fuel injection set up without manometer ?
11-29-2010, 01:00 PM
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11-29-2010, 02:24 PM
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11-29-2010, 05:44 PM
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11-29-2010, 05:54 PM
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Boy they are a little pricey!
I think I'll just get one anyway.
Thanks Jim.
11-29-2010, 07:36 PM
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You can use a fuel pressure gauge in place of the manometer, but you will need to find a custom gauge that reads in tenths of pounds just as hard to find as a manometer... lol.
Just another 2 cents...
- I agree that messing with the rich/lean stops is usually the downfall of these units.
- The idle air screw and mixture screw can be adjusted but if you are making excessive turns without much difference then they are out of phase. There is a base setting for these that I cannot remember of the top of my head. Maybe someone can help.
- Once these cars are warm it is almost a given that throttle is needed for them to start.
- Extended cranking is always normal after sitting for a few days.
- You should set the choke when starting cold, I have worked on a half dozen or so 58-62 units and the later ones have a vacuum valve inside the choke that actuates the cold cranking valve. Sounds like there may be an issue in there some where or in the cold cranking valve itself. Those can be tested with a mitivac... If I remember correctly it should pull it off the stop at 3psi??? again, maybe someone can help.
All in all, if it seems to run well and just needs a little help when starting, you could probably leave it alone. Good luck and ENJOY!
just as hard to find as a manometer... lol.Just another 2 cents...
- I agree that messing with the rich/lean stops is usually the downfall of these units.
- The idle air screw and mixture screw can be adjusted but if you are making excessive turns without much difference then they are out of phase. There is a base setting for these that I cannot remember of the top of my head. Maybe someone can help.
- Once these cars are warm it is almost a given that throttle is needed for them to start.
- Extended cranking is always normal after sitting for a few days.
- You should set the choke when starting cold, I have worked on a half dozen or so 58-62 units and the later ones have a vacuum valve inside the choke that actuates the cold cranking valve. Sounds like there may be an issue in there some where or in the cold cranking valve itself. Those can be tested with a mitivac... If I remember correctly it should pull it off the stop at 3psi??? again, maybe someone can help.
All in all, if it seems to run well and just needs a little help when starting, you could probably leave it alone. Good luck and ENJOY!
11-29-2010, 08:42 PM
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Similarly, if the Idle Fuel screw has little to no effect, in particular if you can't stall the engine by screwing it all the way in, the throttle plate stop screw could be mis-adjusted. It's also possible the check valve in the spider is stuck open.
... 58-62 units and the later ones have a vacuum valve inside the choke that actuates the cold cranking valve. Sounds like there may be an issue in there some where or in the cold cranking valve itself.
Jim
11-29-2010, 08:50 PM
#27
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Just a quick question... what makes some of the early untis "flare-up" when on the choke as a sort of warning to kick her down. Only had a '58 and a '59 unit that did this, but was told it was correct by the rebuilder?
11-29-2010, 09:31 PM
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FI engines need cold enrichment for only a few seconds but the design of the Cold Enrichment Mechanism on the early FI units results in several minutes of (excess) enrichment. For most of the time Cold Enrichment is turned on, the engine is running excessively rich..... around 11:1 AFR, and sometimes even less. When the Ratio Lever is finally allowed to transition, the AFR leans out to around 13:1 and the engine is much happier.
On my own units, I have cold enrichment completely disabled, but fast idle still functions. Once in a while I have to cold start twice before the engine remains running. Not a big deal to me.
Jim
11-29-2010, 09:56 PM
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Yep, that's the one-------------I told you they were a little pricy. Oh ya, that Summit price is as good as you are likely to find.
The company that makes them is Motion Pro, and it's called a 90-degree 1/4" hex driver.
As I mentioned, I wanted one bad enough that I paid the price!!! I've used it numerous times and I love it!
Tom Parsons
11-30-2010, 03:40 AM
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Mike,
Yep, that's the one-------------I told you they were a little pricy. Oh ya, that Summit price is as good as you are likely to find.
The company that makes them is Motion Pro, and it's called a 90-degree 1/4" hex driver.
As I mentioned, I wanted one bad enough that I paid the price!!! I've used it numerous times and I love it!
Tom Parsons
Yep, that's the one-------------I told you they were a little pricy. Oh ya, that Summit price is as good as you are likely to find.
The company that makes them is Motion Pro, and it's called a 90-degree 1/4" hex driver.
As I mentioned, I wanted one bad enough that I paid the price!!! I've used it numerous times and I love it!
Tom Parsons
11-30-2010, 07:04 AM
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Tom, how do you retain the bit in the holder? The bits that came with mine were magnetic.... they stay in by themselves. But the bit I use on the fuel meter set screws isn't magnetic and I use a dollop of goop [technical term] to keep the bit in place. You got something that works better?
Jim
Jim
11-30-2010, 08:00 AM
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11-30-2010, 03:39 PM
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11-30-2010, 03:52 PM
#34
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$70 +/- plus shipping is about as cheap as they get from what I saw.
I had one ordered this AM before the sun came up!
I had one ordered this AM before the sun came up!
02-27-2011, 09:55 AM
#35
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Fuel Stops Tool
Tom
Did you make this tool or purchase it? If you bought it who made it? Thanks Steve
Did you make this tool or purchase it? If you bought it who made it? Thanks Steve
02-27-2011, 12:37 PM
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Stevebike, see postings #23 and #33 in this thread for sources of the tool in the pictures.
Jim
Jim
01-01-2023, 10:59 PM
#37
Jim/Tom…..
Obviously this an old thread but is there any chance this tool can be used to adjust points ( dwell) on my 57 chev with the 63 FI unit. The back of the plenum is too close to even get an “ L” shaped Allen wrench in the adjusting screw.
May have my dist in wrong location but a birds eye view from the rear, # 1 is roughly 12:30/1:00 location.
Thought this tool of atoms’ might snake in there??
01-02-2023, 12:07 AM
#38
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Jerry,
There is, or at least used to be, an EXCELLENT tool specifically for this purpose.
It is several inches long (8-10in or so), has a screwdriver style handle on one end and the correct size Allen wrench on the other end to fit the hex hole in the points. Between the handle and the Allen wrench, the shaft is like a flexible speedometer cable.
There is, or at least used to be, an EXCELLENT tool specifically for this purpose.
It is several inches long (8-10in or so), has a screwdriver style handle on one end and the correct size Allen wrench on the other end to fit the hex hole in the points. Between the handle and the Allen wrench, the shaft is like a flexible speedometer cable.
01-02-2023, 10:21 AM
#39
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Jerry,
There is, or at least used to be, an EXCELLENT tool specifically for this purpose.
It is several inches long (8-10in or so), has a screwdriver style handle on one end and the correct size Allen wrench on the other end to fit the hex hole in the points. Between the handle and the Allen wrench, the shaft is like a flexible speedometer cable.
There is, or at least used to be, an EXCELLENT tool specifically for this purpose.
It is several inches long (8-10in or so), has a screwdriver style handle on one end and the correct size Allen wrench on the other end to fit the hex hole in the points. Between the handle and the Allen wrench, the shaft is like a flexible speedometer cable.
01-02-2023, 10:50 AM
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That's the tool.