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Old 12-22-2009, 09:49 PM   #1
Hitch
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Default Windshield weatherstriping gaps after installation

Well I'm starting to go back together on the interior of the car and the windshield went in today with the help of a friend that installs glass. It took 3 tries to get it close to what I would call acceptable. I ended up using two sets of the lower trim clips as the ones from CA were sprung after one try of the clips. I wanted to see if we could install the windshield with the lower trim installed.

Well if anyone that has posted that they have done this please post up as to how you get the windshield in as we couldn't figure it out. So I pulled the lower trim out of the clips and the windshield went right in... Well the only problem was the at the lower corners the WS wanted to pull under the windshield and create a gap. So out it came. We put it back in and the gap was better but not great. I was okay with it and tried to put the trim on and some of the clips were sprung. So out with the windshield again.

I had another set from LIC that I had ordered previously for another project and I use put them in. Now the windshield is in for the 3rd time and I'm still not thrilled about the gaps in the lower corners. The trim fits great now and all the clips are fully engaged.


Does anyone have any suggestions on how to

1. Get the WS to lay down in the corners

2. What type of gasket material to use to fill the gap.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

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I have looked back thru the archives for an answer and I unfortunately I have come up empty. If my search skills missed it I would be grateful if someone could please repost this information. Thanks

Dave
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:57 PM   #2
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Is that a new windshield? Maybe it's not made just right. On my coupe, I went through three different rear glass before one was found that fit right. And that one was an OEM glass piece. The Pilkington's didn't fit very well at all.
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skids View Post
Is that a new windshield? Maybe it's not made just right. On my coupe, I went through three different rear glass before one was found that fit right. And that one was an OEM glass piece. The Pilkington's didn't fit very well at all.
It's a PPG windshield so I expect that it's a okay. Not that just because it's a PPG that it's right but I hope that's not the problem. Thanks.

Dave
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:00 AM   #4
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Use 3M 08509 between the rubber and car and 3M 08633(flowgrade) between the glass and rubber.

After the flow grade gets pumped in the rubber, spray glass cleaner all the way around and use a razor blade to clean the bulk of it up. Windshield butyl will take up the rest of it and when your all done, it will look great.
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtopman View Post
Use 3M 08509 between the rubber and car and 3M 08633(flowgrade) between the glass and rubber.

After the flow grade gets pumped in the rubber, spray glass cleaner all the way around and use a razor blade to clean the bulk of it up. Windshield butyl will take up the rest of it and when your all done, it will look great.
Thanks,

I thought the 08633 was the one I need re: a post a few weeks ago about this. I had tried to get it from Car Quest and they don't even have it available. Thanks for posting it again, I called Napa and I'll pick it up this afternoon.

Dave
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:08 AM   #6
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Suggest you get a set of molding clips from Paragon - theirs are the ONLY ones that work.
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitch View Post
Thanks,

I thought the 08633 was the one I need re: a post a few weeks ago about this. I had tried to get it from Car Quest and they don't even have it available. Thanks for posting it again, I called Napa and I'll pick it up this afternoon.

Dave
It requires a special gun to utilize it also.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:45 PM   #8
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It requires a special gun to utilize it also.
Just for the record.. The 08633 comes in a pint can and not a tube or otherwise. I think that I can use a syringe to use it though. I think that the 08634 is the one that requires the special gun after some further research.

Is there another that I might be able to find?

Dave
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:59 PM   #9
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Okay I know there are lots of people that have replaced their windshields. This can't be that common but I've looked at my father's vette his is actually worse. I know Garner and Batchelor have had their windshields replaced. Am I missing why the lower corners are pulling under the glass and causing a gap. Please I don't want to leave it this way if I can fix it now. Thanks.

Dave
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:47 AM   #10
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Hey Hitch, I'm not trying to steal your post but I put my windshield in this past summer and its a pilkingtons. I noticed after installation that the weatherstripping is protruding out in some locations mainly on the bottom of the windshield. The thing leaks and I plan on taking it out. Is this because its a pilkingtons? Do I need to put 3M 08633 between the glass and the weatherstripping? Will this act as another sealer? And as for the back glass, Any suggestions on putting the back glass in. I put the back glass in but overall I'm not happy with the way it turned out and I am thinking about redoing it as well. Thanks guys.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:28 AM   #11
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Did a little seaching for you, this is what I came up with:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...tallation.html

Hope this helps. The Goop soap in the pinchweld channel seems like it would do a better job than the soapy water method.
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:17 AM   #12
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Dave,

Why did you pull the glass and change it? My 1967 got a nasty chip and I thought I would have to deal with this S#$t but a local guy fixed it. Are you using new rubber ( I am sure you are but have to ask) is it really that hard to install? Let us know. Your DIY had been a helper to me in the past. I also look forward to seeing the color change.

Cheers and happy NEW YEARS

oWEN

Last edited by vintagecorvette; 12-31-2009 at 02:23 AM.
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:29 AM   #13
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Default windshield

I had the same problem, I put a small !! amount of black normal winshield sealer from a caulk tube in the weatherstrip first, put the glass in the weatherstrip, put non hardening sealent in the frame, pull the glass in, in the lower corners where the gaps are it is because there is to much weatherstrip on the inside of the car, it takes strong finger tips but you pull the WS around from the outside pushing in on the glass and push the WS out from the inside. you are trying to roll the WS to the outside. keep doing this until you get the WS flat on the glass. it takes a lot of work keep at it. you don't want gaps in the WS outside, no amount of sealer will fix it, you can't use soap, you can't use silicone, After I get the WS set I put some more non hardening sealent at the bottom before I put on the chrome, and that is the way it was done at the factory. I took alot of very original cars apart. Good Luck
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:11 AM   #14
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Going to change the rubber around the windshield and all of the clips wich i got from Eckler so i really hope they fit my car. I plan on trying to install the window with most of the trim in. Usually we do that on cars up here.But if that works on the Corvette i dont know.

