DZAUTO

I will neither argue with nor contradict anyone about the superiority of a later TPI system adapted to an earlier engine/car. Everything about a TPI system is better------------------------EXCEPT one thing. If you're not a computer nerd (and I darn sure am not!!!), then you are dead in the water. I'm great with mechanical stuff (REAL good with Rochester FI), but I don't know how to get to first base with a computer controlled TPI. I do know that when properly dialed in, they perform well, start easily, get (or can get) great gas mileage and can be adapted to many engines. Although as I understand, they don't do so well with a radical profile cam.
Also, when properly dialed in, ESPECIALLY if you have access to and can interpret a dyno/exhaust analizer, the Rochester units are a great system. But as I have said before, the air meter greatly limits the the cfm available to large displacement engines.
And last of all, the Rochester FI units have a "magic" about them that just doesn't exist with modern day computer controlled TPI.
I know that modern day engines are soooooooooooooooooooooo much better, more powerful, more efficient and longer lasting than older engines. But I sure would LOVE TO HAVE a street rod with a 300+inch Flatty with 2-3 carbs and finned alum heads! There again, a trick flatty just has a magic appeal that today's engines don't have!
I wish that 40-50yrs ago I had learned to build an upgraded modern flatty.

63FI

...yea the GM TPI setups are great, up to 4800 RPM. They are real good for a low RPM torque motor.

Ironcross

you missed my point, all that was available THEN was mechanical injection. Your photo appears to be mechanical. Hilborn type. Now if i`m wrong then it still would not be available until computers came into existence. Just ask 'Al Gore' when that could have happened. Isn`t he the inventor of either computers or the internet?...hell by now hes probably claiming both..... ` [

verle

The picture may be a Hilborn type mechanical fuel injection, but appears to me to be Webber style carburetors, still not electronic FI.

Verle

firstgear

great!!! how is this photo? can you see the injectors under the fuel rails?









I would get a photo of the ECM but it is buried behind the passenger kick pad.....but here is what is used to program it, of course it is loaded on a laptop...

firstgear

sorry, the original posting I was being a smart a$$....sorry to all....

Injected Stingray

Matt, I think that putting the fuel unit on your car is a great idea. I saw your car when it was for sale and it looked to be a real fuel car from what I saw. You need to do your home work before you spend any money on a fuel unit. There are a lot of pieced together units that are floating around. I have seen guys on ebay buying up parts then selling them screwed together as working units. I still want your wheels if you sell them.

Walt, your right on the money. The LT1 is just a stroked L76. Sounds like the perfect combo.

First gear, the crower crossram has to be one of the best looking MFI systems out there and the conversion looks real nice. I need to get one for my big block.

K2

Lick your chops on these Tom!

Ironcross

I have a fraturnity brother that runs that EFI stuff with a lot of success. His car is a big Black 1969 Dodge Charger with '640' inches of BB 'Chevy' Bet you though I was going to say Chrysler.. His name, Don Vargo placed 3rd.at the Popular Hot Rodding shootout. at 9.52 ET @ 139.50 MPH. On straight engine only and drove it to the shootout in Kentucky. Street driven at home to these nightly car things with a big pro stock bubble hood he would un-pin it after a while and start it up. The Dodge 'boys' would would come running and gasp "its blasphemy' and Dons reply is 'you have the direct connection and I have the correct connection'

He is responsible for me being hooked on Vettes. While at U of Miami and we would switch cars. Mine a stick shift 57 J-2 Super 88 Olds and his a 58 Charcoal FI Vette.

That 640 inch Chevy is now back in a Chevy. His new piece is this Black narrowed fat tired Camaro. The Dodge now has a twin turbo with EFI and 528 cubic inches of new Hemi..

firstgear

I looked at some set ups like that before I bought the one you see. I didn't like the look of the fuel rails sitting on top with the hoses quite visible as well.....

Injected Stingray

Yours has a clean retro look to it. Did you have it converted or buy it setup already? How is the drivablity and off idle performance? Which control are you using?

mattyg92

well it looks like i made the deal!! i am now diving into the fuelie world!!

thanks for the help, aadvice

Joel 67

What did you end up with?

DZAUTO

bobvet7

I put a 61 Fuelie unit on my first Corvette- a 62 low HP car that had 3 deuces on it when I bought it. It ran OK, but I had occaisional problems with hydrostatic lock due to fuel siphoning down after shutoff. As I recall, there is supposed to be a antisiphon device in the unit, but it obviously wasn't working. A couple of my friends also had problems with hydrostatic lock with a fuel injected 57 Chevy they raced in Junior Stock classes. In their case, they discovered a bent rod or two (I never took my car apart).

I also put a 65 unit on a 67 coupe with a 327/350 HP engine for about 50,000 miles of long-distance commuting. That unit had a solenoid bypass on the spider that not only prevented siphoning, but provided plenty of fuel for starting in cold weather.

I'm just commenting because this would be a concern for me if I were going to put one of these on the 59 I'm attempting to reserect. Personally, I'd put a Tuned Port unit on.

Joel 67

Good points. Most FI folks recommend installing an anti-siphon solenoid to prevent this. Is is a really simple device with simple installation. It is available from the FI part suppliers (John Degregory, Jim Neuffer, etc.) and is mostly hidden away under the dog house when installed.

wmf62

here is an example of the aftermarket C1 anti-siphon solenoid installation:



Bill

jim lockwood

For Sting Ray era FI units, for a retrofitted solenoid valve to prevent hydrolocking an engine, the fuel plumbing path needs to be modified when installing an anti-siphon valve.

The attached picture shows what has to be done:






Fuel that normally circulates from the high pressure pump, by the spider, and back to the spill valve must be re-routed. As modified, it flows from the pump, by the solenoid valve, and then to the spill valve.

(Note that one side of the "T" fitting at the spider must be plugged.)

If the solenoid valve is installed only in the puel path to the spider, fuel can still reach the engine by way of the return path that normally flows fuel towards the spill valve. (Yes, this is experience talking.)

I can't say with certainty that altering the fuel path like this doesn't upset the calibration slightly. I've done this to two Sting Ray units which the owners needed back in a hurry so I wasn't able to look for changes in calibration. I do keep in touch with one of the owners and he's happy as can be with the way his car runs. Whatever effect this has, therefore, is probably slight. A third unit that I modified in this way was recalibrated after the installation of the solenoid and it works well.

Jim

mattyg92

here is what i bought

mattyg92

and the added solenoid