stingray6507

I have a 62 327,250 with a water pump that is leaking from both ports around the gaskets and the weep hole. I have removed the motor mount bracket. I have cleaned the engine block and the bracket. When I mount the new water pump ( from Bill Mock ) I was going to use permatex high tack liquid on all the surfaces. I was going to tork down the bolts to 20 ft. lbs.. I can't find anything on tork. Does anyone recommend anything differient? When I install the new one is there anything I should look out for? All help is welcomed. Thank you. Joe.

62Jeff

Before you mount it, ensure the bolts on the back of the pump are snug.

Also, you may wish to torque the motor mount and water pump to one side as you tighten it up. Let me search the forum for the details, be right back...

62Jeff

This thread has interesting data in it
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ose-again.html

Also, the water pump bolts should be torqued to 25-35 lb-ft according to the procedure in the ST-12.

As for torquing the mount/pump, couldn't find the thread but the idea was to lift the passenger side of the mount and pump before you tighten the 4 water pump bolts. This way as you rev the engine later and the engine torques to the passenger side, you will have already removed all the play that could have existed (in that direction) between the mount, pump, and engine.

stingray6507

Hi Jeff: The link you gave me was loaded with great info. When you say to lift the passenger side first because of the torque of the engine is it to take out the play of the hole? So as to have the bottom of the hole up against the bottom of the bolt so when you accelerate the bolt has already bottomed out. No movement on mount or gasket. thanks again. Joe

62Jeff

Hi Joe - Yes, that's the idea, to eliminate the play. If you don't eliminate the play, then there's a chance that your engine could shift ever so slightly in relation to the mount/water pump and of course that can create a leak.

Fawndeuce

You will also have to re-torque the bolts after the first time or two that you drive it. The sealant will compress, bolts could leak again. If your plate is smooth with no pitting, and you do as Jeff recommended, you should have no problems in the future after you re-torque.



Paul

stingray6507

Jeff: One of the comments was that the bolt that holds the brace for the generator can not be torqued enough or my snap. Do they make a stronger bolt. I want to keep it original so that I can get it judged. Also they mentioned using a tap in the holes; What does that do? Joe

62Jeff

Joe I've never (so far) had a problem torquing that bolt to the requisite 35 lb-ft.

The bolt holes in the block for the water pump go into water passages. By running a tap through the holes you clean up the threads. It's also a good idea to run the bolts through a die to do the same thing. Then when you put thread sealer on the bolts you know you are getting an optimal seal on those bolt threads.

stingray6507

Thank you Paul for the input. Jeff showed me your thread. Lots of info. Jeff, I poked a piece of wire hanger with a turn on the end and put it in the hole. It seemed to bottom out and with the end turned I tried to see if there was a passage to the water jacket. It seems to bottom out. Do you think that the holes go all the way through in this case. Do they all go through? Do you know what tap size I will need to clean out the holes? Can not thank you enough for all of your help. I glad you have a 62. Joe

62Jeff

I've always treated all 4 as if they went through. Maybe only some of them do.

I'm afraid I don't, but tomorrow I think I can get that data for you. I have 2 studs I used to align everything, I ought to be able to use them to determine the size of the tap.

You are welcome, glad you found a car you did, and not all those bad ones you were initially checking out!

stingray6507

Thanks Jeff, I appreciate you sharing your expertise as always. Joe

Coves4me

Joe,

On both my 59 and 62, I used Grade 8 bolts and washers to install the water pump. Why? There is much less likelihood that you'll snap a bolt and you can really tighten them up to 35 lbs. and beyond. For the best mounting support, you can use Grade 8 studs and use washers and nuts to mount the assembly. Studs and nuts will give you a higher value clamping force than bolts can. When you consider that the whole front of the engine is supported by 4 bolts, it makes a lot of sense to use better hardware. Good luck.

Mark

JohnZ

Those bolts are 3/8"-16. I wouldn't use a tap - I'd use a 3/8"-16 thread-chaser to clean up the holes in the block. Taps remove metal, and that's the last thing you want to do; a thread-chaser is slightly smaller in diameter than a tap, and is made to clean crud out of the threads without removing metal.

mechron

joe if your pump is leaking from weep hole the front seal/bearing has gone south.
but on C1s, that front motor mount bracket (the one between the water pump and the block on C1s) has always been a source of leaks on C1s, that engine mount bracket is crazy, that steel bracket, motor mount always corrooded. i hated it and always replaced those in the old days on the C1s,

stingray6507

Thanks guys for the input. I will be going out to get a set of thread chasers. I will be done cleaning up all the parts tomorrow and the pump should be in. I haven't looked at the bracket to see condition. If it looks corroded I will buy another one. Where would you recommended getting an OEM bracket if there is such a thing? Joe

62Jeff

Joe I think you'll have to order that from a corvette parts supplier. I don't believe it is still available from GM.

Corvette Central has it - part number 301005

Zip Corvette has it - part number M-1100

Paragon has it - part number 536 (and they note it is a GM Restoration part)

All are about the same price at under $90

Just be sure to buy one for a 61-62, as it has the notch in the top for the water pump fitting which runs to the expansion tank.

stingray6507

Thanks Jeff. Appreciate the info. Joe