Just Finished Borgeson Power Steering Conversion
#1
Instructor
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Location: Barnstable Mass
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Just Finished Borgeson Power Steering Conversion
Went with a Borgeson power steering conversion kit purchased through Summit. The fact that the gear housing has been machined for a precise fit was big factor. Spoke at length with their reps to be sure to get the right components, and the kit was drop shipped to my house in three days.
I have posted pictures in an album under my user CP. The components were first rate, the steering gear is waranteed for five years and the installation went pretty smoothly. As is evident in the photos, the alignment of steering gear input to column shaft was right on. This had been a big worry of mine, in addition to header clearance, but neither was a problem. The header tube is very close to the box, but doesn't touch under engine torque or during driving. I put a double layer of pipe wrap around the nearest tube, and some reflective heat shielding on the lower part of the box just to keep it cooler. Also reflective tubes over lower portions of hoses. The headers are Sandersons 1 3/4".
I replaced all four tie rod ends while I was under the car. I don't have a lift, so the installation was done on my back on the garage floor. with no trouble, so it's not difficult.
Three lessons learned. One: as shipped, the drag link end ball joint was way too loose and this gave a lot of steering wheel free travel. It is easily adjusted by means of a threaded plug, but don't try to use a screwdriver. Use a large flat screw driver bit with a socket wrench. Tightened it up and there is now zero free play. Make sure to pump in grease through the fitting before you set the tension.
Two: The hoses provided are both 3000 psi pressure rated, and while necessary on the pressure side of the pump, the return hose needn't be. The hose is nearly impossible to slip over the bubble flare on the pump return tube and the inflexibility puts too much stress on the tube which is only brazed to the pump reservoir. This return hose should be a good quality but more flexible type.
Three: Check the clearance between your clutch pedal rod end and the lower corner of the gear housing. I had to file a bit off the corner to get clearance.
The before and after of this modification is incredible! My alignment man, who has installed more than a few rack & pinion conversions in C2's, considers this conversion far superior in terms of steering feel, simplicity of installation and appearance. All the uncertainty and lack of feel that I had with the stock power steering system is gone.
I have posted pictures in an album under my user CP. The components were first rate, the steering gear is waranteed for five years and the installation went pretty smoothly. As is evident in the photos, the alignment of steering gear input to column shaft was right on. This had been a big worry of mine, in addition to header clearance, but neither was a problem. The header tube is very close to the box, but doesn't touch under engine torque or during driving. I put a double layer of pipe wrap around the nearest tube, and some reflective heat shielding on the lower part of the box just to keep it cooler. Also reflective tubes over lower portions of hoses. The headers are Sandersons 1 3/4".
I replaced all four tie rod ends while I was under the car. I don't have a lift, so the installation was done on my back on the garage floor. with no trouble, so it's not difficult.
Three lessons learned. One: as shipped, the drag link end ball joint was way too loose and this gave a lot of steering wheel free travel. It is easily adjusted by means of a threaded plug, but don't try to use a screwdriver. Use a large flat screw driver bit with a socket wrench. Tightened it up and there is now zero free play. Make sure to pump in grease through the fitting before you set the tension.
Two: The hoses provided are both 3000 psi pressure rated, and while necessary on the pressure side of the pump, the return hose needn't be. The hose is nearly impossible to slip over the bubble flare on the pump return tube and the inflexibility puts too much stress on the tube which is only brazed to the pump reservoir. This return hose should be a good quality but more flexible type.
Three: Check the clearance between your clutch pedal rod end and the lower corner of the gear housing. I had to file a bit off the corner to get clearance.
The before and after of this modification is incredible! My alignment man, who has installed more than a few rack & pinion conversions in C2's, considers this conversion far superior in terms of steering feel, simplicity of installation and appearance. All the uncertainty and lack of feel that I had with the stock power steering system is gone.
#4
Nice job Patrick. I have been saying for years the steering box is the single best mod I have done to my coupe.
I always suggest slotting the cross shafts on the upper a arms so you can slide them back and dial in 4 to 5 degrees positive caster and it really makes the car drive that much better with the new box.
Jeff
I always suggest slotting the cross shafts on the upper a arms so you can slide them back and dial in 4 to 5 degrees positive caster and it really makes the car drive that much better with the new box.
Jeff
#10
Melting Slicks
I'll echo the "nice job Patrick"! Thanks too for sharing the pictures.
