues with them and have worked fine and these are the forged ones not the hypers as I try to stay away from them!!
We have used there 383 pistons in some builds and we did not ever see a problems and one was built for a marine application and that was 2 or 3 years ago and no problems so far.
Now the Speed pro stuff thats made in Mexico I have heard and seen issues with those pistons and have seen balance issues with through other shops we have balanced for but not 327 pistons.
If we got a set that was not right we would send them back and get a better set!!
We have used there 383 pistons in some builds and we did not ever see a problems and one was built for a marine application and that was 2 or 3 years ago and no problems so far.
Now the Speed pro stuff thats made in Mexico I have heard and seen issues with those pistons and have seen balance issues with through other shops we have balanced for but not 327 pistons.
If we got a set that was not right we would send them back and get a better set!!
#15
Le Mans Master
The 2166s are not cut for spiro locks but you can have them cut like Mark did. I recall that he had Arias pistons cut his, not sure that floating pistons are going to buy you much. These things spin to 7K regardless of press or floating.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; 10-20-2010 at 02:23 PM.
#16
Drifting
Interesting the ones we have used must have been lighter then the stock pistons as we have always had to take weight out of the crank which tells me the pistons are lighter if they were heavier I would be adding weight to counter weights.
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Thanks for the replys guys. Wolfman, I already have the intake from my L 79 setup, it was my understanding that the 350 and 365 HP intakes are the same. Thank you though.
With regard to the SRP pistons it looks like the dome volume on their 327 piston is 12 CC. I am not opposed to using the better piston, I just dont want compression to get too high. I like the idea of the lighter piston and the better ring pack. I assume these would accept floating pins? I could also possibly machine off some of the dome?
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons are machined with grooves for the spiro locks? I know they are listed as pressed pins but...?
Thanks
Brad
With regard to the SRP pistons it looks like the dome volume on their 327 piston is 12 CC. I am not opposed to using the better piston, I just dont want compression to get too high. I like the idea of the lighter piston and the better ring pack. I assume these would accept floating pins? I could also possibly machine off some of the dome?
Does anyone know if the Speedpro pistons are machined with grooves for the spiro locks? I know they are listed as pressed pins but...?
Thanks
Brad
These are pressed pin - no grooves machined - its one or the other.
You can have the grooves machined in the pistons, but that would be a huge waste of money on an inferior piston.
For the cost of the machine work you can upgrade to a better floating pin piston.
All of the alternative pistons mentioned so far have floating pins as will any modern performance piston.
As long as it isn't a hollow dome piston you can always machine the dome.
DT
#19
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I was just curious what might be wrong with them.
I can't think of much reason why anyone would want floating piston pins on a street engine.
#20
Le Mans Master
there is no advantage at all for a full floating pin on any build....it just makes it more convenient when building or re building an engine.....