C1 window removal
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '15
C1 window removal
Anyone point me in the right direction for getting the windows and all the trim out of the doors? I am sure there is a right way and a wrong way and since I am probably heading down the wrong way....thought I would ask....I did a search but came up empty....HELP!
thanks
thanks
#2
Le Mans Master
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ok...got the window out...does the window mechanism need to come out? if so, how the heck do you get it out of there? the window crank shaft is in the way of getting the entire mechanism out....there must be a way, what did people do to rebuild those things?
Also, what about the door posts? I took out three screws, but you would think that sucker would come out...but no....so where are all the screws at the need to come out to make bugger come out of here?
Herb
Also, what about the door posts? I took out three screws, but you would think that sucker would come out...but no....so where are all the screws at the need to come out to make bugger come out of here?
Herb
#3
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ok....figured out the door posts...bubba had fiberglassed over the end bolt and it was not visible.
so I still need to know...does the window mechanism come out with a major hernia? or just leave it in????
so I still need to know...does the window mechanism come out with a major hernia? or just leave it in????
#5
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ok...got the driver door gutted...but the passenger window is being a pain...got the 4 screws out that hold it to the mechanism...but it wont come out....maybe I am too tired to fuss any more with it today...but any hints would be appreciated.....and whoever design this monster...well...never mind...but if you have worked on one of these you know what I mean......let me know tricks for getting this sob out!
thanks, Herb
thanks, Herb
#6
Race Director
Herb - Take a break, you've been working too hard. If the part is loose and you can move it around in the shell, maybe it needs to be moved by the crank like the window is going up or down so that it take a different shape so that it will come out of the hole.
#7
Safety Car
Herb,
The regulator will only come out in only one position. I believe that that position is the fully down position, but I would have to have one in front of me to be sure. The door posts were installed like that at the factory! They were installed after the car was painted. The post was installed, and then the bolt was put in the hole you are refering to, then the cavity was filled with dum-dum to a alevel of about 1/4" shy of being full. Then the hole was filled with bonding adhesive and sanded after setting. The plug of bonding adhesive was then spot-painted, and the weatherstrip was installed. It was kind of crude, but that was the way it was done. The plugs are very easy to remove with a hammer and screwdriver, since the dum-dum is soft and allows you to chisel it out pretty easily.
Regards, John McGraw
The regulator will only come out in only one position. I believe that that position is the fully down position, but I would have to have one in front of me to be sure. The door posts were installed like that at the factory! They were installed after the car was painted. The post was installed, and then the bolt was put in the hole you are refering to, then the cavity was filled with dum-dum to a alevel of about 1/4" shy of being full. Then the hole was filled with bonding adhesive and sanded after setting. The plug of bonding adhesive was then spot-painted, and the weatherstrip was installed. It was kind of crude, but that was the way it was done. The plugs are very easy to remove with a hammer and screwdriver, since the dum-dum is soft and allows you to chisel it out pretty easily.
Regards, John McGraw
#8
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
Herb,
The regulator will only come out in only one position. I believe that that position is the fully down position, but I would have to have one in front of me to be sure. The door posts were installed like that at the factory! They were installed after the car was painted. The post was installed, and then the bolt was put in the hole you are refering to, then the cavity was filled with dum-dum to a alevel of about 1/4" shy of being full. Then the hole was filled with bonding adhesive and sanded after setting. The plug of bonding adhesive was then spot-painted, and the weatherstrip was installed. It was kind of crude, but that was the way it was done. The plugs are very easy to remove with a hammer and screwdriver, since the dum-dum is soft and allows you to chisel it out pretty easily.
Regards, John McGraw
The regulator will only come out in only one position. I believe that that position is the fully down position, but I would have to have one in front of me to be sure. The door posts were installed like that at the factory! They were installed after the car was painted. The post was installed, and then the bolt was put in the hole you are refering to, then the cavity was filled with dum-dum to a alevel of about 1/4" shy of being full. Then the hole was filled with bonding adhesive and sanded after setting. The plug of bonding adhesive was then spot-painted, and the weatherstrip was installed. It was kind of crude, but that was the way it was done. The plugs are very easy to remove with a hammer and screwdriver, since the dum-dum is soft and allows you to chisel it out pretty easily.
Regards, John McGraw
#9
Race Director
To get the window out, I think you have to remove the moulding on the door and then there is a stop with rubber bumpers that I think has to be removed (it prevents the window front ratteling). Once you remove the moulding it makes it easier to see and get at these parts. To get the moulding off (I'm doing this from memory so might not be exact) you unscrew the end piece of the molding at the rear of the door, then you slide the two strips back (molding clips hold them in place). The don't pop off, they slide off
#10
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Once you have the door panel off, roll the window down.
