Project 396 - THE PLAN
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Project 396 - THE PLAN
Well, here we are 6 weeks after the car is bought.
After a thorough ID, we have:
RPO
C07 Auxiliary Hardtop (intact)
MM Milano Maroon exterior (intact)
N/A Maroon leather seats (intact but stained black)
L78 425 HP 396 Turbo Fire engine (lost)
F40 Special Front/Rear Suspension (all intact)
M20 4-speed (intact) w 3.70 rear (intact)
G81 Positraction Rear Axle (intact)
N14 Factory sidepipes (intact)
A31 Power windows (intact)
J50 Power brakes (intact)
U69 Am/FM Radio (intact)
Weight: 3507 lbs "curb weight" including hard top
DECISIONS:
1. The car is temporarily NOM and needs a "Heart Transplant". Decided that aluminum heads, although they save weight and have "the look" of a serious performance car, are not needed with the extra-ordinary results that VortecPro has achieved with ported iron heads. The engine will look bone stock with orange valve covers
and will fit the stock 1965 396 exhaust manifolds. Therefore decided to go with the VortecPro Performance 467 CI 500 HP 565 TQ at 5700 rpm on today's 91 Octane pump gasoline. Flat tappet hydraulic cam for a quite ride and a warranty w 9.1:1 compression ratio and 4-bolt mains.
2. For my driving needs, we want it to be a decent and pleasant car to drive, so a 5-speed was decided. The Tremec 600 can handle all the torque the engine can dish out. The Keisler "Perfect Fit" package fits (with some coaxing) the stock body without mods. The original 4-speed M20 goes on the shelf for posterity.
3. Appearance wise, I want two looks: the "stock look" and the "hot street machine" look.
These are my two inspiration cars:
"Stock Look"
"Hot Street Machine Look"
4. Paint/Interior/Exterior
Stock except "over-restore" the paint. Smooth, excellent fits that GM did not have time in production to do. "The way we wish" they did it; not "they way it was done" in 1965.
Detail the frame "frame-on" to retain the perfect fit for the doors, hood, etc. This was a hard decision, but if it is done with care, it will be really nice.
Based on finding the correct paint codes from BarryK, go with trim tag specs all the way. Milano Maroon exterior with Maroon interior, black soft top, maroon hard top.
Here is my paint inspiration, BarryK's coupe:
SUMMARY
Engine P/N Spec
Crate VortecPro Performance Engines 467 CI/440 HP/500 TQ
Carb 0-80770 Holly 770cfm, 4160, Elec Choke, Vac Sec
Fuel Pump Stock 65 396, mechanical
Bell Housing 3899621 For 11" Clutch, 168 Tooth
Flywheel 14096987 14", 168 T, Steel
Alternator 1100630 62 Amp w Regulator
Starter For 11" Clutch, 168 Tooth (have not specified yet)
Air Cleaner Stock 396
Distributor MSD 8572 a 5520 spark box
Clutch ?? (Not specified yet)
Transmission
Transmission Keisler "Perfect Fit", 5-speed Tremec, TKO-600, 0.64 OD
Misc Bolts, Shifter, etc.
Clutch 11" 1-1/8 X 26 Spline
Paint
Stock Color Milano Maroon 900MM
Materials Clearcoat/Base Coat PPG
Interior
Door Panels Maroon Deluxe
Seat Covers Maroon, Leather
Guages Stock
Carpet, Insulation
Radio Stock
Exterior
Badges 396 Stock
Sidepipes BB 2.5" Stock onto 65 ex manifolds
Covers For Sidepipes New Stock
Grill 1965 Repro
TOPS
Soft Top Replace Soft Black Material
Hard Top New window Repaint top
Wheels
Set 1 TT 2.1 Am Racing 17x7 4" BS
Set 1 225/55x17 Goodyear
Set 2 Front 15x7 Rally 4.25" BS Monte Carlo
Set 2 Rear 15x7 Rally 3.75" BS Code AG
Set 2 Caps 1967 Vette "Disk Brake" flat caps, new
Set 2 Rings Corvette 67 Fronts (2.75"); 68 Rears (3.00"), new
Setup 3 Stock 65 Hubcaps over the rally wheels
Tires:
Set 1 225/55x17 Goodyear
Set 2/3 225/65x15 Mickey Thompson S/T
Trim
Chrome: all redone
SS: all repolished
All those who answered my questions I really appreciate. Too many to name. You know who you are: THANK YOU!!
Wish me luck or make a suggestion.