So i follow this thread to learn



Quote:
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Suggest you get a set of molding clips from Paragon - theirs are the ONLY ones that work.

Last edited by TheSaint; 12-31-2009 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:31 AM   #15
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I guess from reading some of the other threads I still don't know what I'm doing wrong with the corners pulling under and causing a gap on the outside. I was looking at my fathers and his is the same way but it can't be right for there to be a gap in the corners. It seems from some of the posts that others have had this problem too. The one thread referenced Midyear1 talks about the poster using a tool ( I suspect it's a cotter pin puller) to walk the ws into the channel verses roping it. I used glass cleaner for my lube maybe it's not slick enough to allow the lip to go over the edge.

Thanks guys. I'm just trying to get this right. I don't want to put the dash back in until I finish this so I don't mess anything up.

Dave
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:37 AM   #16
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Suppose that you have a new window rubber seal?
That usually makes it a bit more difficult to get the window in place


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitch View Post
I guess from reading some of the other threads I still don't know what I'm doing wrong with the corners pulling under and causing a gap on the outside. I was looking at my fathers and his is the same way but it can't be right for there to be a gap in the corners. It seems from some of the posts that others have had this problem too. The one thread referenced Midyear1 talks about the poster using a tool ( I suspect it's a cotter pin puller) to walk the ws into the channel verses roping it. I used glass cleaner for my lube maybe it's not slick enough to allow the lip to go over the edge.

Thanks guys. I'm just trying to get this right. I don't want to put the dash back in until I finish this so I don't mess anything up.

Dave
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Just for the record.. The 08633 comes in a pint can and not a tube or otherwise.
Yes, the 08633 comes in a pint can. But how ever, flow grade was also made in tubes that you used a caulking gun to get it out of the tube with(I do believe its 3M 08634). Go to your friendly neighborhood glass shop and ask them if they have any flow grade in a tube. If your ever in Charlotte, I have a gun and can of flow grade that you could use as long as you promised to return it.

If you cant find the stuff in 3M, look into the 'CRL' line of glazing goodies also found in a glass store.
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtopman View Post
Yes, the 08633 comes in a pint can. But how ever, flow grade was also made in tubes that you used a caulking gun to get it out of the tube with(I do believe its 3M 08634). Go to your friendly neighborhood glass shop and ask them if they have any flow grade in a tube. If your ever in Charlotte, I have a gun and can of flow grade that you could use as long as you promised to return it.

If you cant find the stuff in 3M, look into the 'CRL' line of glazing goodies also found in a glass store.
Does the Window Weld ever harden or does it stay soft and sticky forever?

BTW we go to the AutoFair every spring. I'll most likely have the Cobra on our spot for sale. We are on the exit of turn 2 against the wall. Come by and have a beer with us.

Dave
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitch View Post
Does the Window Weld ever harden or does it stay soft and sticky forever?

BTW we go to the AutoFair every spring. I'll most likely have the Cobra on our spot for sale. We are on the exit of turn 2 against the wall. Come by and have a beer with us.

Dave
Flow grade does not get hard like urethane, but only after some time does it really set up, but it stays pliable(soft). When flow grade was used to seal the tops of butyl set only windshields many years ago, it was still a small mess to deal with.

If you go the tube route, cut a very small tip size and pump(fill) it in between the windshield weatherstrip and glass so you fill the small gap. Press the weatherstrip back down to the glass to make the excess push out. Spray glass cleaner(and be generous with it)on the flow grade that oozed out and with a brand new razor blade, clean the flow grade off of the windshield(the glass cleaner will help it come off easier) and just keep doing this until all the flow grade is cleaned up off of the glass. To get it off of the rubber, wipe it up with a rag to get the bulk of it off and then wad up a ball of new windshield butyl and 'pat' the flow grade with it and the butyl will pick it up clean as a whistle off the rubber. Trust me, this all works.

What spot number, I like the spring Auto Fair.
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtopman View Post
Flow grade does not get hard like urethane, but only after some time does it really set up, but it stays pliable(soft). When flow grade was used to seal the tops of butyl set only windshields many years ago, it was still a small mess to deal with.

If you go the tube route, cut a very small tip size and pump(fill) it in between the windshield weatherstrip and glass so you fill the small gap. Press the weatherstrip back down to the glass to make the excess push out. Spray glass cleaner(and be generous with it)on the flow grade that oozed out and with a brand new razor blade, clean the flow grade off of the windshield(the glass cleaner will help it come off easier) and just keep doing this until all the flow grade is cleaned up off of the glass. To get it off of the rubber, wipe it up with a rag to get the bulk of it off and then wad up a ball of new windshield butyl and 'pat' the flow grade with it and the butyl will pick it up clean as a whistle off the rubber. Trust me, this all works.

What spot number, I like the spring Auto Fair.
With the flow grade will it stay so soft that when cleaning the windshield after it sets? Also is there a way to get the weatherstripping to pull back so it seats better? Or will I have to pull the windshield again? Thanks

Dave
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:45 PM
 
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