ammeter gauge
08-03-2006, 02:16 PM
#1
Racer
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ammeter gauge
My ammeter hasn't worked since i've had the car. I am replacing all 3 of the major harnesses. Light, ignition, and dash. As i look at the back of the dash at the ammeter gauge it appears to be loose to the touch but the attaching screws that hold the connectors appear tight. the gauge above it has a stud below the two connectors but the ammeter gauge only has a hole with what appears to be plastic below it. Should i just wish on a star and put the dash back in to see if it works with the new harnesses installed or buy another one while its apart? Any way to test an ammeter? Maybe by applying two positive leads up from two different batteries to see if it deflects? my last question is when the capacitor comes in for it, to what wire do i attach it? "t" slice it in? please help me. thanks Bob
08-03-2006, 02:28 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
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Sounds like a question for the "Instrument Wizard," Jason Oliver.
He worked wonders on several of my instruments, as he has for myriads of Forum members. My ammeter had a few rather wierd behavioral conditions, which Jason set right within a few days.
I believe his email address is VetteInstruments@aol.com.
Hopefully he'll weigh in to answer your question.
If you need to send the ammeter off for repair, he's "da man."
He worked wonders on several of my instruments, as he has for myriads of Forum members. My ammeter had a few rather wierd behavioral conditions, which Jason set right within a few days.
I believe his email address is VetteInstruments@aol.com.
Hopefully he'll weigh in to answer your question.
If you need to send the ammeter off for repair, he's "da man."
08-03-2006, 02:30 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Jason Oliver can help you with new instruments. They make a world of difference in appearance and function. One of those...while I'm there things.
08-03-2006, 02:40 PM
#4
alright lets see here .....first the answer is YES you can check the battery gauge with a simple square 9 volt battery ...a 9 volt is easy to use and you won't run the risk of smoking the gauge if it isn't already.
Two wires 12v and Ground and one to one and tap the other terminal.The gauge won't jump real far but it should move a tad if it moves at all the gauge is GOOD.Then if it doesn't the gauge is bad.
The capacitor goes on the far left terminal (looking at the gauge from the drivers seat)....right terminal from behind or leaning under the dash.
if you need anything else
email me
Jason
VetteInstruments@aol.com
Two wires 12v and Ground and one to one and tap the other terminal.The gauge won't jump real far but it should move a tad if it moves at all the gauge is GOOD.Then if it doesn't the gauge is bad.
The capacitor goes on the far left terminal (looking at the gauge from the drivers seat)....right terminal from behind or leaning under the dash.
if you need anything else
email me
Jason
VetteInstruments@aol.com
08-03-2006, 03:21 PM
#5
Racer
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thanks for your help with the capacitor question mr oliver. I didn't quite catch your explaination on how to test the ammeter. Can you rephrase your response please? thanks
08-03-2006, 03:47 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
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Originally Posted by vetarun
I didn't quite catch your explaination on how to test the ammeter. Can you rephrase your response please? thanks
IMO if the needle doesn't move, it probably has a hole burned in the wire winding. IMO in that case you have nothing to lose by removing the back cover from the Battery meter and checking to see if the burned spot is where you can fix it with a small soldering iron.
08-03-2006, 04:00 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
The wirings on the gauge on my '64 was burned through and I was able to remove the wire windings and rewind them with new magnetic wire. It's just a matter of getting the right size/kind of wire and counting the number of turns as you pull it off. (I seem to recall it was only about 23 turns.)
I still have the spool around and can send you some wire (what I used) if you can't get it.
You don't specify your year, but on the 63-64 gauges the wire is easily accessable. It might be more difficult on the later flat faced gauges, but if your coild is burned through, what have you got to loose?
As an alternative, when the gauge on my '70 fried, Steve LuVisi (of Overhaulin' fame) was able to mate the existing face and needle to a later gauge and re-rivet it so there was no NCRS deduction. THis could be an alternative.
I still have the spool around and can send you some wire (what I used) if you can't get it.
You don't specify your year, but on the 63-64 gauges the wire is easily accessable. It might be more difficult on the later flat faced gauges, but if your coild is burned through, what have you got to loose?
As an alternative, when the gauge on my '70 fried, Steve LuVisi (of Overhaulin' fame) was able to mate the existing face and needle to a later gauge and re-rivet it so there was no NCRS deduction. THis could be an alternative.
08-03-2006, 04:06 PM
#9
Racer
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lol. i'm not too worried about ncrs deductions. I bought a fix-er-uper and i'm just trying to make it a pleasant driver. its a blk 65 cpe with a NOM but i have the original block freshly machined to put in when funds allow. thanks for all the help today.
08-03-2006, 06:28 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by vetarun
9 volt battery moved the needle all the way to the right. when i reversed it , it went all the way to the left. good?
08-03-2006, 07:25 PM
#13
Gauge is fine then.....start chasing the wires.
Also there has been many on here saying that the bulkhead connection/horn relay is a good place to start
since your gauge is good you'll need to hook a meter up to the wires going in a see what they're giving out.
Jason
Also there has been many on here saying that the bulkhead connection/horn relay is a good place to start
since your gauge is good you'll need to hook a meter up to the wires going in a see what they're giving out.
Jason