After a thorough ID, we have:
RPO
C07 Auxiliary Hardtop (intact)
MM Milano Maroon exterior (intact)
N/A Maroon leather seats (intact but stained black)
L78 425 HP 396 Turbo Fire engine (lost)
F40 Special Front/Rear Suspension (all intact)
M20 4-speed (intact) w 3.70 rear (intact)
G81 Positraction Rear Axle (intact)
N14 Factory sidepipes (intact)
A31 Power windows (intact)
J50 Power brakes (intact)
U69 Am/FM Radio (intact)
Weight: 3507 lbs "curb weight" including hard top
DECISIONS:
1. The car is temporarily NOM and needs a "Heart Transplant". Decided that aluminum heads, although they save weight and have "the look" of a serious performance car, are not needed with the extra-ordinary results that VortecPro has achieved with ported iron heads. The engine will look bone stock with orange valve covers
and will fit the stock 1965 396 exhaust manifolds. Therefore decided to go with the VortecPro Performance 467 CI 500 HP 565 TQ at 5700 rpm on today's 91 Octane pump gasoline. Flat tappet hydraulic cam for a quite ride and a warranty w 9.1:1 compression ratio and 4-bolt mains.
2. For my driving needs, we want it to be a decent and pleasant car to drive, so a 5-speed was decided. The Tremec 600 can handle all the torque the engine can dish out. The Keisler "Perfect Fit" package fits (with some coaxing) the stock body without mods. The original 4-speed M20 goes on the shelf for posterity.
3. Appearance wise, I want two looks: the "stock look" and the "hot street machine" look.
These are my two inspiration cars:
"Stock Look"
"Hot Street Machine Look"
4. Paint/Interior/Exterior
Stock except "over-restore" the paint. Smooth, excellent fits that GM did not have time in production to do. "The way we wish" they did it; not "they way it was done" in 1965.
Detail the frame "frame-on" to retain the perfect fit for the doors, hood, etc. This was a hard decision, but if it is done with care, it will be really nice.
Based on finding the correct paint codes from BarryK, go with trim tag specs all the way. Milano Maroon exterior with Maroon interior, black soft top, maroon hard top.
Here is my paint inspiration, BarryK's coupe:
SUMMARY
Engine P/N Spec
Crate VortecPro Performance Engines 467 CI/440 HP/500 TQ
Carb 0-80770 Holly 770cfm, 4160, Elec Choke, Vac Sec
Fuel Pump Stock 65 396, mechanical
Bell Housing 3899621 For 11" Clutch, 168 Tooth
Flywheel 14096987 14", 168 T, Steel
Alternator 1100630 62 Amp w Regulator
Starter For 11" Clutch, 168 Tooth (have not specified yet)
Air Cleaner Stock 396
Distributor MSD 8572 a 5520 spark box
Clutch ?? (Not specified yet)
Transmission
Transmission Keisler "Perfect Fit", 5-speed Tremec, TKO-600, 0.64 OD
Misc Bolts, Shifter, etc.
Clutch 11" 1-1/8 X 26 Spline
Paint
Stock Color Milano Maroon 900MM
Materials Clearcoat/Base Coat PPG
Interior
Door Panels Maroon Deluxe
Seat Covers Maroon, Leather
Guages Stock
Carpet, Insulation
Radio Stock
Exterior
Badges 396 Stock
Sidepipes BB 2.5" Stock onto 65 ex manifolds
Covers For Sidepipes New Stock
Grill 1965 Repro
TOPS
Soft Top Replace Soft Black Material
Hard Top New window Repaint top
Wheels
Set 1 TT 2.1 Am Racing 17x7 4" BS
Set 1 225/55x17 Goodyear
Set 2 Front 15x7 Rally 4.25" BS Monte Carlo
Set 2 Rear 15x7 Rally 3.75" BS Code AG
Set 2 Caps 1967 Vette "Disk Brake" flat caps, new
Set 2 Rings Corvette 67 Fronts (2.75"); 68 Rears (3.00"), new
Setup 3 Stock 65 Hubcaps over the rally wheels
Tires:
Set 1 225/55x17 Goodyear
Set 2/3 225/65x15 Mickey Thompson S/T
Trim
Chrome: all redone
SS: all repolished
All those who answered my questions I really appreciate. Too many to name. You know who you are: THANK YOU!!
Wish me luck or make a suggestion.
