cleaned up an old grand sport style grille.....
#1
Le Mans Master
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cleaned up an old grand sport style grille.....
Now that I have the rust off the brackets and the paint overspray off the aluminum, I can cut holes in it for my bumper brackets.
This grille may be a little nicked up, but it's got to be a lot easier to keep clean than the 66 cross pattern grille.
#2
Does fill the hole grill opening?
Thanks
#3
Le Mans Master
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I got it as a "pay it forward" from a forum member who saw me post this pic (that I created to show the look I wanted) several months ago - when I was searching for an alternative grille:
Yes it does fill the hole, but the mounting brackets don't line up on one side (another mod after I cut bracket holes).
I just installed a new 66 grille less than 2 years ago, and I am REAALLYY tired of cleaning it after long trips. Can't wait to sell it.
Yes it does fill the hole, but the mounting brackets don't line up on one side (another mod after I cut bracket holes).
I just installed a new 66 grille less than 2 years ago, and I am REAALLYY tired of cleaning it after long trips. Can't wait to sell it.
#4
Instructor
Why not buy a regular 63 grille? While I understand the price is right for you with this one, but if you're going to run bumpers anyway. The no bumper cut-out grille would be quite desireable to those that don't run the front bumpers. You could likely offset the cost of a new grille nicely by selling the old one. I too would like to know the initial source of this grille you have...
#5
Why not buy a regular 63 grille? While I understand the price is right for you with this one, but if you're going to run bumpers anyway. The no bumper cut-out grille would be quite desireable to those that don't run the front bumpers. You could likely offset the cost of a new grille nicely by selling the old one. I too would like to know the initial source of this grille you have...
#6
Le Mans Master
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Why not buy a regular 63 grille? While I understand the price is right for you with this one, but if you're going to run bumpers anyway. The no bumper cut-out grille would be quite desireable to those that don't run the front bumpers. You could likely offset the cost of a new grille nicely by selling the old one. I too would like to know the initial source of this grille you have...
The point is moot. I made a jig to keep the metal aligned and the top and bottom bars protected today. The air cutter did the job.
PS I believe that the grille can be recreated from the top and bottom bars used in three 63-64 grilles. Nothing is impossible. A friend of mine (Jan Quaft) in Davenport IA makes the Mid America Industries Grand Sport II grilles. I'm sure he would be willing to provide a grille to fit the standard c2 opening. PM me for his phone number.
Last edited by magicv8; 04-18-2007 at 09:43 PM. Reason: ps
#9
Drifting
Magic,
I noticed some pictures on your web page that you use the nose bra on your C2. Do you like it? Any drawbacks? Is it friendly to the finish of your car? I have one for my 66 and I want to use it for long trips but I'm just not sure I want it over a new paint job.
Dennis
I noticed some pictures on your web page that you use the nose bra on your C2. Do you like it? Any drawbacks? Is it friendly to the finish of your car? I have one for my 66 and I want to use it for long trips but I'm just not sure I want it over a new paint job.
Dennis
#10
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Magic,
I noticed some pictures on your web page that you use the nose bra on your C2.
1 Do you like it?
2 Any drawbacks?
3 Is it friendly to the finish of your car? I have one for my 66 and I want to use it for long trips but I'm just not sure I want it over a new paint job.
Dennis
I noticed some pictures on your web page that you use the nose bra on your C2.
1 Do you like it?
2 Any drawbacks?
3 Is it friendly to the finish of your car? I have one for my 66 and I want to use it for long trips but I'm just not sure I want it over a new paint job.
Dennis
2 I had to modify the top piece to exclude the bumpers (I think Zip sells a Wolf version that does that), and add a chin piece to protect the valence panel. I remove the mask when I'm stopping overnight (on the road) and the car will be left out in a motel parking lot - where rain or heavy dew can run accumulated road dust/dirt back down the front fenders under the mask.
3 After a fresh paint job many (18?) years ago, I took a painter's advice and went west without it. In a WY bug storm, the nose got chipped. I don't leave home without it anymore. I had it on after the next fresh paint two years ago on Power Tour, and on several trips since then. The nose does not have the smallest scratch or blemish.
If you run at high speed (above 75), I recommend any alteration that may be necessary to keep it from lifting when semi trucks going in the opposite direction on 2 lane blacktop try to suck it off your car. I also put cotton squares under the nylon straps between the hood and nose, so the pull of the dirty straps doesn't scratch the back edge of the nose (at high speed).
I use Cleartastics behind the rear wheels to prevent high speed sand blasting. They work well but turn yellow after a while.
And the identity of the masked car is:
Last edited by magicv8; 04-20-2007 at 10:54 AM. Reason: pic added
#11
Drifting
1 Yes, absolutely. I never leave town without it.
2 I had to modify the top piece to exclude the bumpers (I think Zip sells a Wolf version that does that), and add a chin piece to protect the valence panel. I remove the mask when I'm stopping overnight (on the road) and the car will be left out in a motel parking lot - where rain or heavy dew can run accumulated road dust/dirt back down the front fenders under the mask.
3 After a fresh paint job many (18?) years ago, I took a painter's advice and went west without it. In a WY bug storm, the nose got chipped. I don't leave home without it anymore. I had it on after the next fresh paint two years ago on Power Tour, and on several trips since then. The nose does not have the smallest scratch or blemish.
If you run at high speed (above 75), I recommend any alteration that may be necessary to keep it from lifting when semi trucks going in the opposite direction on 2 lane blacktop try to suck it off your car. I also put cotton squares under the nylon straps between the hood and nose, so the pull of the dirty straps doesn't scratch the back edge of the nose (at high speed).
I use Cleartastics behind the rear wheels to prevent high speed sand blasting. They work well but turn yellow after a while.
And the identity of the masked car is:
2 I had to modify the top piece to exclude the bumpers (I think Zip sells a Wolf version that does that), and add a chin piece to protect the valence panel. I remove the mask when I'm stopping overnight (on the road) and the car will be left out in a motel parking lot - where rain or heavy dew can run accumulated road dust/dirt back down the front fenders under the mask.
3 After a fresh paint job many (18?) years ago, I took a painter's advice and went west without it. In a WY bug storm, the nose got chipped. I don't leave home without it anymore. I had it on after the next fresh paint two years ago on Power Tour, and on several trips since then. The nose does not have the smallest scratch or blemish.
If you run at high speed (above 75), I recommend any alteration that may be necessary to keep it from lifting when semi trucks going in the opposite direction on 2 lane blacktop try to suck it off your car. I also put cotton squares under the nylon straps between the hood and nose, so the pull of the dirty straps doesn't scratch the back edge of the nose (at high speed).
I use Cleartastics behind the rear wheels to prevent high speed sand blasting. They work well but turn yellow after a while.
And the identity of the masked car is:
Great! I always wondered how it would lay at higher speeds. I pictured it flapping in the air.
Dennis