Will this engine qualify as #'s matching?
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Will this engine qualify as #'s matching?
For my 66, vin 104635, production date 11/2/65
427 -390 hp 3869942 block, with I-22-5, heads dated I-15-5, intake I-14-5.
427 -390 hp 3869942 block, with I-22-5, heads dated I-15-5, intake I-14-5.
#2
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here we go agian. matching numbers can go two ways. one the easy one the motor has all date coded parts within a week(I think) match like the block, heads, intake, water pump, and so on. then you got that above plus the stamp pad matches the vin number and all other parts will match the date codes, like the rad, overflow tank, alt, dist, starter, and so on. the NCRS will allow the motor made 6 months poir to the cars build date.
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had my 265 that was 060 over bored out to a 283, magna flux and rebuilder said wall are thick enough, put new 283 NOS pistons in it and a duntov cam, get it back this week. from what i under stand that is how duntov did it, 265 bored to 283 and this cam for his 56 racer.
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Originally Posted by BarryK
what's the numbers on the stamp pad on the block?
#7
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Originally Posted by 56blkcomback
had my 265 that was 060 over bored out to a 283, magna flux and rebuilder said wall are thick enough, put new 283 NOS pistons in it and a duntov cam, get it back this week. from what i under stand that is how duntov did it, 265 bored to 283 and this cam for his 56 racer.
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Originally Posted by vintagecorvette
Is the car an original BB car?
#9
Melting Slicks
Question - is the remainder of the car OPRIGINAL? in other words, are the remaining parts on the car in question #'s matching? do they all have the ORIGINAL VIN on them, such as the frame, the tail of transmission, etc.? if they are all #'s matching, then I wouldn't even worry about decking the stamp pad if the broach marks are good! why screw with the broach marks - how far off is the VIN from your car's VIN? if you are going to get it NCRS judged, would take the hit on VIN derivative (think 35 point hit), rather than losing possible all points screwing with the stamp pad (think 88 points)
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Originally Posted by mdz06vetter
Question - is the remainder of the car OPRIGINAL? in other words, are the remaining parts on the car in question #'s matching? do they all have the ORIGINAL VIN on them, such as the frame, the tail of transmission, etc.? if they are all #'s matching, then I wouldn't even worry about decking the stamp pad if the broach marks are good! why screw with the broach marks - how far off is the VIN from your car's VIN? if you are going to get it NCRS judged, would take the hit on VIN derivative (think 35 point hit), rather than losing possible all points screwing with the stamp pad (think 88 points)
I called another local shop. Sometime this week I will get the rear end numbers.
#11
Melting Slicks
next question - you building for your driving pleasure or are you attempting a restoration for NCRS judging? exactly, what are your plans for the car? will help us to help you better
#12
Melting Slicks
You plan to build a fake restamped BB car? Why?
If you have the $$$ you should look for a real one, will save you a lot of money, headaches and trouble in the future.
just my opinion.
oWEN
If you have the $$$ you should look for a real one, will save you a lot of money, headaches and trouble in the future.
just my opinion.
oWEN
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Originally Posted by mdz06vetter
next question - you building for your driving pleasure or are you attempting a restoration for NCRS judging? exactly, what are your plans for the car? will help us to help you better
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So...the original question still unanswered as of yet...
Are the date codes of this block and other components within the acceptable range of my car's birthdate?
Are the date codes of this block and other components within the acceptable range of my car's birthdate?
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Originally Posted by vintagecorvette
You plan to build a fake restamped BB car? Why?
If you have the $$$ you should look for a real one, will save you a lot of money, headaches and trouble in the future.
just my opinion.
oWEN
If you have the $$$ you should look for a real one, will save you a lot of money, headaches and trouble in the future.
just my opinion.
oWEN
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if you don't car on having a NCRS correct car and real numbers matchnig and you want to drive the car, whay a 40 year old motor, why not a nice new BB crate motor. now I know what you are thinking that will cost way too much ect. I been doing the math about rebuilding a old BB and buying a new crate motor amd they way I see it it is cheaper in the long run to buy new and forget about it. that is if you are not worried matchings numbers. my two cents
#18
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we have answers for you if you want to campaign the car for Top Flight / NCRS, but you say that is not what you are after. So then just what do you want to know when you ask if the date is "in the acceptable range" - acceptable to whom? Some future buyer? To you, if for personal reasons? THen what do YOU think is acceptable?
#19
Melting Slicks
Why would you want restamp a non original motor for a non correct car, if you are planning to use it just as a driver. Who are you trying to fool? This is not the best place to ask about building a restamped non original BB Corvette. If you want a reliable BB, buy a new crate motor as Nowhere man stated. They come with a warranty and it will be brand new.
oWEN
oWEN
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Very good points...but if a future buyer wanted to put the car to a 427 390hp configuration, and the dates did not match for the build date for the car...I just want to know if the dates are within acceptable limits!
I really do appreciate your inputs, especially the one about just getting a new big block to avoid any problems with a rebuilt/restamped big block. However I still don't have an answer to my original question.
I feel there may be some reason why some of you don't want to see my car configured in a way you don't agree with...but can someone please answer my question already?! Thanks in advance!
I really do appreciate your inputs, especially the one about just getting a new big block to avoid any problems with a rebuilt/restamped big block. However I still don't have an answer to my original question.
I feel there may be some reason why some of you don't want to see my car configured in a way you don't agree with...but can someone please answer my question already?! Thanks in advance!