62 wont run with key in run position
06-22-2009, 05:02 PM
#1
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62 wont run with key in run position
Hello!
My name is Eric and this past weekend my father-in-law and I were working on his 62. It is a 4 spd, 25 footer..but is a great car when it runs.
I have read the FAQ and 4 pages of searching, but can't seem to find a suitable answer. Problem is - the car will only run with the key in the start position. It turns over and starts well. Once the key goes to the run position, the engine dies immediately. I can't seem to figure out what to do next.
We made sure the battery is ok (volts and cranking amps), cleaned connections at the battery, grounds, starter, coil and ballast resistor. The resistor has been replaced. We've also checked for loose connections.
The car turns over and starts fine, it just wont stay running. The dash guages work, so I did not think the ignition switch is bad, but wasnt 100% how to test it. So, any tips on that would be great!
Is there something else I should consider? Vacuum, maybe?
I appreciate in advance your time! I'm ok on the mechanical side, electrical, not at all.
Sincerely,
Eric, the Noob
My name is Eric and this past weekend my father-in-law and I were working on his 62. It is a 4 spd, 25 footer..but is a great car when it runs.
I have read the FAQ and 4 pages of searching, but can't seem to find a suitable answer. Problem is - the car will only run with the key in the start position. It turns over and starts well. Once the key goes to the run position, the engine dies immediately. I can't seem to figure out what to do next.
We made sure the battery is ok (volts and cranking amps), cleaned connections at the battery, grounds, starter, coil and ballast resistor. The resistor has been replaced. We've also checked for loose connections.
The car turns over and starts fine, it just wont stay running. The dash guages work, so I did not think the ignition switch is bad, but wasnt 100% how to test it. So, any tips on that would be great!
Is there something else I should consider? Vacuum, maybe?
I appreciate in advance your time! I'm ok on the mechanical side, electrical, not at all.
Sincerely,
Eric, the Noob
06-22-2009, 05:04 PM
#2
Team Owner
Connect a jumper wire from the POS battery terminal to the POS terminal on the ignition coil and try starting it with the key. (Basically hot-wiring the car). If the car then stays running odds are your ignition switch (about $80 for a repro) is bad or else a connection to it is faulty. Its almost surely the switch since you've replaced the ballast resistor (the next most likely suspect).
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 06-22-2009 at 05:07 PM.
06-22-2009, 05:46 PM
#5
Team Owner
Unlike some of the Northern Florida older folks - I can multi-task...
Ooops....Gotta run...just spilled a Diet Coke in my lap while typing...
Frank
Ooops....Gotta run...just spilled a Diet Coke in my lap while typing...
Frank
06-22-2009, 08:39 PM
#9
Team Owner
I had this EXACT problem and it was the ignition switch not the ballast resistor...the real way to check is to see if there is 12V at the brown wire at the ballast resistor with the key in the RUN (not START) position; if so the ignition switch is good. See pic. Eric said he was 'electronically challenged' so I was starting out slow with a quickee check anyone can do...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 06-22-2009 at 09:08 PM.
06-22-2009, 08:40 PM
#10
Team Owner
06-22-2009, 11:29 PM
#11
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Chances are it is either the ballast resistor or the Ignition switch. or possibly the wire between the two, or the wire from the ballast resistor to the coil.
Ths quickest and easiest thing to do is to first jumper the ballast resistor and see if the car stays running. If it does, it is the Ballast resistor.
If not, secondly, jumper between the (+) Post of the coil and ballast resistor (either side). If the car now stays running it is the wire between the ballast resistor and coil.
Then go ahead and check the Ignition switch "Ign" Terminal for power with the Ignition switch in the "on" Position. The ignition switch should have voltage with the Ignition switch is in the "On" Position. If no power, the ignition switch is bad. If there is power, it is the wire between the Ignition Switch and Ballast Resistor.
This reason I would check the ballast resistor and wire between the ballast resistor and coil first is that these are very easy to get to from under the hood and you have eliminated these things before you have to get under the dash.
Chances are it is the ballast resistor.
