Broke Off Anti-theft Pin
#1
Broke Off Anti-theft Pin
Well now what do I do?
I just installed new tires on my KO rims and after I got the KO all tightened up I "lightly" tapped the anti-theft pin into position. Then I figured maybe I should put a drop of anti-seize on the pin so I tried to remove it. You know what happened next, part of the pin is still in the hole.
Any suggestions about how to remove it? If you hit the knock-off spinner hard enough, will it shear the remainder of the pin or should it be drilled out?
I know, never tap the pins into place! I won't be forgetting that ever again.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steven
I just installed new tires on my KO rims and after I got the KO all tightened up I "lightly" tapped the anti-theft pin into position. Then I figured maybe I should put a drop of anti-seize on the pin so I tried to remove it. You know what happened next, part of the pin is still in the hole.
Any suggestions about how to remove it? If you hit the knock-off spinner hard enough, will it shear the remainder of the pin or should it be drilled out?
I know, never tap the pins into place! I won't be forgetting that ever again.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steven
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
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I avoid those problems. I don't use the useless pins.
If they're aluminum, it should be an easy drill out. If they're hollow, you might run a small screw in the center and pull it out.
If they're aluminum, it should be an easy drill out. If they're hollow, you might run a small screw in the center and pull it out.
#3
Instructor
I did the same thing to mine a few months back. Pin is aluminum and drills out quite easily. Start small, go slow and use a progressively larger bit. Mine came out with the bit.
Good luck. Shouldn't be too much of a problem hopefully.
Good luck. Shouldn't be too much of a problem hopefully.
#4
Race Director
Now you understand why those little pins are useless.. Drill it out if you can. If you can't sheer it.. Then again I run hubcaps so I don't have the worries of knock off spinners.. Then again maybe I'm cheap Dave
#6
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=MikeM;1562690695]I avoid those problems. I don't use the useless pins.
You got that right! Thats just what they are. Dont EVER depend on them or get comfortable with them for a minute. Always keep an eye on them.
You got that right! Thats just what they are. Dont EVER depend on them or get comfortable with them for a minute. Always keep an eye on them.
#8
Le Mans Master
You got that right Paul, my best friend found that out the hard way, and I know he kept after them. He has since put on the direct bolts.
#9
Thanks for all the suggestions
Looks like drilling it out is the best way.
I have a question for the ones that don't use the pins:
How tight do you install the KO spinners? Do you just keep hitting them until they won't tighten anymore? I would be afraid of stripping the threads.
How do you all install the spinners securely and not have to worry about them coming loose?
Thanks
Looks like drilling it out is the best way.
I have a question for the ones that don't use the pins:
How tight do you install the KO spinners? Do you just keep hitting them until they won't tighten anymore? I would be afraid of stripping the threads.
How do you all install the spinners securely and not have to worry about them coming loose?
Thanks
#10
Le Mans Master
Well I never had them, personally I like the look of the hubcaps, but I would think you the hell out of them, drive around some and then them again. If it was me I would check them everytime I drove the car. Better safe than sorry.
#11
Le Mans Master
Thanks for all the suggestions
Looks like drilling it out is the best way.
I have a question for the ones that don't use the pins:
How tight do you install the KO spinners? Do you just keep hitting them until they won't tighten anymore? I would be afraid of stripping the threads.
How do you all install the spinners securely and not have to worry about them coming loose?
Thanks
Looks like drilling it out is the best way.
I have a question for the ones that don't use the pins:
How tight do you install the KO spinners? Do you just keep hitting them until they won't tighten anymore? I would be afraid of stripping the threads.
How do you all install the spinners securely and not have to worry about them coming loose?
Thanks
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,844 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions
Looks like drilling it out is the best way.
I have a question for the ones that don't use the pins:
How tight do you install the KO spinners? Do you just keep hitting them until they won't tighten anymore? I would be afraid of stripping the threads.
How do you all install the spinners securely and not have to worry about them coming loose?
Thanks
Looks like drilling it out is the best way.
I have a question for the ones that don't use the pins:
How tight do you install the KO spinners? Do you just keep hitting them until they won't tighten anymore? I would be afraid of stripping the threads.
How do you all install the spinners securely and not have to worry about them coming loose?
Thanks
You won't strip the threads. I don't beat on mine the way some describe. I use a 5 lb dead blow to get the spinners pretty snug and save wear and tear on my lead hammer. Then I give the spinners a couple final thumps with a lead "Mother Thumper" hammer. I think it's 5-6 pounds. No wild flailing, just a couple of "thumps". If you use the standard repop 2 pound hammer, you need to whack them harder. The standard issue hammers are a waste of money as they don't last.
Your threads should be free of burrs. Lubricated. I use white grease on the spinner threads and interface with the wheel, others use anti-sieze. I've never had one try to loosen either.
