Bradd Penn Oil
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Bradd Penn Oil
Just wondering what oil you folks burn, I have a 327-350 horse motor I burn 15-50 mobil one synthetic, a mechanic told me they pulled the zinc out of mobil one and I should go with Bradd Penn green racing oil, also said these oils today could make your cam go flat on new break in motors. Thanks Ditch.
#2
Team Owner
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run shell rotail oil. best thing you can do.
#6
Burning Brakes
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A large number of the Honda racing engines we build have slider valvetrains, which are subject to wear with the valve spring loads we must use.
On the Mobil1 front, we switched to their 0-40 a few years ago and it works well. This particular oil was originally packaged as a motorcycle oil, and today Mobil calls it a "Euro" oil. We have had good luck using it in most applications.
The Shell Rotella oil isn't what it used to be. The best oil we've found for preventing wear in extreme applications is the Brad Penn. In fact, it's solved problems where we thought DLC coatings were going to be the only solution. I recommend the Brad Penn very highly for all non-roller valvetrain applications.
On the Mobil1 front, we switched to their 0-40 a few years ago and it works well. This particular oil was originally packaged as a motorcycle oil, and today Mobil calls it a "Euro" oil. We have had good luck using it in most applications.
The Shell Rotella oil isn't what it used to be. The best oil we've found for preventing wear in extreme applications is the Brad Penn. In fact, it's solved problems where we thought DLC coatings were going to be the only solution. I recommend the Brad Penn very highly for all non-roller valvetrain applications.
#7
Melting Slicks
#8
Burning Brakes
Never heard of it. Did a google and the results seem impressive. Doesn't seem too high priced. Found one site where you could get 12 qts for about $36. That's about what I pay for castrol high mileage. Can't seem to find where it's sold other than on the internet. Seems like you wouldn't have to add ZZDP plus. So it might actually be cheaper.
#12
Oh Boy! An oil discussion.
If the old postings don't die and go to the web masters heaven, you will find hours of oil postings in search.
Everyone has an opinion and you can't get them to change their conclusions-so here's a thought.
It doesn't matter what brand of oil you use if you only drive a few hundred miles a year. Just stay away from any oil with the "sunburst" logo on the label.
It does matter what oil you use if you drive several thousands of mile per year. If you do, use an oil like Brad Penn or Gibbs Racing. You won't go wrong and your flat tappet engine will purr.
Everyone has an opinion and you can't get them to change their conclusions-so here's a thought.
It doesn't matter what brand of oil you use if you only drive a few hundred miles a year. Just stay away from any oil with the "sunburst" logo on the label.
It does matter what oil you use if you drive several thousands of mile per year. If you do, use an oil like Brad Penn or Gibbs Racing. You won't go wrong and your flat tappet engine will purr.
#13
Drifting
If the old postings don't die and go to the web masters heaven, you will find hours of oil postings in search.
Everyone has an opinion and you can't get them to change their conclusions-so here's a thought.
It doesn't matter what brand of oil you use if you only drive a few hundred miles a year. Just stay away from any oil with the "sunburst" logo on the label.
It does matter what oil you use if you drive several thousands of mile per year. If you do, use an oil like Brad Penn or Gibbs Racing. You won't go wrong and your flat tappet engine will purr.
Everyone has an opinion and you can't get them to change their conclusions-so here's a thought.
It doesn't matter what brand of oil you use if you only drive a few hundred miles a year. Just stay away from any oil with the "sunburst" logo on the label.
It does matter what oil you use if you drive several thousands of mile per year. If you do, use an oil like Brad Penn or Gibbs Racing. You won't go wrong and your flat tappet engine will purr.
#14
Melting Slicks
#16
Burning Brakes
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As I said before, the Shell Rotella isn't as good as it was two years ago. And, that's the reason it's has lost favor with those of us who build engines with slider valvetrains for a living....or at least those of us who offer guarantees.
#18
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#19
Burning Brakes
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Our race and street engines are unconditionally guaranteed. You break one, or have a problem, and I fly it back, and fix or replace it at my expense. Our machine work and attention to detail is what made Honda Research and Development our largest customer.
We've spent a lot of time and money testing and researching oils here, and we don't take any chances on our engines.
We tune and break-in each and every engine we build on our dyno prior to doing full pulls. Since switching from Rotella to Brad Penn, the reduction in wear during break-in has been measurable, but then again, our measuring, machining, and fitting tolerance is .00005", so perhaps it doesn't apply to most of engines here.
We've spent a lot of time and money testing and researching oils here, and we don't take any chances on our engines.
We tune and break-in each and every engine we build on our dyno prior to doing full pulls. Since switching from Rotella to Brad Penn, the reduction in wear during break-in has been measurable, but then again, our measuring, machining, and fitting tolerance is .00005", so perhaps it doesn't apply to most of engines here.
#20
Melting Slicks
Not to be rude...but perhaps HONDA engines have different needs.
All I can say is that I went with Rotella T oil three years ago for my 427 BB and I cannot say I have any complaints at all...and I average anywhere from 9 to 11 thousand miles a yr on it....
All I can say is that I went with Rotella T oil three years ago for my 427 BB and I cannot say I have any complaints at all...and I average anywhere from 9 to 11 thousand miles a yr on it....