Just my thoughts,
Chris CWPASADENA
06-22-2009, 11:44 PM
#12
Team Owner
06-23-2009, 01:34 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
With the ignition switch on, check for voltage at the balast resistor ignition feed side with a test light or volt meter. If you have no voltage there move upstream to the ignition switch terminal that feeds the resistor. If still no voltage then it is the ignition switch. If you have voltage at the resistor on the ignition feed side then check for voltage at the coil side of the resistor. If you don't have voltage through the resistor then the resistor is open. This pretty much covers all of the possibilities. 
06-23-2009, 08:57 AM
#14
Race Director
After it starts hold the key very slightly to the start position (without engaging the starter) to see if it continues to run. If it does, its the ignition switch. I've had this happen a couple of times over the years. I had to drive the car holding the key until I could get home ! This is an easy check that doesn't require anything but turning the key !
Last edited by GCD1962; 06-23-2009 at 02:03 PM.
06-23-2009, 10:23 AM
#15
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You are correct, but the point I was trying to make was to check and eliminate the easiest stuff first.
Someone may suggest the ignition switch may be the problem which it very well may be but why not do a quick and easy diagnosis of the components under the hood that are easy to get to before getting under the dash which is a lot more difficult?
I also said at the end of my post that I, like you, also thought it probably is the ballast resistor which I have usually (but not always) found is the problem in such a case as this.
Just my thoughts,
Chris, CWPASADENA
06-23-2009, 11:03 AM
#16
Moderator
Hello!
My name is Eric and this past weekend my father-in-law and I were working on his 62. It is a 4 spd, 25 footer..but is a great car when it runs.
I have read the FAQ and 4 pages of searching, but can't seem to find a suitable answer. Problem is - the car will only run with the key in the start position. It turns over and starts well. Once the key goes to the run position, the engine dies immediately. I can't seem to figure out what to do next.
We made sure the battery is ok (volts and cranking amps), cleaned connections at the battery, grounds, starter, coil and ballast resistor. The resistor has been replaced. We've also checked for loose connections.
The car turns over and starts fine, it just wont stay running. The dash guages work, so I did not think the ignition switch is bad, but wasnt 100% how to test it. So, any tips on that would be great!
Is there something else I should consider? Vacuum, maybe?
I appreciate in advance your time! I'm ok on the mechanical side, electrical, not at all.
Sincerely,
Eric, the Noob
My name is Eric and this past weekend my father-in-law and I were working on his 62. It is a 4 spd, 25 footer..but is a great car when it runs.
I have read the FAQ and 4 pages of searching, but can't seem to find a suitable answer. Problem is - the car will only run with the key in the start position. It turns over and starts well. Once the key goes to the run position, the engine dies immediately. I can't seem to figure out what to do next.
We made sure the battery is ok (volts and cranking amps), cleaned connections at the battery, grounds, starter, coil and ballast resistor. The resistor has been replaced. We've also checked for loose connections.
The car turns over and starts fine, it just wont stay running. The dash guages work, so I did not think the ignition switch is bad, but wasnt 100% how to test it. So, any tips on that would be great!
Is there something else I should consider? Vacuum, maybe?
I appreciate in advance your time! I'm ok on the mechanical side, electrical, not at all.
Sincerely,
Eric, the Noob
06-23-2009, 11:41 AM
#17
Team Owner
I hope folks didn't miss the fact the OP already replaced the ballast resistor - doesn't mean a new one can't be bad but it makes it somewhat less likely as the culprit...
06-23-2009, 12:27 PM
#18
06-23-2009, 02:04 PM
#19
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Great stuff everyone! The resistor is brand new from Eckler's but is not above being suspect. I vaguely remember seeing 10 volts on either side of the resistor, but will not testify to it 
I will email this to my FIL to test. Unfortunately, the car is 2 hrs away in Circleville so its going to be a couple of weeks before I get back up there.
I will email this to my FIL to test. Unfortunately, the car is 2 hrs away in Circleville so its going to be a couple of weeks before I get back up there.
06-23-2009, 03:03 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
Very easy to check the ballast resistor with a ohm meter. Remove the two wires,and go across the 2 post and if you have a 1.8 ohm short,it's good,if you don't,its bad. I'm betting the ignition switch is bad.