Last edited by MikeM; 11-11-2007 at 06:28 AM.
#13
Tech Contributor
After my spinners are tight, I like to add a black magic marker line across the spinner/cone interface point, so that I can periodically confirm that the spinner isn't moving in relation to the cone.
Jeff
Jeff
#14
I appreciate all the replies.
I have been using the "****** Thumper" hammer on them and hitting them pretty hard, no love taps. The spinners sure seem to be on tight.
I will use the magic marker idea to make sure they are not moving.
I really love the look of the KO rims on my '64. I have read so many threads about them coming loose that you get a little frightened about them. Did Chevrolet have this problem back when these cars were new?
Thanks,
Steven
I have been using the "****** Thumper" hammer on them and hitting them pretty hard, no love taps. The spinners sure seem to be on tight.
I will use the magic marker idea to make sure they are not moving.
I really love the look of the KO rims on my '64. I have read so many threads about them coming loose that you get a little frightened about them. Did Chevrolet have this problem back when these cars were new?
Thanks,
Steven
#15
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
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"Did Chevrolet have this problem back when these cars were new?"
I don't know that Chevrolet ever had a problem with them coming loose. The owners that didn't install them correctly had problems.
There is one problem I see today that didn't exist when the KO's were new. I believe there must be a large number of wheels out there that have the drive pin holes in the wheels enlarged by the drive pins because they have been run loose. The wheel working back and forth will enlarge the holes in the wheels.
When this happens, I believe the torque of the wheel working against just the spinner interface with the wheel will loosen the spinners. Safety pins or no safety pins. Another problem, I was told the original wheel print shows clearance of .010 drive pin/drive pin hole in wheel. Holes in the wheels are design nominal @ .625. Pins should be .515 but I've measured near new pins .010 or more smaller in diamter than that. This increases the chance for more radial play between the wheel and the hub. I don't know if this was intentional to open up the machine clearance but I've measure it.
I've looked at a number of "for sale" KO wheels in the last couple years. I've bought two sets that were what I'd call usable or still had "as new" dimensions. I've bought two more sets that turned out to be junk when I got them home and did some mearsuring. One set was bought from a member of this forum. He didn't mis-represent them exactly, just didn't tell the whole story. I'd say he knew EXACTLY what he was selling. Another set was bought from a member of the NCRS board and also is a vice-president of a rather large eastern Corvette Club. I don't know whether this guy was just stupid or a liar. I bought them, cash in advance based on his representation of the wheels via e-mail.
No problem though getting my money back. I sold them all as spares. Of course I pointed out the wear damage to the buyer. Three more sets I've looked at were so badly worn, you didn't need anything more than an eyeball to see they were junk.
The point in all this is, if you're buying used wheels, do a little measuring before you drop your cash because if you put worn wheels on your car, I don't believe safety pins or pounding with a steel sledge hammer will keep your car up on the four wheels.
I am still looking for good used KO wheels if anyone has some for sale at a decent price.
I don't know that Chevrolet ever had a problem with them coming loose. The owners that didn't install them correctly had problems.
There is one problem I see today that didn't exist when the KO's were new. I believe there must be a large number of wheels out there that have the drive pin holes in the wheels enlarged by the drive pins because they have been run loose. The wheel working back and forth will enlarge the holes in the wheels.
When this happens, I believe the torque of the wheel working against just the spinner interface with the wheel will loosen the spinners. Safety pins or no safety pins. Another problem, I was told the original wheel print shows clearance of .010 drive pin/drive pin hole in wheel. Holes in the wheels are design nominal @ .625. Pins should be .515 but I've measured near new pins .010 or more smaller in diamter than that. This increases the chance for more radial play between the wheel and the hub. I don't know if this was intentional to open up the machine clearance but I've measure it.
I've looked at a number of "for sale" KO wheels in the last couple years. I've bought two sets that were what I'd call usable or still had "as new" dimensions. I've bought two more sets that turned out to be junk when I got them home and did some mearsuring. One set was bought from a member of this forum. He didn't mis-represent them exactly, just didn't tell the whole story. I'd say he knew EXACTLY what he was selling. Another set was bought from a member of the NCRS board and also is a vice-president of a rather large eastern Corvette Club. I don't know whether this guy was just stupid or a liar. I bought them, cash in advance based on his representation of the wheels via e-mail.
No problem though getting my money back. I sold them all as spares. Of course I pointed out the wear damage to the buyer. Three more sets I've looked at were so badly worn, you didn't need anything more than an eyeball to see they were junk.
The point in all this is, if you're buying used wheels, do a little measuring before you drop your cash because if you put worn wheels on your car, I don't believe safety pins or pounding with a steel sledge hammer will keep your car up on the four wheels.
I am still looking for good used KO wheels if anyone has some for sale at a decent price.