Looking for help on wiring an amp gauge on the '67 (with a mini-starter)
04-17-2008, 11:32 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Looking for help on wiring an amp gauge on the '67 (with a mini-starter)
Anyone got any hints? We're looking for help or schematic for wiring the amp gauge on the '67 to work with a Tilton gear-reduction starter. I never bothered to hook it up- and now I need to because the car's driving me nuts by killing batteries as fast as I can install them!
Seems to me someone said to wire the amp gauge via the horn relay- can't seem to remember. My hard drive's kinda full (CRS), if you know what I mean. Thanks in advance.
Seems to me someone said to wire the amp gauge via the horn relay- can't seem to remember. My hard drive's kinda full (CRS), if you know what I mean. Thanks in advance.
04-17-2008, 02:29 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
The wiring shoulsd stay the same for amps. There is a black wire on the hot red wire at the horn relay, and
a blk wire at the red feed wire at the starter.
These are the "sense" wires for the amp meter.
If you have a problem with the lack of an "R" terminal at the solenoid this is a diff problem
a blk wire at the red feed wire at the starter.
These are the "sense" wires for the amp meter.
If you have a problem with the lack of an "R" terminal at the solenoid this is a diff problem
04-17-2008, 03:11 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
The wiring shoulsd stay the same for amps. There is a black wire on the hot red wire at the horn relay, and
a blk wire at the red feed wire at the starter.
These are the "sense" wires for the amp meter.
If you have a problem with the lack of an "R" terminal at the solenoid this is a diff problem
a blk wire at the red feed wire at the starter.
These are the "sense" wires for the amp meter.
If you have a problem with the lack of an "R" terminal at the solenoid this is a diff problem
04-18-2008, 08:25 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
The car's had problems forever with battery drain. I put a knife switch on the battery + cable to stop the bleed down. The alternator is new (Powermaster Delco 100 amp- 3 wire) and the external regulator is new (solid state). The front harness is new too. New battery (#5!) and new battery cables. The alternator tested for a bad diode (which was replaced). After diode replacement, something's still killing the battery when the car's sitting. Grounds seem OK. It's so bad, the if you leave the switch closed overnight there isn't one amp left in the new battery the next morning! This is making me crazy.
04-18-2008, 12:24 PM
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,859 Likes
on
1,102 Posts
Pull the negative battery cable and insert a test light between the battery terminal and the cable end; if there's an amperage draw, the test light will be on. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out - when it goes out, that's the circuit you need to investigate for shorts. Glove box light that doesn't turn off is a common problem. 
04-27-2008, 02:45 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Looks like the culprit was the voltage regulator all along (after replacing a bad alternator diode earlier in the new Powermaster Delco 100 amp 3 wire alternator)! I'm surprised because the regulator was new also. Paid pretty good $$ for the damn thing too. POS.
