TTop Tony

The top fuse on my 63 keeps blowing. It says Gas ga and Brake al. I'm assuming the the first is the gas guage wich I'm not using since I have an aftermarket gas guage and ran new lines. But anyone know what Brake al. is and mayeb some hints where I should start looking?

The Black Knight

I think the brake al is a light telling you your emergency brake is engaged (pulled out). There is a little pin switch at the end of the e brake assembly under the dash at the firewall. My cars have a tan wire going to the switch.

kenmo

I have a 60..but isn't that for the emergency brake light?

TTop Tony

Huh. is that what thats for. That has never worked on my car along with teh parking brake that doesn't work. I wonder what made it short out. Thank you at least it gives me idea where to look.

The Black Knight

In my cars, and I am assuming it's the same for the 63, the brake telltale on the dash flashes when the e brake is on. Check to make sure that wire isn't grounded or somehow got chafed or pinched by the brake pedal.

Good luck on the fuse problem. They can be pesky sometimes.

Tampa Jerry

Fuses blow because they are too weak for the circuit (wrong size fuse) or because of a dead short. I would trace the wiring down and find out what is causing the short. You don't want a small problem to grow into a big problem. Jerry

62Jeff

On a 65, and I believe a 63, the Temp Gauge, E-brake light, and Gas Gauge are on the same fuse (and starting in 65 the backup lights are also on that circuit)

Any one of those has a short in them somewhere allowing your fuse to blow.

TTop Tony

It has a 10 on the fuse box but there was a 15a on the fuse I pulled out Maybe I can disconnect the parking brake indicator and that will fix it. Doesn't help when your electrician challenged like I am.

Tampa Jerry

I would not put a higher rated fuse on that circuit. That is an invitation to a fire. Somewhere in the circuit, a hot wire is grounding out causing the fuse to blow. I purchased wiring diagrams from Ken Olson and from Dr. Rebuild. They are all in color and makes tracing the wires a little easier. I would check the usual places where shorts can occur, such as areas outside the car and open to the elements in the rear of the car or where wires go through tight spots through the body. Good Luck. Jerry

TTop Tony

I have a laminated wiring diagram it's a bit hard for a electrically challanged person like me to follow. Maybe I'll invest in a colored one. The 15a amp was in there when I got the car.

blubu

Jeff is rite on the money. Mine has a short inside the gas gauge that you dont have. But they all follow the above circuit.

TTop Tony

How will you fix a short in teh guage itself. Rebuild it?

blubu

The plastic is brittle to the point there is no rebuild I would trust.
I plan on replacing mine with a new one. I have already ordered it.
Hope it fixes my problems with my cluster??

Tintin

Gents

A fuse can blow without a dead short. If the resistance in the line is too high or there is too much current draw it will also cause this to happen. An example is when your wife ( or mine for example) uses a 1500 watt hair dryer and plugs a curling iron into the same outlet, the breaker on your bathroom circuit trips. She thinks the house is defective, however the dryer is about 13 amps and the 1000 watt curling iron is about 8.5. The breaker is 15 amps , soooo .

Same thing in the Vetteski - if you have a lamp that has a corroded socket , for example, it will have high resistance to current flow and will cause the fuse to melt. As above, only use a fuse of the required amperage or you will cause the wires to act as a fuse instead, i.e. melt which can literally burn the bloody car to the ground.... I have a bunch of circuit breakers with alligator clips that I use to troubleshoot these things so I don't spend $800- on fuses at Kragen's when this sort of bug happens.. Just use crimp connectors on the breakers to the clips and attach the clips to both sides of the brass fuseholders on the car.
Saves looking for all your tools out in the driveway and in the yard when you get steamed up with the multiple car trips too (see Kragen's, above) ...

Check the connectors on the ignition switch, fuel sender and the grounding blocks... best of luck on this one

TTop Tony

Is there anything that will read amps? I think my multimeter just reads volts and ohms.

Tintin

Most multimeters will read amps... Harbour Freight has one that is only $4- !! You put the red probe in the AMP socket as opposed to the Volt/ohm one, take the fuse out and use the meter across the fuseholder, i.e. the red probe on one side and the black on the other with the meter completing the circuit and it will shoe current draw when you have everything going or the ignition on.

Before you do that however Take your meter and select ohms on the dial and then hold the black probe against the metal crossbar under the dashboard and use the red probe to touch each side of the fuseholder with the fuse removed. If you see ZERO ohms on both sides , then you have a short in the wiring to ground and you should take things out of the circuit until it does not sit at zero on both sides.

TTop Tony

Thanks Tintin that is very helpful information. there's a harbor freight not far from here. I will hopefully try that this evening if the weather here in Nashville will cooperate and dip below 100.

kenmo

I have both the Don Olson and Dr Rebuild. They ere invaluable when I rewired my 60 a few weeks ago..... Well worth the $20 or $25....

TTop Tony

Where would I get the Don Olson version?

vetsvette2002

Were you planning on coming up to Carlisle this year?
I can offer some guidance whan you arrive on troubleshooting.

Don