Mr D.

I’m in the process of checking out a 1965 Convertible. The owner is firm on 20K and has owned the car since 1972. Below are some of the details:

Body:
Has both convertible (needs new canvas) and hard top. All four fenders were flared in the early 80’s using an Ecklers kit. Has factory side pipes and correct headlight setup. Forward parking lights were removed when installing the Ecklers kit. Paint is bad. Basically to put back to factory you’re looking at 2 fenders and 2 quarters or keep the flairs and glass in the R&L parking light panels. Hood is from a 1967 BB.

Interior:
Factory complete (average condition) with the exception of seats being 72 year model. Has add on air (owner says it Factory Air) I will recheck that. Power Windows, Power antenna still installed. Color is Saddle

Engine:
Owner stated car originally came with a 327 375hp that went south and he did not keep. If that is true (which I have to question) I read that as being a L84 Fuel Injection, I’m thinking he meant to say 365hp. The current engine is a 1972 CE 350 LT1 that was bought over the counter from Chevrolet in the form of a long block. Owner states engine has 20,000 miles on it. Valve covers, intake and Carb are not correct for 1965. Manual brakes and Manual Steering. Has 4 Speed and 3:70 rear end.

Basically the car is complete from a quick walk around standpoint. The frame is not rusted, birdcage is good. Currently runs and moves under its own power. I have owned both C-2/3’s for 20 years now do all my own wrenching (just completed a body off on my 69) so I'm not too concerned about the mechanical aspect of this car . The big cost factor of this will be the body as I will have to out source that. So, based on the above do you guys feel this is a 20K Vette? I will be doing a deep inspection on this car tomorrow and pulling all numbers I can see.

Thanks for any input you guys have or 1965 specific details to check out tomorrow.

PS: Comes with spare side pipe cover and power steering setup

chitown65

I guess the biggest question is your plans for the car. From the post I would assume a "correct" looking driver. I am not a body guy but you could easily spend another $5K to $10K on body work and paint.

You then have a driver that looks factory but is loaded with non 65 components.

I think if you look around you can find a decent 65 driver with mostly correct parts for $25K to low $30K.

I would keep looking.

67ratrag

Original air car has 6 ***** on the center console and an air vent at the top above the radio. If it has only 4 ***** and two ball vents on the sides, then it is aftermarket air. Original air adds to the value of the car big time. Check the bird cage, if unsure, find someone knowledgeable (sp?) that can check this out. Birdcage repair/replacement is high dollar stuff. NOM means the car could have had ANY engine in it, and w/o proof of prior mill you cannot assume anything buyer tells you. He may just not know. Alot of dollars to correct previous bodywork to restore it to original. On a GOOD body, normal strip, body prep and paint is around 5-6K, with all that you describe may amount to a small fortune. Buyer beware.

66BBDriver

If you spend 35K on a '65 driver you will money ahead Firedog

Mr D.

Thats what I'm thinking, it will cost 10K to put the body back correct with paint. That would make the car in its present state a nice driver.

If I do get it I will store it for 3 years and then start the work. I'm thinking I wont be able to buy this same car for 20K 3 years from now.

ctjackster

tough call, $20K is about market for a NOM driving but not pretty 65.

If it was originally a fuelie (I too kinda doubt it, he would have likley have referred to it as a fuelie rather than by a HP ref) that fact would enhance the intrinsic value (to someone). If the car runs strong and it would take $10K to fix the flares / p-lights / source a correct hood and repaint it to quality, you're looking at a $30K NOM driver with perfect paint (driver of course means you would have to invest in a new vert top). and then you would have the "pick and choose your battles" things, like getting 65 seats (or not), etc.

If frame is rust free and b-cage is truly rust free as well, I think it might be a justifiable buy. Of course, you always make out better letting someone else restore or repaint the car before you, but many of us enjoy the journey too, right?

stingrayl76

I think you are looking at 15K to 20K to get the body correct and paint. These cost of these projects always seem to escalate once you get into them. Also, if you are going to store the car for 3 years, you would have to figure the future cost of the body and paint work.

What will be the function of the car? If you want one to fix up and resell, I think you can do better by finding one with a better body and stick with the work you can perform yourself. On the other hand, if you want one to drive, up front money is well spent and you won't have to wait 3 years to enjoy it.

John S 1961

Buy it and enjoy it, let the next guy fix it, or just buy one thats not as messed with then you will know how much it costs. Otherwise you are only guessing what it is going to take to fix it. Why would you want to store it for three years? what so special about three years?

65coupe

The 3.70 rear was I believe the standard rear for 350 and 365 HP motors. If it was a 375 fuelie then check a large oval hole in the radiator support for the air intake.

I am not seeing anything for 20K around even in the shape you describe. If it runs it seams to be at least 25K. I think its worth the 20K since its rust free. I would offer him 16,000 and try to own it at 18,000.