Its hard to tell from the pics, but did you actually have to shorten the steering shaft, as some have suggested?
I noticed the new bolts for mounting the assembly are not carriage bolts. Tires can rub on the bolts at full lock and I always liked the fact that they rubbed on a smooth bolt head. Do the factory bolts fit the new box?
Thanks again for the pics
Harry
edit: And it looks like you may have had to cut some on the inner fender? (it looks very close)
Its hard to tell from the pics, but did you actually have to shorten the steering shaft, as some have suggested?
I noticed the new bolts for mounting the assembly are not carriage bolts. Tires can rub on the bolts at full lock and I always liked the fact that they rubbed on a smooth bolt head. Do the factory bolts fit the new box?
Thanks again for the pics
Harry
edit: And it looks like you may have had to cut some on the inner fender? (it looks very close)
Last edited by 66since71; 08-27-2009 at 11:37 AM.
#11
Race Director
Five Window,
I agree this is the mod every C2 owner should do, the upgrade in the steering precision is just incredible. I see that your kit included a rag joint, whereas the Corvette Steering unit I used has a u-joint instead. Any idea of why there is this difference?
Lou
I agree this is the mod every C2 owner should do, the upgrade in the steering precision is just incredible. I see that your kit included a rag joint, whereas the Corvette Steering unit I used has a u-joint instead. Any idea of why there is this difference?
Lou
#12
Race Director
Could you repost a pic of this mod? I can't quite picture it in my mind, and recall that you once posted a pic.
Lou
#13
The next one I do, I will mill 5/16 of an inch and hopefully get 5 degrees easily.
Jeff
#15
Race Director
Jeff,
That's the pic I remember, thanks for posting it again. If I recall correctly, this will add a substantial amount of steering "feel" -- which is something the original setup and the Jeep box pretty much lack -- correct?
Lou
That's the pic I remember, thanks for posting it again. If I recall correctly, this will add a substantial amount of steering "feel" -- which is something the original setup and the Jeep box pretty much lack -- correct?
Lou
Here you go Louie, just pull the upper a frame have your machine shop mill the holes in the cross shaft 1/4 of a inch forward so you can slide the a frame back. The last one I did I could get 4 degrees positive caster with even number of shims. Each car will be a little different.
The next one I do, I will mill 5/16 of an inch and hopefully get 5 degrees easily.
Jeff
The next one I do, I will mill 5/16 of an inch and hopefully get 5 degrees easily.
Jeff
#16
Louie, it does add to the directional stability (especially on uneven or rutty pavement) of the car and adds a little more effort and feel to the steering wheel.
Jeff
#17
Race Director
I hope this does not seem like we are hijacking this thread, but this mod really compliments the addition of the new steering box. Larry I make a small filler out of scrap metal and tuck it in the gap just in case one of the bolts come lose. You use normal alignment shims.
Louie, it does add to the directional stability (especially on uneven or rutty pavement) of the car and adds a little more effort and feel to the steering wheel.
Jeff
Louie, it does add to the directional stability (especially on uneven or rutty pavement) of the car and adds a little more effort and feel to the steering wheel.
Jeff
Lou
#18
Instructor
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Answers to Questions
I used the original carriage bolts as they were of adequate length.
The shaft needed to be cut about 1 1/2". I did it without removing the column from the car by using a sawz-all. I used the "measure 57 times, cut once" method. Actually, I made the first cut purposefully long, and after confirming the needed length, made the final one.
Another suggestion for Borgeson: why not use the metric style "O" ring ends on the hoses instead of the flare ones with brass inserts. It would be much easier to get a leak free attachment.
Thanks for everyones' kind words.
The shaft needed to be cut about 1 1/2". I did it without removing the column from the car by using a sawz-all. I used the "measure 57 times, cut once" method. Actually, I made the first cut purposefully long, and after confirming the needed length, made the final one.
Another suggestion for Borgeson: why not use the metric style "O" ring ends on the hoses instead of the flare ones with brass inserts. It would be much easier to get a leak free attachment.
Thanks for everyones' kind words.
#19
Drifting
#20
1. Click on "Five Window"
2. From drop-down list, click "View Public Profile"
3. Far right-hand side of the screen, click "Borgeson Steering Conversion"
4. Click on pictures to enlarge
Or just click here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...onversion.html