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pilot bushing help

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Old 03-01-2010, 12:40 PM
  #21  
Desertvette
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CJS is correct. Have run into this problem myself and used a Dorman conversion bearing for use with powergide crankshafts and manual trannys. The conversion bearing are approx .029 smaller.
I wrote the P/n down in my parts book but I believe it has been superceded.
Anyway a google search came up with Dorman P/N 690034 .593x1.065
The standard being .593x1.095.
There is also a bushing for turboglide transmissions which uses a 1.073 bushing and is Dorman P/n 690035.
Taking a measurement is your best bet to obtain the right bushing.
Lol
Bob
Old 03-01-2010, 12:52 PM
  #22  
67L36Driver
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Originally Posted by Desertvette
CJS is correct. Have run into this problem myself and used a Dorman conversion bearing for use with powergide crankshafts and manual trannys. The conversion bearing are approx .029 smaller.
I wrote the P/n down in my parts book but I believe it has been superceded.
Anyway a google search came up with Dorman P/N 690034 .593x1.065
The standard being .593x1.095.
There is also a bushing for turboglide transmissions which uses a 1.073 bushing and is Dorman P/n 690035.
Taking a measurement is your best bet to obtain the right bushing.
Lol
Bob
Long time ago I had to come up with a pilot bushing for a 235" P.G. engine I was installing in place of a 216" standard shift in a '53. Chucked the standard bushing on an adjustable reamer to grip the bore and using a drill press turning slowly I filed the thing down to fit. Took a good while.

What an 18 yr old will do, I did.
Old 03-01-2010, 01:29 PM
  #23  
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1Redctoo,

Straight from Corvette Enthusiast's April issue...an article on clutch, pressure plate, bell housing AND pilot bushings by John Hinckley (JOHNZ).

"You want a bushing made from 100-percent Oilite bronze, which won't attract a magnet. GM #3752487, #10125896, NAPA #BK-6151161, and Federal-Mogul #PB-656-HD are known to be made from the correct material."



Jim
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:24 PM
  #24  
1Redctoo
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Default bushing

Guess I should have added what tranny I have . It's the original muncie 4 speed . Numbers look right for the car .
The bushing is a Napa bk-6151161 .
Now I'm wondering if maybe the crank was changed somewhere along the line . Maybe a PG crank was used during this rebuild by mistake !
I'll try to remove the bushing soon using one or two of the methods suggested above . Then it's off to my machinist to see what can be done .
Old 03-01-2010, 08:38 PM
  #25  
MikeM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Guess I should have added what tranny I have . It's the original muncie 4 speed . Numbers look right for the car .
The bushing is a Napa bk-6151161 .
Now I'm wondering if maybe the crank was changed somewhere along the line . Maybe a PG crank was used during this rebuild by mistake !
I'll try to remove the bushing soon using one or two of the methods suggested above . Then it's off to my machinist to see what can be done .
Measure the bushing hole in the crank as suggested and give that measurement to your machinist. If he's been around the block a time or two, he can advise the correct approach. I don't think he could make a recommendation without that measurement.
Old 03-02-2010, 10:31 AM
  #26  
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Going from memory, the oillite brass pilot bushing should have a 0.002 to 0.003 inch interference with the hole in the crank flange. That is, the oillite bushing is 0.002 to 0.003 inches larger in diameter than the flange hole. I also believe that the flange side of this bushing has a small taper or bevel edge to help in assembly.

If needed, you can machine down the outer diameter of the oillite bushing to get the correct fit. DO NOT machine or alter the inside diameter or it will screw up (close off) the oil pores in the bushing which is not good.

Also make sure the new bushing slides easily on your trans input shaft nose before you install it. Tools are available to install, but most folks use an old trans input shaft or make their own. I made one from an oak dowel(s). One slightly larger than the bushing OD to pound on and a small second one epoxied or nailed in to just fit the ID and keep things centered.

Larry

Last edited by Powershift; 03-02-2010 at 11:02 AM.
Old 10-02-2010, 09:13 PM
  #27  
Chicago Pete
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Originally Posted by kerrmudgeon
You should take it out and check it anyway. Use the old mechanics trick of packing the hole with heavy grease (wheel bearing) and using an old input shaft or anything of same diameter, start tapping it into the hole, put in more grease as you need it, and amazingly the grease pushes out the bushing. Then get the right one!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is an older thread but still a great trick.

Just did this and it worked like a charm getting my pilot bearing out.

High five to Kerrmugeon.
Old 10-02-2010, 09:20 PM
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1snake
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Originally Posted by Chicago Pete
This is an older thread but still a great trick.

Just did this and it worked like a charm getting my pilot bearing out.

High five to Kerrmugeon.

I take at tap one size larger than the hole in the bushing and run it in. When it bottoms out, the bushing is pushed out. Takes less than 1 min. with no mess or clean up required.

Jim
Old 10-02-2010, 09:23 PM
  #29  
Chicago Pete
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Originally Posted by 1snake
I take at tap one size larger than the hole in the bushing and run it in. When it bottoms out, the bushing is pushed out. Takes less than 1 min. with no mess or clean up required.

Jim
Another good tip.
Old 10-03-2010, 06:42 AM
  #30  
CJS
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You don't even need a tap. A plain bolt with clearance flutes and a tapered nose ground onto it works fine for less than a $1.
Old 10-03-2010, 08:42 AM
  #31  
Chicago Pete
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The cool thing about Kerrmugeon's grease trick is that it did not ruin the bearing.
I was installing a new one and got it started a little crooked.
I didn't want to clamp down on it with channel locks and pry it out.



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