Aligning a bellhousing for a tremec 5spd?
04-05-2009, 11:24 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Aligning a bellhousing for a tremec 5spd?
Hi all, I'm trying to install my new 5spd. tranny and I have a question for those who have done this swap. In the directions it states that you need to measure the concentricity of the bellhouse opening with a dial indicator mounted to the crankshaft flange. How did you mount your indicator? Did you make a custom mount/bracket? I can't figure out how to mount the indicator dead center on the crank. Any ideas?
04-05-2009, 11:41 AM
#2
Race Director
The dial doesn't have to be dead center on the crank. Just set up an indicator with a magnetic base on the flywheel with the stylus on the edge of the opening. Then rotate the crankshaft and watch the dial. It will tell you how far out the hole is in relation to the center of the crank.
I made one up, here's a photo of what I used:
This assumes that your pilot bushing, crankshaft and flywheel are all concentric, and the guide pins are tight in the bell housing holes. They will be if all the parts used are good pieces.
I made one up, here's a photo of what I used:
This assumes that your pilot bushing, crankshaft and flywheel are all concentric, and the guide pins are tight in the bell housing holes. They will be if all the parts used are good pieces.
Last edited by claysmoker; 04-05-2009 at 11:44 AM.
04-05-2009, 11:48 AM
#4
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2003
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I used the classic chevy 5 kit on my 1960, they have pretty good instructions for doing this procedure - in fact if you look at their website, they have a video showing how to do this.
Using their instructions, the dial instrument does not need to be exactly in the center - if it offset that is OK - this is because you are measuring alignment at 12, 3 6 and 9 o'clock - you subtract those two measurements and divide by 2 giving a relative measurement - it takes a while to get use to this idea but once you do it a couple of time, it makes sense.
A couple of things that made it easier for me was using the adjustable dowel pins they suggest in the video - BIG IMPROVEMENT. Also take out the spark plugs because you are going to be turning the motor over many times trying to get it aligned.
bret
Using their instructions, the dial instrument does not need to be exactly in the center - if it offset that is OK - this is because you are measuring alignment at 12, 3 6 and 9 o'clock - you subtract those two measurements and divide by 2 giving a relative measurement - it takes a while to get use to this idea but once you do it a couple of time, it makes sense.
A couple of things that made it easier for me was using the adjustable dowel pins they suggest in the video - BIG IMPROVEMENT. Also take out the spark plugs because you are going to be turning the motor over many times trying to get it aligned.
bret
Last edited by 71zman; 04-05-2009 at 11:51 AM.
04-05-2009, 11:56 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I used the classic chevy 5 kit on my 1960, they have pretty good instructions for doing this procedure - in fact if you look at their website, they have a video showing how to do this.
Using their instructions, the dial instrument does not need to be exactly in the center - if it offset that is OK - this is because you are measuring alignment at 12, 3 6 and 9 o'clock - you subtract those two measurements and divide by 2 giving a relative measurement - it takes a while to get use to this idea but once you do it a couple of time, it makes sense.
A couple of things that made it easier for me was using the adjustable dowel pins they suggest in the video - BIG IMPROVEMENT. Also take out the spark plugs because you are going to be turning the motor over many times trying to get it aligned.
bret
Using their instructions, the dial instrument does not need to be exactly in the center - if it offset that is OK - this is because you are measuring alignment at 12, 3 6 and 9 o'clock - you subtract those two measurements and divide by 2 giving a relative measurement - it takes a while to get use to this idea but once you do it a couple of time, it makes sense.
A couple of things that made it easier for me was using the adjustable dowel pins they suggest in the video - BIG IMPROVEMENT. Also take out the spark plugs because you are going to be turning the motor over many times trying to get it aligned.
bret
The dial doesn't have to be dead center on the crank. Just set up an indicator with a magnetic base on the flywheel with the stylus on the edge of the opening. Then rotate the crankshaft and watch the dial. It will tell you how far out the hole is in relation to the center of the crank.
I made one up, here's a photo of what I used:
This assumes that your pilot bushing, crankshaft and flywheel are all concentric, and the guide pins are tight in the bell housing holes. They will be if all the parts used are good pieces.
I made one up, here's a photo of what I used:
This assumes that your pilot bushing, crankshaft and flywheel are all concentric, and the guide pins are tight in the bell housing holes. They will be if all the parts used are good pieces.
