Gas Sending Unit
10-30-2009, 02:38 PM
#2
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You don't need to drop the gas tank to remove/replace the sending unit, but it helps to drop the spare tire tub for better access to it. I'm assuming you're asking about a midyear - your post didn't give the year, and there's no information in your profile. 
10-30-2009, 02:49 PM
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Remove the two long forward tray hanger bolts to drop the tray, then the two bolts that attach the rear hanger bolt bracket through the tub to the frame, then the four bolts that attach the tub to the tank support and the frame.
10-30-2009, 02:54 PM
#5
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sednign unit
Thanks John. I do hav e a manual. I'll have to bring the car over to my friend who has a lift in his car and then buy the sending unit, cam etc. Have a great day.
Bill
Bill
10-30-2009, 04:45 PM
#6
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Very easy to do this! You should have no troubles. Do not need that special tool either. Just use a drift pin type punch and tap the ring around. As I said easy job!
10-30-2009, 06:10 PM
#7
Race Director
A lift is not required........but is very helpful.
You need to make sure to buy the best sending unit available. This would be the GM/Delco one...which is expensive. Many (almost all others) have problems with not reading correctly after awhile, or not sealing around the electrical connections. Check the archives for details.
You may be better off having your existing unit repaired, especially if it is original. But this takes a few weeks and you would not be able to drive your car during this time.
Something for you to consider.
Larry
EDIT: Delco Part Number #FLS1111 and/or GM #19180447. Cost about $160.
You need to make sure to buy the best sending unit available. This would be the GM/Delco one...which is expensive. Many (almost all others) have problems with not reading correctly after awhile, or not sealing around the electrical connections. Check the archives for details.
You may be better off having your existing unit repaired, especially if it is original. But this takes a few weeks and you would not be able to drive your car during this time.
Something for you to consider.
Larry
EDIT: Delco Part Number #FLS1111 and/or GM #19180447. Cost about $160.
Last edited by Powershift; 10-30-2009 at 06:23 PM.
10-31-2009, 07:26 AM
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Powershift/ Larry, who repairs these units? I have a spare original that I probably should have reworked...
10-31-2009, 10:09 AM
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10-31-2009, 10:48 AM
#12
Race Director
A lot of folks have installed the cheaper units and are satisfied......but many are not. In my opinion, this is a job I do not want a problem or to redo. That's why I made the suggestion to get the best.
There have also been reports that some of the fuel senders have a thinner o-ring and/or metal cam, which causes a poor seal and a gasoline drip/leak. You want a good tight seal here. Use some oil or vaseline when installing the o-ring. JohnZ says the factory guys used to keep the o-rings in a bucket of oil prior to installing just for this reason.
Larry
10-31-2009, 11:07 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
Not to start a pizzin' match but I just replaced mine and did a lot of research on which one to buy because I only wanted to do it once. I called LICS and several others asking which one to buy, Delco brand or an import. I was told that they are both the same and you're paying a premium for the Delco box. Because of the price difference, very few buy the Delco one and most suppliers don't even carry them. They don't have any reported problems with the cheaper (in price only) one.
Jim
Jim
10-31-2009, 11:15 AM
#14
Tech Contributor
There are at least 2 different manufacturers for the sending units.
I purchased my first sending unit for my 65 from Corvette Central. It shorted out internally within a few hundred miles. The black, coated strap that carries current in the sender abraded on a sharp corner of the sending unit assembly and wore the coating off.
I purchased my next sending unit from Long Island Corvette Supply. It was a different design. It leaked the instant I installed it, at the wire terminals. I had to remove it, and use a deep small socket on the "push nuts" along with a hammer to whack the nuts on farther, in order to create a seal.
No matter which sending unit you purchase, make sure the coated strap is not too close to any other parts, and make sure the wire terminals are sealed properly.
I purchased my first sending unit for my 65 from Corvette Central. It shorted out internally within a few hundred miles. The black, coated strap that carries current in the sender abraded on a sharp corner of the sending unit assembly and wore the coating off.
I purchased my next sending unit from Long Island Corvette Supply. It was a different design. It leaked the instant I installed it, at the wire terminals. I had to remove it, and use a deep small socket on the "push nuts" along with a hammer to whack the nuts on farther, in order to create a seal.
No matter which sending unit you purchase, make sure the coated strap is not too close to any other parts, and make sure the wire terminals are sealed properly.
10-31-2009, 11:20 AM
#15
Race Director
Not to start a pizzin' match but I just replaced mine and did a lot of research on which one to buy because I only wanted to do it once. I called LICS and several others asking which one to buy, Delco brand or an import. I was told that they are both the same and you're paying a premium for the Delco box. Because of the price difference, very few buy the Delco one and most suppliers don't even carry them. They don't have any reported problems with the cheaper (in price only) one.
Jim
Jim
I checked the LICS catalog, and it does not appear that they carry the GM/Delco one I mentioned above. Also checked with Paragon.....they carry one that they call OEM (probably old stock) for around $250.
They also carry one called "import" for around $75, with no GM/Delco part numbers.If it were me, I would pull my old unit and try and get it rebuilt. JohnZ posted the names of two companies that do this work. There are others......listed in Hemmings.....but the two names JohnZ mentioned are known to do excellent work.
It's now really up to Bill what he wants to do. He has a few options and opinions.
There are a number of posts in the archives that discuss the problems and successes others have had with this same issue. Bill can checkout if interested. Probably just search under "fuel sender" or something similar.
Larry
I didn't know that was an option when I replaced mine. I did keep it so if I do have a problem, that's definately an avenue to explore.
10-31-2009, 04:44 PM
#17
Drifting
Is there any need to do any pre-adjustment(s) on float arm, before final install?
My friend bought one from LICS and after installed it appears to read low. The tank is literally over 1/4 full yet gauge reads near empty.
btw-All the gauges have just been rebuilt by reputible refurbisher, so we know it isn't that. We are a little suspect of possible wires or connectors.......
Thanks
RK
My friend bought one from LICS and after installed it appears to read low. The tank is literally over 1/4 full yet gauge reads near empty.
btw-All the gauges have just been rebuilt by reputible refurbisher, so we know it isn't that. We are a little suspect of possible wires or connectors.......
Thanks
RK
10-31-2009, 08:12 PM
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RoadKing96 - these units have a potentiometer built in them connected to the float, swinging from 0 to 90 ohms... If they are not scaled - the will give false readings... ie read 3/4 against a full tank... or scaled the wrong way to what your friend see's
11-01-2009, 09:29 AM
#19
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Sending Unit vs. gas guage
Is there away to determine if the sending unit isn't working properly or if the gas guage is at fault? My gas gauge always stays at half a tank when the car is running or not
11-01-2009, 09:39 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...rFuelGauge.pdf
Jim