spf72

Looking at tile floors and the office building I work in has very sturdy coin pattern stuff in the stairwells. Anyone used this type in the garage? I have radiant heat so I'm looking for something that will hold up. Really want to stick with tiles instead of epoxy for the ease on the legs factor.

capevettes

I used peel and stick 1 ft x 1ft black and white linoleum tiles to create an inexpensive, durable, good looking floor in my garage. I don't have radiant heat so I don't know how that would affect it. Mine has been down for over 2 years and looks great. I alternated black and white squares.

spf72

That sounds interesting - do you do much work on them? I just do my own hobby stuff and I'm not to hard but I do drag around jacks and pull an ocational motor. Also, putting a lift in not sure if that matters?

capevettes

I do all of my own maintenance. The jacks don't bother the floors at all. A little light sponging occasionally with water cleans them. They still shine like new and show no damage at all. It's a lot cheaper than that race deck stuff they are selling. This really looks like a showroom for a lot less money. I haven't taken the plunge for a lift yet. I'm afraid it will take up too much room and spoil the look of the garage. It sure does beat lying on your back though!

Trophy Blue

There is a company here in New Jersey that installs interlocking vinyl tiles that snap into place similar to pergo flooring for garage floors. I think that they have a twenty five year warranty. I have seen alot of them installed and they look great. I just don't know if you can buy them yourself but, I could find out if you are interested.

ZRGator

Well I, for one, would be interested in hearing about this product, Trophy.
Do they have a web site?

firstgear

do you have a photo of how it looks as well as where did you get them and what was the cost per square?

joec

www.racedeck.com They make the tile floors for garages.. They aint cheap tho...

/joe

GCD1962

Unless it is perfectly flat, you will never be able to keep it clean. You seem to be describing a non-slip type of surface that is raised

Trophy Blue

Yes,
Joe is right. It is racedeck.com.

Plasticman

I had what I think you are describing. It was hard rubber tiles, about 18" square, with raised circles about 1" in diameter.

I had it in my workshop (for 18 years). It looked great initially, but it did stain (mine was grey, but did come in other colors) from some common automotive liquids, and the sun (through a skylight) did affect it a little. Overall I was pleased, but would not use it again, since it was a bear to wash and keep clean (raised circles make it hard to scrub the lower area). My new shop will have FLAT hard vinyl (commercial grade) tiles. As for the garage, I know I am too hard on it to put down tiles, so I will go with a stain (keep the dust down, and still be easy to keep clean).

I know of a few guys who tried epoxy, but were not too happy with the end results (but that was a while ago, and hopefully the formulations have been changed). Also, know that anything you put down must be over concrete that has a plastic barrier (otherwise, moisure will come up through the concrete and lift the tiles or epoxy).

Plasticman

froogleyankee

capevettes: did you go directly onto a concrete floor? how did you prep for best adhesion? interesting idea to use this stuff.

capevettes

My floors were new as the garage was new. After a few months to allow the concrete to cure I just swept the floors and applied the peel and stick square by square. I bought them at Ocean State Job Lot here in Mass. They were about a buck apiece. I did the areas in front of and around the cars but not directly under them. I have rolled jacks and other equiptment over them with no problems. I'm a real novice on the photo process. I'll work on that. None of them have curled up and they look great.

spf72

GCD - actually I think it more like another person here described - 18" tiles with the rasied coin pattern.

I think these stick ons may be something to look into - I was concerned about where the tires rest as I would think any turning of the wheel would lift them but I like your idea of using them on them around the edge and maybe having a "car mat" under the car

JohnZ

REAL epoxy (industrial grade), applied over a steel shot-blasted concrete surface with insulation and a moisture barrier under the slab, is indestructible; mine was done over five years ago, and still looks like it was poured yesterday. Nothing you can get at a home center is even close - that stuff is PAINT, not epoxy coating. Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) did mine with their "Classic Floor" system, and NOTHING bothers it - won't stain, chip or peel, and it's impervious to ANY automotive chemical, and hot tires won't stain it or lift it. Well worth the money - was $1.92/sq. ft. (turnkey) five years ago. Sweep it with a soft-bristle push broom occasionally, hose the winter salt/snow/crud accumulation out the door in the spring.

spf72

I agree that professional epoxy is great stuff. Issue I am having is the pricing I received ranged from $7 to $11/square foot. I have around 1500 feet so that was a bit steep. At $2 a foot I would sign up today! Amazing what 5 years can do to pricing! - Worse then a 67 big block

spf72

Called HomePro and they don't work in Maine. They did say their pricing was from around $2.30 for a standard floor my size (1400') to around $5 for a custom floor - seems like the other quotes were WAY out of line!!

trw58c1

The tiles you are describing are no doubt the commercial vinyl composition tiles that are a solid color all the way through the tile. I believe they are made in peel-and-stick but also without to use an adhesive. I thought of doing that also but was afraid they may crack in severely cold weather. Other than that, take a buffer to them like in the military days and it will almost outshine your car.

Yellow6t7

JohnZ,
The floor looks great. How did you transition at the garage doors??

JohnZ

The doors are set back about 10" from the brick face, and the epoxy-coated slab is continuous out to flush with the brick; no slab joint under the door so it seals well. Photo below.