Mr D.

IRAQ, Afghanistan, OBL, Homeland Security ect ect.

For some out of the box thinking: I could take the NOM Tri-Power out of my 69 replace it with the LT1 out of the 65, sale the 69 and end up with a NOM Tri-Power 65. hmmmmmmmmm

Denney

If the frame is good, and it can be driven as is, the price is reasonable. Body and paint work seem to be highly diverse in prices depending on where you are but seeing Jacksonville, and knowing that Georgia is not that far away, I suspect you could get it done a lot cheaper than near the "big" cities. Bottom line, if you like it and the title is clear and it is as you describe it, I doubt you can go wrong at this point.

Sky65

If it is solid, no major mechaical issues, I would buy it and drive it until I was ready to restore it. This sounds very much like my 65. Mine even has a CE 350. Personally I like the way it looks and because it was not a large, correct car, investment I drive it all the time and don't worry about it.

I am interested in the engine. The CE block. Did the current owner buy the engine himself and install it? Was it a long or short block? What identifies it as an LT1? Is it stamped on the vin pad?

Thanks
Tom

keithkhd1

Brief Synapsis,
You can lowball him and get it between $16-18,000 and spend another $12,000 or so to make her the way you want, or wait and buy a nice one ready to drive one for that price, the choice is yours. Me, Id be pateint and continue to save my cash.

Seaside63

That running/driving '65 for 20k will be worth 35-40k in the exact same condition 3 years from now.

As baby boomers retire and sell off their big houses for smaller retirement digs they will be flush with cash to buy the toys they couldn't have when they were raising kids and running the rat race.

That money will find its way to early Corvettes.

Just look at the recent auctions.

Also look at what's happened to 55-57 Chevys, 67-69 Camaros and all late 60's muscle cars. They're all taking off. Heck, you can't even get a nicely restored Camaro for less than $30,000 anymore.

Mid year Corvettes are considered the "coolest car of all time" by major auto magazines. Their popularity is not going away very soon.

Buy it now and fix it up or sell it again. Either way you can't lose.

Mr D.

I went and had a close look at this car today. It is a Factory Air car, tach is 5500 rpm yellow, 6000 rpm red, engine pad is stamped CE 3A52 which supports the LT1 statement.

All rubber needs replaced, windshield chrome is good as is the hardtop chrome. Has luggage rack.

What is wrong on the car: engine, trans, fender flairs, seats, outside mirrors, and hood.

Frame and bird cage are good, one concern was both doors sagging. I could lift up on both about 1/2 inch. But still no sign of rust being the problem. Maybe just lose / worn.

Cars need paint (like really bad), all new rubber (this includes suppension rubber), ect ect. Basicly a body on restoration so to speak. I see 15K on top of the 20K asking price to have a clean looking driver. Car is rough looking but these C2 arent going down in price.

65coupe

If the A/C is complete and working...buy the car. Try to get it for 18k...but be prepared to pay his price. I hope he doesn't read the forum.

Marks69BB

For a factory AC vert with PW, sidepipes, and both tops, I'd say offer him $15k up to high teens for it. As you said, these cars aren't getting any cheaper and since it needs paint anyway, the fenders can be replaced at that time which will restore the parking light mountings. The sidepipes may not be original to the car since the quantities were very low in 65 for it as a first year option.

You didn't say what the trim tag said about original ext/int colors?

Did you also check to see if by chance it was originally a BB car?

When you're done, you will have nice NOM car for around $30k if you are able to strike a deal. Even no-option NOM coupes are fetching mid to high $20s these days.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

ctjackster

so true. so true.

this is like having a conversation on the front page of the new york times.

when I was looking at buying my 65, I was a lurker here and watched the then owner ask for help in answering my questions (confirming numbers-matching issue). I also searched on his name and saw a post on the birdcage rust he had found, but certainly not mentioned to me.

no harm John H - you were an honorable man and we were both satisfied witht he transaction . . . .

but be warned, might want to generalize certain details in these sorts of inquiries. Also another good reason not to post your full name here.

Crazyhorse

I believe this is a somewhat rare option that increases the value at least 5K.

bcwaller

Since it is already a NOM car, you don't have to make it factory correct. You can get a "good" paint job for $3K-$5K, replace all the rubber for maybe $1K, new top for $1K, and you can drive it wherever you want and have a great car. Since you don't know the mechanical state of everything, you might think about a reserve of $3K for brakes, suspension, or other issues that might pop up after you drive the car.

BUt, you could buy the car and do all this work in the next couple of months, and have the car to drive for the next three years. Then you can look at values and see if you need to make the car factory, or leave it as is. I like drivers, and if the flares are not too bad, you would have a pretty good car that you can't enter in any shows...