Last edited by Larry N. Johnson; 08-07-2013 at 10:31 AM. Reason: added set 2/3 tires
#2
Burning Brakes
I haven't contributed to your exercise yet. I had a 427 '67 back in the day which was Milano maroon with side pipes and flat hub caps and trim rings, also had a black soft top and a maroon hardtop ! Only difference was my black interior . My experience was that it was a "low key" screamer that didn't call a lot of attention to itself, almost a sleeper, if any Corvette could be a sleeper. As long as I wasn't "stupid" with the pipes no one gave it a second look (which was good from my point of view). Have you forsaken the FFR ?? Bob
Last edited by claf; 08-31-2010 at 09:42 PM.
#3
Tech Contributor
Considering how much work you are doing, I think leaving the body on the frame simply because of a concern about door gaps, is a missed opportunity to do the car right for little risk.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
#4
Le Mans Master
Hey Larry,
For the stock look, had you considered Knock Offs or original 65 hubcaps? As you know, I also like the look of the Rallys but I think for the stock look I would have to go with the Knock offs or the caps. That's it Larry, a third look!!!!!
Don
For the stock look, had you considered Knock Offs or original 65 hubcaps? As you know, I also like the look of the Rallys but I think for the stock look I would have to go with the Knock offs or the caps. That's it Larry, a third look!!!!!
Don
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I haven't contributed to your exercise yet. I had a 427 '67 back in the day which was Milano maroon with side pipes and flat hub caps and trim rings, also had a black soft top and a maroon hardtop ! Only difference was my black interior . My experience was that it was a "low key" screamer that didn't call a lot of attention to itself, almost a sleeper, if any Corvette could be a sleeper. As long as I wasn't "stupid" with the pipes no one gave it a second look (which was good from my point of view). Have you forsaken the FFR ?? Bob
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Considering how much work you are doing, I think leaving the body on the frame simply because of a concern about door gaps, is a missed opportunity to do the car right for little risk.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
and at the end, he recommended paint first then body off.
Sooo, the decision to "frame-off" the chassis is still possible.
#7
Tech Contributor
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
4 Looks!
More "looks" are better!!
The "Knock Off Look"
"The Hubcap Look"
4 looks? Change weekly!!
#9
Le Mans Master
Sounds like a plan but why do we just buy one more each and switch every once in awhile........I'll buy the hubcaps ( whew, just saved myself some serious coin)
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
Received 1,762 Likes
on
1,529 Posts
ttt
Man the cars look great....
#11
Actually, hubcaps can cost more than some alloy wheels, probably because the mags fit a lot of vehicles besides Corvettes.
Only differences I could see between your stock look and street machine look were:
1. bigger wheels and tires
2. small block hood
...on the street rod! Will the big block even fit under the plain wrapper?
Only differences I could see between your stock look and street machine look were:
1. bigger wheels and tires
2. small block hood
...on the street rod! Will the big block even fit under the plain wrapper?
#12
Le Mans Master
Actually, hubcaps can cost more than some alloy wheels, probably because the mags fit a lot of vehicles besides Corvettes.
Only differences I could see between your stock look and street machine look were:
1. bigger wheels and tires
2. small block hood
...on the street rod! Will the big block even fit under the plain wrapper?
Only differences I could see between your stock look and street machine look were:
1. bigger wheels and tires
2. small block hood
...on the street rod! Will the big block even fit under the plain wrapper?
#13
Drifting
Larry , I think you right on. Burgandy/Burgandy is a great combo. Can you get 396 valve covers on the 454 ?
I would suggest Vette Packs that have the 2 1/2" inside and 3 1/2" outside. I took off my headers and put on 2 1/2" rams horn and went with the Vette packs. It quieted down the Vette and also they flow better then stock.Part number 2540-VETTE 2-1/2" 3-1/2" 40" 46" . A Gentleman did a after dyno and gained 33 RWHP.
I would suggest Vette Packs that have the 2 1/2" inside and 3 1/2" outside. I took off my headers and put on 2 1/2" rams horn and went with the Vette packs. It quieted down the Vette and also they flow better then stock.Part number 2540-VETTE 2-1/2" 3-1/2" 40" 46" . A Gentleman did a after dyno and gained 33 RWHP.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Larry , I think you right on. Burgandy/Burgandy is a great combo. Can you get 396 valve covers on the 454 ?
I would suggest Vette Packs that have the 2 1/2" inside and 3 1/2" outside. I took off my headers and put on 2 1/2" rams horn and went with the Vette packs. It quieted down the Vette and also they flow better then stock.Part number 2540-VETTE 2-1/2" 3-1/2" 40" 46" . A Gentleman did a after dyno and gained 33 RWHP.
