Downdraft

My 383 from URE arrived and it is a work of art! When I purchased my car all the original shielding was missing - just the brackets were/are present. I imagine that even with the new motor the shielding should still fit - correct?

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...27ci-1965.html

Any comments?

Can I install the shielding after installing the new engine or should some parts of the shielding be installed before the motor goes in?

Actually I wanted to get the car running with the new motor before sinking in another $700 ....

gbvette62

We really need more info, to know whether you can use the shielding or not.

What distributor are you using because some, such as HEI units, won't fit under the top box. Are you using headers, if so than you can not use the spark plug covers.

How do you plan to route your plug wires? If you plan to run them behind the exhaust manifolds (or headers), along the block and up behind the heads to the distirbutor, then you can use the lower "V" shields. If your running your wires up over the valve covers, than you don't need the lower "V"s.

I assume your dropping the engine into an assembled car, and not in a bare frame, during a body off. If this is the case, the only shielding that I would install before dropping the engine; would be the top box supports, the 2 plug wire brackets behind the heads, the 8 spark plug cover brackets, and the lower plug wire "v"s. Actually, you almost have to install the "V"s and plug wires, ahead of time, because of the way that the wires route through the body mount.

66jack

with what he said.

Downdraft

[QUOTE=gbvette62;1579373158]We really need more info, to know whether you can use the shielding or not.

Thanks - The distributor will be an MSD 8572 and the blaster coil MSD 8202 should fit in the original holder. From other posts I think the distributor will fit. The car will have headers and side pipes so I guess the lower part is not necessary.

Here are some engine pictures when it was just purchased - although it looks "rough" after restoring the interior and body I drove it 8000 miles - changing the oil twice - still has the same plugs - runs and ides perfectly. It's the 300 HP w/ matching block numbers. I did steam it and replaced the expansion tank back to the original metal canister, and a few other odds and ends but this motor is bullitproof and I will definatly keep it on the stand right next to the car.


I just need to decide about the before since I will keep the original brackets for the ignition cover or not.

66jack

If the engine is out...put on everything that you can...
Everything can be installed both ways some parts easier than others...The hardest parts for me were the small plug wire holders and the shields for the plugs/boots.

Downdraft

how would this look without the side wire covers? http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...pper-1965.html

gbvette62

From what you said and what I see, I would buy just the rear vertical shields (the left and rights, that cover the wires where they come up behind the heads), the top box, and the brackets for them, if you don't already have them.

You may already have the lower "V"s, holding your wires against the block. If so, I would reuse them, even with headers, as they will keep the wires away from the exhaust. Also, they're about $55 each new! It's definitely easier to install the wires and "V"s, with the engine out of the car. You'll want to put the 2 rear wire brackets on, with the engine out too.

To put the top box and rear vertical shields on, you'll need the to top supports (you need the right one to hold the coil anyway), and the 2 rear plug wire brackets.

You can buy everything you need individually. For about $300 less than the kit cost, you would have all the parts you need. The top box lists for $209, the verticals are about $40 each, the 2 top box supports are $19 each and the rear brackets are $10 each. You will also need 4 of the rectangular plug wire grommets, about 4 wing nuts and the "E" heat top bolt.

BarryK

since you aren't going for judging (I'm assuming since you are installing an aftermarket crate motor and other aftermarket parts) i'd recommend using only the main distributor cover if it fits over your distributor you are using and the upright pieces on either side of the main cover but NOT to use the lower "V" spark plug wire shield or the sparkplug shield and covers. The reason being is that the top and side covers are what's easily seen and dresses up the engine bay, but the lower shielding pieces for the wires and the plugs are seriously nothing but a MAJOR PITA to deal with every time you ever want to work on and service the car. The drivers side isn't so bad but reaching down to remove and or re-install these parts when working on the motor to change wires, change plugs, etc on the passenger side with the battery, the heater hoses, alternator, etc all in the way (and god help you if you had an A/C car!!) is enough to make you want to take a sledgehammer to the car. One of the biggest frustrations I've had over the years working on and servicing my car is dealing with the PITA lower shielding pieces.
Do yourself a favor (and save money too!) by just going with the 3 main shielding parts of the main cover and the two side uprights.

IF you do decide to use the lower shielding pieces also than it will be MUCH, MUCH, MUCH easier to install them all before you put the motor in - install them while the motor is still out and on the stand

66jack

Like it does in the picture you posted only cleaner..

BEFORE



AFTER

Downdraft

I like the look!

toddalin

I always thought that they looked better with the top shield in place, even if the lower shields are not used. It cleans up all of that wiring mess.

66jack

You will have to to remove the "ring" that holds wires on distributor to "adjust/move" around to get the shielding on over dist....just take your time and watch as you slide it over as to not slice wires....
Also watch out for the oil pressure line it might hit
Your wires on coil might need to be adjusted where they attach.

66jack