64Ragtop

How hard is it to pull the Muncie and change out the throwout bearing? Has anybody done
this before? It doesn't look like there's much room in the tunnel.
Thanks, Kent.

magicv8

With the car on jack stands, drop exhausts and park cable (at the pivot bolt). Remove 4 nuts from front Ujoint - wrap tape around it to keep the caps on - rest the drive shaft on a thick rag on the cross member. Support the engine with a U shaped jig to straddle the pan (made mine from wood) on a sizzors jack (assuming the car is on jack stands) - then remove the rear motor mount and exhaust bracket. Remove the shifter and back up switch (put the switch bracket bolts back or the trans will leak).

Disconnect the clutch linkage, loosen the 6 bolts to the engine on the front motor mounts (optionally remove 2 on each side) - unbolt the Muncie with a jack under it and slide it back. Change the bearing. If you cannot get enough room, lower the engine a little at the rear and remove the clutch housing.

These instructions are a modified version of the instructions in the service manual.



[Modified by magicmachines, 4:22 PM 8/30/2001]

wernerreis

magic,

this sounds easier than the way i did it which was by using the factory manual.. did you lower the rear of the engine by disconnecting it from all engine mounts and then lifting the front of it by using the oil pan in order to let the rear drop down a bit. it would definately be easir to remove and replace the trannie if the rear of the engine were a little lower. please let me know. :confused:

magicv8

Hello Werner. I pivot the engine on the front bolt that holds the motor mounts to the block - of the three on each motor mount - by removing the other two bolts on each mount and loosening the front ones a little. Remove your fan and disconnect your tach drive, if the clearance isn't there to lower the engine (enough to make the job easy). I work with the car on jackstands, and created a U shaped jig out of 3 pieces of wood 2x4 with 2 small plywood triangle reinforcements. It only took 20 minutes to make the jig ten years ago, and it leaves your oil pan with its normal capacity (no expensive dents). The U straddles the oil pan - just in front of the clutch housing. A sizzors jack under the U is the best way to lower the block - since it allows the best control and slowest change of height, and it can't leak down if left overnight. If you can't find a cheap sizzors jack at an outo store, try a junk yard. Lots of cars use them.

wernerreis

magicmachine

thanks for the info. i had a hard time RE-INSTALLING the trannie until paul, in florida, told me the trick is to lift the rear of it into the tunnel and rotate it so the top goes to the drivers side. when i did that, it slipped right in. unfortunately, i tried about a thousand times before i had sense enough to ask for help, and each time the intake shaft would not clear the bell housing. grrrr.... and that m__her is very heavy, don't you know it. hope i never have to do the job again. must say that the trannie i rebuilt and the clutch and throw out and pilot bearing all work fine after three thousand miles. hope i die of old age before they give out again.
best, werner :jester

magicv8

Yes it IS heavy. I did it my 66 the first ten times without a trans jack . Two years ago I sprung for one on sale in a JCWhitney catalog - I am in mechanic's heaven. I used to be able to do cast iron transmissions without a jack (in the 60s - when these cars were new), and if I don't have enough foot to carry an aluminum case around, I am willing to admit it. at least I still do my own installs. The only thing better than working on an old Corvette is driving one.

The other good trick is to get some long bolts that screw into the clutch housing, cut the heads off and use the screwed in studs to slide it home aligned. If it sticks at the very end, hook up the clutch linkage and put the clutch in. That last half inch can be a bit$h.