Al T

So..... I pulled the shifter out and rebuilt it because of the problems I described in this thread.......

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...age-issue.html

I reinstalled it yesterday and I still have the same problem. Shifter gets stuck and won't shift into forward gears. Will move into the reverse position and the reverse rod will move no problem. I'm now thinking it's just the way the 1-4 shift rods are adjusted. I took this picture this evening of the forward shift rods in the "stuck" position. Does anything stick out as wrong........... other then the reverse switch shield on the wrong mounting bolt....... at least the reverse lights work now

Dan Hampton

Those rods look perilously close to one another or is that just the angle of the photo? The one jam nut on 1-2 shifter rod is not tight. Have you observed the action of the shifter rods from below (someone else sitting in the car doing the shifting)?

Al T

Thanks for the response.

That's just the angle of the picture. The lock nut is where it was when I pulled it out. I wanted to put it back in exactly as it was when I removed it. I'm just thinking the rods aren't adjusted correctly and are working against each other....... I'm not sure if that's even possible, but this is becoming a little frustrating.

I haven't had a chance to have someone work the shifter while I'm underneath the car..... my wife may pull out the jack stands as she wants to drive it. I was just hoping someone would see something glaringly wrong regarding the alignment of the shift rods.

nassau66427

Looks like you're in 3rd gear now. Also, it looks like you have the 3/4 shift lever installed backwards. It should be installed so as to position the 3/4 rod away from the side cover.

Can't really see the 1/2 lever, but that one should be installed so as to position the 1/2 rod in towards the side cover.

Dan Hampton

.

My thinking as well, but as I see the pictures I may be wrong about that. Again, those shifter rods look too close.

Al T

Could that cause the binding? That was the way it was installed before I took the shifter out for rebuild. I'll flip it tomorrow evening.

Thanks for all the comments.

Astrodokk

Al,
Here's a pic I found on the forum. It shows the proper configuration of the levers. I believe you need to be in neutral to make it easier to adjust. I don't think the tranny's in neutral in the photo.
It helped me when I reinstalled my tranny and I hope it helps you.

Al T

Thanks. It's funny though, the 3-4 lever is installed the same as on mine, yet others have said this is backwards??

I also notice according to this I've installed the reverse switch backwards....... aaargh!

abe g

great photo! Who is the manufacturer of these parts? What year corvette does this fit? Regards, Abe G

bonehead2

I agree with AL. Which way is correct?.

66since71

Have you run the adjustment proceedure from the shop manual? It requires that you remove the shift linkage from the levers on the side of the transmission, block the shifter and each lever in the neutral position (a simple gage block has to fabbed for the shfiter), and then adjust the rods so the pins fit eaily in the holes in the levers. If I remember right, this will expose any levers that have been put on backwards. It should make the shifts quite smooth..

Harry

Al T

Thanks for the response. I haven't tried that. What do you mean by a gauge block?

Al T

66BlkBB

Look at the photo Astrodokk put on this post. At the lower part of the shifter body you will see a slot that is used to insert the gage block. This will assist you in aligning the shifter arms so that you can adjust the shifter rods to get the correct length and pattern for the shifter.

Vet65te

While the Hurst Shifters use a 1/4-inch diameter pin (or drill bit) to line up the shifter in the neutral gate, the factory Muncie Shifter used a different type of gauge block. Here's a pic of mine.

In a nutshell, it's about 5/8-inch wide, about 2 3/4-3-inches long and made of .030 steel. All the vendors sell this gauge but they won't have that little 'bend' in them like mine does. When I put an original Muncie shifter back into my '65 I found the 3-inch long gauge was a bit too long and ran into interference with the trans tunnel so...the bend allowed me to get it inserted into the shifter.
Mike T.

Dan Hampton

I think you really need to get under the car and watch the action of the levers while someone shifts through the gate.

Al T

OK....... last stupid question, I hope.

How should the arms be orientated to be in neutral. I'm assuming I need the tranny in neutral before I pull off the shifter arms. Since the shifter right now is jammed, I'll have to do this from under the car. I've got the front of the car on jackstands and don't really want to jack the back of the car up to check if it's in neutral.

Out of curiosity..... if the linkages are WAY out of adjustment....... would it cause my issue?

Vet65te

Al T - When you say 'arms' are you asking about the shift plates bolted to the trans? If so, they're almost sticking straight up when they are in neutral. You can disconnect the shifter while one of the shift plates is in gear, the trans won't care. They'll just fall free. Then use that gauge block to lock the shifter in the neutral gate and 'with the shift plates both in neutral (straight up or near to it), then bring the shift rods up to meet them as described earlier by 66Since71.
Before you get to this adjustment, are you pretty sure you don't have any issues with the trans or clutch linkage and also, was the shifter working fine for a while before this shifting issue started up? When you put this 'kit' into the shifter, were you satisfied that it all went together correctly and no question marks?
If everything else checks out, go for the shifter rod adjustment.
Mike T.

66BlkBB

Al,

Make sure all three arms are out of the shifter levers that are bolted to the tranny. Move the arms as you slide the gauge into the slot. You will feel the gauge move further into the shifter body as the slots align. The last one should be the reverse rod. The gauge should go all the way through the shifter so that it locks the arms in place. If you can move the reverse arm the gauge is not seated yet. Once you have that done you can then lenghten or shorten the rods as needed to allow the shifter to function correctly. Make sure that you have the levers on correctly. I have screwed this up more than once so I know it can be done very easily. If you have an assembley manual, it would help in the correct orientation of the shifter levers. I hope this helps.

Steve

66jack

block your rear tires before you do anything else

jack

joescvette

Does it matter what holes you use? You are using the second hole from the top and in the picture they are using the first hole from the top on the shift plates, bolted to the trans. Joe