bigblock66vette

I have the struts, spring, wheels, shocks removed and the front bolt out of the rear end support located right under the drive shaft. I supported the rear-end with a jack and took out the two bolts (one on each side) of the support that the rear-end bolts to. I let a little presser off the rear-end and it is still supported by something. I can shake it but it looks like it is hung up on the rubber bushings on the support where I removed the two single bolts. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW I CAN GET THIS REAR END TO DROP??? I can't figure it out and I have to leave right now. So I hope someone can help me out with this delima before tomorrow. Thanks

William R. :)

Kid_Again

....oh yeah, btdt....the third member that you pulled the bolts from is actually held in by a compression fit to "sombrero" bushings/mounts on the other side from where you pulled the bolts...that's why the diff is just hanging there...it's hanging from the rubber mounts......


...i can't tell from your post if you have dropped the diff yet BUT you now need to.....you have way too much suspended weight otherwise..remove the bolts that connect the diff to the rear cover and then lower the diff (nose end) on a floor jack...then, you can drop the third member/diff cover the way i did in my post "droppin the diff II" or use a BIG butt'ol pry bar to loosen each end of the third member...just make sure you have something to catch the diff cover...check a chassis service manual first, if you have one :yesnod: :yesnod:


[Modified by Kid_Again, 5:15 PM 10/15/2001]

magicv8

The pry bar recommended for the job (by an NCRS black hat) is the second largest green prybar available at Orchard supply. I had my sister in law drag one out to CO from CA last summer. I have seen recommendations for several days of wd40 soaking on the bushings with a drywall bucket under the pumpkin (to catch it).

wombvette

If you take it apart without breaking the pumpkin open it aint so messy.

Its easy really. Just put those two bolts back in a couple of threads so it will not fall all the way out and use a big butt prybar to pry the mounts loose.

paul_64conv

I just did this. The big rubber bushings stick to the mounts on the frame. My trick was to spray some 409 or other soapy cleaner on top of the bushings, between the cross piece and the frame. The soap will work it's way down around the rubber bushing and loosen things up in a few hours. Also, from the side I was able to slip in a long pry bar. It was not brute force but more pry a little here, a little there, jack it up a little, drop it some, etc. until it slowly loosened up and came down. What a relief.

bigblock66vette

Thanks everyone. I will try all the tricks tomorrow morning. I will post my results. I knew I could count on you guys. Thanks again. :D

Kid_Again

btw...nice ride :cool:

bigblock66vette

What a pain in the butt. I finaly got it apart. Just like you all said. It took some muscle though. I found out what was broken in the rear end. The posi case was only half there. The rest was floating around in the housing. It ended up chipping several pieces off the pinion, and seperated the posi unit completely from the ring gear. So I am getting the entire rearend built to stage 3 from Vette Parts in FL. This stage 3 is supposed to hold 600+ HP. I should be good to go. I will get a couple pictures tomorrow of the broken parts before I box it up for shipment. Thanks again all for al your help.

William Robbins
Loiuisville, KY :chevy

jims427

Last year I swapped my 3:08 pumpkin for a 4:11 pumpkin, so I appreciate the pain in going through the process. You mentioned that you were sending your rear end to Vette Parts in Florida for a strenghtening rebuild. What is involved in that process and will you send me their phone number/ website or address. I have a 1966 427/425 coupe and would like to ensure that the rear end stays together before I bolt on a set of slicks.

bigblock66vette

Vette Parts
375 SE 2nd Ave.
Delray Beach, FL 33483

1-800-327-1166

They bought out Florida Caliper and a few other places like that. The rear they are building for me, after talking with Carl today, should hold about 800 HP and be no problem for my daily driven street rocket...Believe this though...I will be putting it to the test to see if it can hold all that is claimed on a daily basis. Sorry thats just how I am :)

William Robbins :yesnod:

Ih2lose

Sorry I could not help you get it out (I did not read your post) But I just completed a rear end rebuild also.Are you going to rebuild your trailing arm bushings your self.If yes I got a tool from corvette central that made the replacement of the bushings easy cost around $70.00.I was told if you use the poly bushings you don't need the tool.I bought a extra set of the rear trailing arm bushing sleaves in case I made a mistake installing them and they came in handy I did make a mistake and I did have to use them.Also on re installing the rear spring there was a great procidure I found on the N.C.R.S board arcives I followed that and had no problems( I heard alot about how easy it is to crack rear housing)Good luck and have fun

bigblock66vette

THanks. I am most likely going to switch out all the rear end components. I am upgrading to the Vette Brakes and Products mono-leaf rear end and their mono leaf front end. They claim that with 255/50/16's and their kit you can achieve a 1.1G with a small block. Sounds good to me.

Again thanks for the advice. :)