Remove the two phillips screws (large phillips head with star washers on them) that hold the rail the window slides on (a slightly curved rail that is a "stand alone", in other words, it is not part of the window crank mechanism but is bolted to the door by itself), and take this rail out.
The window should now be free to come out - crank it up a little and work it off the window gear mechanism. Once the glass is out, take out the window gear. I believe the gear needs to be completely down to come out.
Installation is the opposite with this stand alone rail going in last. Take pictures or make a diagram becasue it is harder to put in than take out.
Good luck
Remove the two phillips screws (large phillips head with star washers on them) that hold the rail the window slides on (a slightly curved rail that is a "stand alone", in other words, it is not part of the window crank mechanism but is bolted to the door by itself), and take this rail out.
The window should now be free to come out - crank it up a little and work it off the window gear mechanism. Once the glass is out, take out the window gear. I believe the gear needs to be completely down to come out.
Installation is the opposite with this stand alone rail going in last. Take pictures or make a diagram becasue it is harder to put in than take out.
Good luck
#11
Burning Brakes
I'm pretty sure that the window should go in first and come out last. With everything out (including the posts) you turn it 90 deg with the bottom facing the front of the car and it comes straight up without flexing the top of the door. Putting the mother in without scratching the newly polished stainless around the glass ... well thats another story!
#12
Le Mans Master
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Originally Posted by JohnFromVentura
Putting the mother in without scratching the newly polished stainless around the glass ... well thats another story!
#13
Burning Brakes
Hints, make sure you install the rubber drip molding on the glass orientated correctly.
They have a cutout that must be correct or you will be removing them again. (Don't ask how I know this)
Also, I purchased a rubber coated clamp (20" I think) to press the molding back onto the glass and it worked well.
LP
They have a cutout that must be correct or you will be removing them again. (Don't ask how I know this)
Also, I purchased a rubber coated clamp (20" I think) to press the molding back onto the glass and it worked well.
LP
#14
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Originally Posted by Larry P
Hints, make sure you install the rubber drip molding on the glass orientated correctly.
They have a cutout that must be correct or you will be removing them again. (Don't ask how I know this)
Also, I purchased a rubber coated clamp (20" I think) to press the molding back onto the glass and it worked well.
LP
They have a cutout that must be correct or you will be removing them again. (Don't ask how I know this)
Also, I purchased a rubber coated clamp (20" I think) to press the molding back onto the glass and it worked well.
LP
Also when I get it to the top, while the driver door did not have a rubber drip molding on the glass bottom facing OUT, it seems that the passenger glass has a drip molding on the bottom. How does that come off? Can I pull it off while in the door or does it need to come off when I get the window out....so back so same originial problem, getting the blasted window out of the door......after the car is painted and all set with fresh trim, I can hardly wait to put it back together....I will need extra towels to dry up my perspiration....for sure....I will do a lot of that when it goes back together.....
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#15
Race Director
Herb - As I noted before did you remove all the molding, the little do-hicky with the rubber stopper and the whiskers? If so there should be nothing that would prevent the window from coming out easily.
Also, did you disconnect the window from the regulator? You can't get both out together
Also, did you disconnect the window from the regulator? You can't get both out together
#16
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
Herb - As I noted before did you remove all the molding, the little do-hicky with the rubber stopper and the whiskers? If so there should be nothing that would prevent the window from coming out easily.
Also, did you disconnect the window from the regulator? You can't get both out together
Also, did you disconnect the window from the regulator? You can't get both out together
#17
Race Director
can you feel around to get an idea of what is preventing it form coming out. Did you try shifting it to different angles? Sometimes getting it up as far as you can and then angeling it towards the inside or even outside of the car will clear the hole. Is the rear runner out of unit?
#18
Burning Brakes
I agree with John, as I remember, tilt the front down and the rear will come out first with the bottom toward the rear where the opening is wider. There is a guide on the rear of the door that is also an adjustment that you may need to loosen or remove. The screws are accessable from the outside rear of the door.
Larry
Larry
Last edited by Larry P; 09-18-2006 at 08:08 PM.
#19
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Originally Posted by Larry P
I agree with John, as I remember, tilt the front down and the rear will come out first with the bottom toward the rear where the opening is wider. There is a guide on the rear of the door that is also an adjustment that you may need to loosen or remove. The screws are accessable from the outside rear of the door.
Larry
Larry
thanks...Herb
#20
Race Director
The rear channel guide needs to come out. If the fasteners are off, it might just be stuck on the window itself - rust, gook, all sorts of things might be holding it. Try to put it back on with the fasteners loose and see if you can wiggle the window off of it. If the window is off already maybe the channel is just stuck to the body and needs some gentle persuading