I would suggest Vette Packs that have the 2 1/2" inside and 3 1/2" outside. I took off my headers and put on 2 1/2" rams horn and went with the Vette packs. It quieted down the Vette and also they flow better then stock.Part number 2540-VETTE 2-1/2" 3-1/2" 40" 46" . A Gentleman did a after dyno and gained 33 RWHP.
2. On the sidepipes, I was very torn what to do. I prefere a "sleeper" i.e., quiet style but the sidepipe covers limit one's options. In the end I bought (they arrived today) a set of stock sodepipes, aluminized. The thought being to get the original sound. It it's too loud, then we'll have to look at Vette pack. Thanks for the suggestion.
3. On the carb, the choices are many, but the decision as of today is the Holley 770 cfm GM P/N 19170093. It has vacuum secondaries, electic choke and should be enough CFM for 5000 rom 454 CI.
Holley 4160-style 770-cfm four-barrel carburetor
Features show-car-quality polished finish
Dual feed, center-hung float bowls
Vacuum secondaries
Automatic electric choke
quick-change adjustable vacuum secondary
Recommended for Small-Block and Big-Block engines, including street, competition, towing adn off-road vehicles
Bolts and gaskets included
Replaces Holley 4160 750-cfm carburetor #12485506
Features show-car-quality polished finish
Dual feed, center-hung float bowls
Vacuum secondaries
Automatic electric choke
quick-change adjustable vacuum secondary
Recommended for Small-Block and Big-Block engines, including street, competition, towing adn off-road vehicles
Bolts and gaskets included
Replaces Holley 4160 750-cfm carburetor #12485506
4. Regarding the Distributor, many report good results with the MSD 8572 unit:
Corvette owners can now replace their worn out Magna-Pulse distributors with this precision Pro-Billet Tach Drive Distributor. Advantages such as an accurate magnetic pick-up, oversized shaft, vacuum advance and a billet aluminum housing are just a few of the MSD advantages. Inside the billet housing, a sealed ball bearing and long sintered bushing guide a 0.500” steel shaft for high rpm accuracy. A special reluctor is mounted to this shaft and is responsible for triggering the magnetic pick-up. An adjustable mechanical advance assembly allows you to get the most performance out of your Vette’s engine by custom tailoring a timing curve to fit your application. The tach drive assembly is compact to clear the firewall and linkage. It can be repositioned easily to fit different applications plus has a grease fitting for lubrication.
Must be used with an MSD 6, 7, 8 or 10 Series Ignition
Corvette with Vaccum Advance, '63-'74 Applications
Must be used with an MSD 6, 7, 8 or 10 Series Ignition
Corvette with Vaccum Advance, '63-'74 Applications
I also wonder if this distributor can be adjusted to provide the needed advance both mechanical and vacuum. Or is the "Bushing and Spring Set" needed for adjustment?
Thanks for the feedback and suggestions!
Last edited by Larry N. Johnson; 10-24-2010 at 05:54 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Decided to fill the extra tail lights on the 6 tail lights we now have in favor of a stock 4-tail light look.
Good bye 6 tail lights!
Hello 4 tail lights (not my car) but we will have 4 red, no backup clears.
Good bye 6 tail lights!
Hello 4 tail lights (not my car) but we will have 4 red, no backup clears.
#17
Race Director
Just to pick nits:
the BB 396/427/454 motors were TurboJet motors, the SB 283, 327,350 were TurboFire.
And of course, the 6 bangers motors as used in passenger cars and trucks were TurboThrift motors, IIRC.
Not sure what the four cyl motors as used in early Chevy II's were called.
Doug
the BB 396/427/454 motors were TurboJet motors, the SB 283, 327,350 were TurboFire.
And of course, the 6 bangers motors as used in passenger cars and trucks were TurboThrift motors, IIRC.
Not sure what the four cyl motors as used in early Chevy II's were called.
Doug
#18
Pro
Larry, sounds like you got your work cut out for you but, heck, that's why we own these cars. Good luck and post pictures as often as you can, want to see the progress. This may give me inspiration to go into my 65 396 deeper!
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Norwalk ohio
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2019 Corvette of the Year Winner
St. Jude Donor '15
Considering how much work you are doing, I think leaving the body on the frame simply because of a concern about door gaps, is a missed opportunity to do the car right for little risk.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
#20
Heel & Toe
Top Color
Milano Maroon exterior with Maroon interior, black soft top, maroon hard top.
Might give some consideration to a beige soft top on this combo, unless you know black was original color on this car.
Great plan!!! Keep us up to date.
Bob