Here ya go. http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm
04-05-2009, 11:57 AM
#6
Race Director
I used the classic chevy 5 kit on my 1960, they have pretty good instructions for doing this procedure - in fact if you look at their website, they have a video showing how to do this.
Using their instructions, the dial instrument does not need to be exactly in the center - if it offset that is OK - this is because you are measuring alignment at 12, 3 6 and 9 o'clock - you subtract those two measurements and divide by 2 giving a relative measurement - it takes a while to get use to this idea but once you do it a couple of time, it makes sense.
A couple of things that made it easier for me was using the adjustable dowel pins they suggest in the video - BIG IMPROVEMENT. Also take out the spark plugs because you are going to be turning the motor over many times trying to get it aligned.
bret
Using their instructions, the dial instrument does not need to be exactly in the center - if it offset that is OK - this is because you are measuring alignment at 12, 3 6 and 9 o'clock - you subtract those two measurements and divide by 2 giving a relative measurement - it takes a while to get use to this idea but once you do it a couple of time, it makes sense.
A couple of things that made it easier for me was using the adjustable dowel pins they suggest in the video - BIG IMPROVEMENT. Also take out the spark plugs because you are going to be turning the motor over many times trying to get it aligned.
bret
But don't run out and buy a set of adjustable pins unless you really have to have them. I bolted a stock bellhousing onto a new engine with stock guide pins and it was only .001" off. I hope you have such good fortune.
04-05-2009, 12:00 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
04-05-2009, 12:15 PM
#8
Safety Car
Don't need exact center as you are trying see offset. Take multiple readings 180° apart and use 1/2 the difference EX. -10° and a 0° reading would give you a 5° offset.
Hard to see but dial indicator I iused was big to it is inside bell and I had to use mirror to read
.
George
Hard to see but dial indicator I iused was big to it is inside bell and I had to use mirror to read
. George
04-05-2009, 10:03 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Don't need exact center as you are trying see offset. Take multiple readings 180° apart and use 1/2 the difference EX. -10° and a 0° reading would give you a 5° offset.
Hard to see but dial indicator I iused was big to it is inside bell and I had to use mirror to read .
George
Hard to see but dial indicator I iused was big to it is inside bell and I had to use mirror to read
. George
Man! I hope I'm that lucky!
04-06-2009, 06:23 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
Hi all, I'm trying to install my new 5spd. tranny and I have a question for those who have done this swap. In the directions it states that you need to measure the concentricity of the bellhouse opening with a dial indicator mounted to the crankshaft flange. How did you mount your indicator? Did you make a custom mount/bracket? I can't figure out how to mount the indicator dead center on the crank. Any ideas?
04-06-2009, 01:44 PM
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Browell makes a great tool for centering bellhousings - bolt the spindle to the crank, load the bellhousing, slide the ring on the tool, then into the opening, and adjust the Lakewood dowel pins until the ring slips in without interference. Nails it every time.
04-06-2009, 02:48 PM
#13
Racer
Went to the site and cannot find one, do you have a part # on it? I assume it has different sleeves for different bells ID's ?
Don't forget to be sure you have bell parallel between front and rear mounting surfaces as well, equally important!
Bill
04-06-2009, 04:50 PM
#14
Race Director
no info on the Browell site. They have pictures, but no part number or price. I guess you would need to call and inquire. Phone (765) 447-2292. An article from the Camaro Forum indicated a retail cost of this tool of $125 in 2007. Probably a bit higher now.
Let's see if John has additional/latest info.
Larry
04-06-2009, 07:31 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Bill:
no info on the Browell site. They have pictures, but no part number or price. I guess you would need to call and inquire. Phone (765) 447-2292.
An article from the Camaro Forum indicated a retail cost of this tool of $125 in 2007. Probably a bit higher now.
Let's see if John has additional/latest info.
Larry
no info on the Browell site. They have pictures, but no part number or price. I guess you would need to call and inquire. Phone (765) 447-2292. An article from the Camaro Forum indicated a retail cost of this tool of $125 in 2007. Probably a bit higher now.
Let's see if John has additional/latest info.
Larry
And I will need to do the same thing as Pletner when I put our 5 speed in but since it will probably be a one shot deal I'll stick with my old but effective small magnetic base with last word indicator. Excellent information given 
