kbuhagiar

Hello folks,

The UPS guy just delivered my new Motive Products PowerBleeder tool, and I'm ready to do the brakes on my 63.

Two questions:

1) All of the brake components are brand new, from the master cylinder to the lines to the wheel cylinders. Do I still have to bench bleed the MC, or can I just bolt it up to the firewall and start bleeding?

2) What is the proper bleed sequence at the wheels? Do I start bleeding at the nearest (LF) or at the farthest (RR) from the MC?

Thanks in advance!

SPLITRAY

YES you do need to bench bleed the M/C.

30+ years ago I learned in college that you start with the farthest then work to the shortest. Then I've seen this issue brought up here and heard it the opposite way. There is a thread somewhere on this forum, but I think the outcome was split 50/50.

PurplePackFan

I believe you start from the farthest, right-rear and end up at the left-front/closest.

Let me know how your bleeder works. I have the same unit and could not get it to seal on my '67 M/C. It is the dual reservoir type and the flat plate would not seal. W ent through two quarts of fluid and no luck. Maybe too tight?? Anyway, ended up doing it the old fashioned way just to get er dunn.

John

kbuhagiar

Hello, John,

My kit came with both the dual reservoir adapter and the single round adapter. I will be using the single round adapter to fit on my single reservoir MC.

BADBIRDCAGE

I was always taught to bleed from the fartherst to the nearest. UNTIL I purchased a vacum bleeder. The instructions with it said start nearest the master cylinder and work away from it. Makes sense, as you are drawing air out immediately, then nothing but fluid from the master cylinder through the lines. Just keep the master cylinder level UP.

Have continued to bleed from the closest to the master cylinder to the farthest for over 10 years now with no regrets and no problems.

Rich

JohnZ

I've had mine for several years, best money I ever spent for a tool; makes bleeding a ten-minute one-person job. I didn't care for their chain-and-hook arrangement to hold the adapter on, so I use a 6"-long piece of 1-1/2" square aluminum tubing I had left over from another project and a 6" C-clamp instead - works great.

65nassau

You picked the right place to ask about that tool.

That's one of John's favorites!

I have seen that pic so many times I can't walk past a c-clamp in my garage without thinking about John clamping that rascal to the M/C.

Thanks John!

PurplePackFan

JohnZ-Thanks for the idea. I had thought about figuring out some other way to clamp it, just ran out of time and a buddy was available to assist so I did it the old fashioned way. I still have confidence in the tool, just ran out of time. It worked fine on other M/Cs, but the big dual M/C needs a little extra "attention".

Regards,

John

ffas23

GM says to start bleeding your calipers on the C-2 and C-3 at the driver side rear inner and outer bleeders then to proceed to the passenger side rear inner and outer bleeders then up to the front passenger side caliper bleeder onto the front drivers side bleeder. As John Z says a 10 minute job. Takes me around 20 minutes since I go around twice just to make sure all is well. I have used my Motive bleeder on both my C-2 and C-3 Corvettes. Best pedal I ever had on both cars and best tool I ever purchased for my cars. As I have mentioned in the past on this forum no need to beg my wife or daughter anymore to help out manually bleeding the cars. By the way Johns idea of replacing the factory hold down chain with a C-Clamp and block of wood or metal is the only way to go. I learned this a couple of years ago from John Z after sending my first Motive bleeder back to the manufacturer because of the chains stretching causing the bottom of the adapter to leak brake fluid out of the top of my master cylinder all over my frame on my C-3. Lucky for me when the mess happened I was using Dot 5 Silicone brake fluid but it was an expensive lost of fluid. I actually use two 6" C-Clamps with a block of wood now the same length as the top of the adapter on my Corvette Master Cylinder. That trick is the only way to go when sealing the Motive Adapter to the master cylinder of a 67'-82' Corvette. Motive knows of this problem with their cheap hold down chain. I am surprised by now they don't list this alternative way of clamping the adapter down in their directions. I brought this to their attention a couple of years ago when I purchased my 2nd Motive Bleeder after talking to John Z about it on this forum.

DansYellow66

Where is a source for purchase of this bleeding tool? Will Google bring them up?

Dan

ffas23

Dan,
I actually found mine listed on Ebay. The company selling it there is either from Conn. or Mass.
Add on.
Here is the exact kit you need for a C-2 to C-3 Corvette 67' on up right here at this link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-...spagenameZWD1V

The only thing is the price is higher then what I paid a couple of years ago. You may want to shop this same kit around.

ffas23

Dan,
Here is the link to the exact place where I purchased my Motive Brake Bleeder from. They use to sell it on Ebay but I don't see them doing it now. None the less they have a better price then the one at the other link I posted previously. Here is the link: http://www.trackhaus.com/component/p...mart/Itemid,1/

Here you can buy the kit for $53.96 plus shipping.

JohnZ

www.motiveproducts.com

DansYellow66

Thanks guys

Dan