FS- 1967 427/390 Convertible
08-09-2013, 09:08 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
FS- 1967 427/390 Convertible
Hi All
I hope I am not violating any forum rules, but I did not know how to post my photos here. I am selling my Goodwood Green 1967 BB convertible due to health issues. It can be viewed with pictures and preliminary deatails at www.usedcorvettesforsale.com
It is Featured Ad 54404
Send me a PM if interested. All serious offers will be considered. Thanks.
I hope I am not violating any forum rules, but I did not know how to post my photos here. I am selling my Goodwood Green 1967 BB convertible due to health issues. It can be viewed with pictures and preliminary deatails at www.usedcorvettesforsale.com
It is Featured Ad 54404
Send me a PM if interested. All serious offers will be considered. Thanks.
08-09-2013, 10:58 AM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank You! It really is . It is the best midyear I have ever owned since the day. Even the heater and defrost cables move like silk, no binds or kinks at all. The Crane Roller cam added about 25 hp and 30-35 lb/ft of torque. It runs extremely strong. I forgot to mention the paint is a two stage base coat/clear coat, and there are near new 205 radials on the car. The doors close with two fingers, that is how good the body is.
Last edited by Buttonhead; 08-09-2013 at 11:02 AM.
08-09-2013, 12:53 PM
#6
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Member Since: Jul 2000
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08-20-2013, 06:04 PM
#11
Safety Car
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Itasca IL
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Having had all the 67 big blocks except an L-88, this is the setup best to have on a driver. 3.08 gear with the M20, PS, PB, and side exhaust.
Last edited by SupremeDeluxe; 08-20-2013 at 06:09 PM.
08-21-2013, 11:44 AM
#12
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Everyone, this Sale thread has gotten a bit off track with all the discussion about pricing. Let's not distract from the For Sale Classified ad this is.
Please limit the posts here to relevant questions about purchasing the car or posts advancing the sale. Everything else can go to PM if necessary. Thank you.
Please limit the posts here to relevant questions about purchasing the car or posts advancing the sale. Everything else can go to PM if necessary. Thank you.
09-02-2013, 07:39 AM
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I have removed the for sale ad from Usedcorvettesforsale.com
The offers and questions were absurd and became quite tiresome. If any forum member would be seriously interested in the car I will work with more latitude in the price. Send a PM if interested. I made a previous error on Hagerty's value. The correct price as of this month for a #2 car is $92,400. This car is a 2+. Thanks CF
The offers and questions were absurd and became quite tiresome. If any forum member would be seriously interested in the car I will work with more latitude in the price. Send a PM if interested. I made a previous error on Hagerty's value. The correct price as of this month for a #2 car is $92,400. This car is a 2+. Thanks CF
Last edited by Buttonhead; 09-02-2013 at 07:45 AM.
09-08-2013, 06:52 PM
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
I get a PM, what's your bottom line? I respond and hear nada back. Another one that thinks they are going to buy a documented 67 big block convertible on the cheap. 
09-09-2013, 08:28 AM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Apparently a Goodwood Green color trumps all the important stuff like unhit body, super options, great driving car and bullet proof docs.
Last edited by Buttonhead; 09-10-2013 at 05:54 AM.
09-10-2013, 06:40 AM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtool...port?vc=710663
I guess I made up these numbers. My car is a 2- 2+
I was sent a PM by a market expert, telling me that the car is worth low to mid 80's. Funny, this individual doesn't own a midyear BB and apparently has not found that car for their stated price, or they would not have contacted me about "what is the bottom line?" Of course the experts like Hagerty who track prices from all sources monthly don't know what they are doing. These buyers want the best but won't or can't pay for it.
I guess I made up these numbers. My car is a 2- 2+
I was sent a PM by a market expert, telling me that the car is worth low to mid 80's. Funny, this individual doesn't own a midyear BB and apparently has not found that car for their stated price, or they would not have contacted me about "what is the bottom line?" Of course the experts like Hagerty who track prices from all sources monthly don't know what they are doing. These buyers want the best but won't or can't pay for it.
Last edited by Buttonhead; 09-10-2013 at 08:44 AM.
09-10-2013, 05:05 PM
#18
Safety Car
ya gotta make the effort to get it to an Auction house where the big money guys go, if I could i'd buy it as it sounds way underpriced to me....good luck with the sale and hope your health issues improve....
09-10-2013, 05:56 PM
#19
No to Auctions!!
I'm sorry but I just don't like auction houses. First, you need to wait for the auction. Then you need to sign their contract for the listing---date, position, time, reserve or no reserve and then pay money to have the car listed.
Then you and your car need to get yourselves to the auction, get a hotel room for one or more days, hope your car arrives undamaged
( shipped or otherwise) and pay many miscellaneous expenses --airfare, food, auction, etc.
Then be prepared to be hammered by the Auction Rep. to reduce your reserve. Finally, pay the fees, wait for the check and get yourself home.
I've done it twice and I'll never do it again unless it's in my hometown.
I've been looking at Big Blocks for several months now. It seems that no matter what the asking price has been, no one wants to pay more than in the low $70s for the cars. That's what they are actually selling for--take a look at Ebay, Carsonline and Hemmings, for example.
Then you and your car need to get yourselves to the auction, get a hotel room for one or more days, hope your car arrives undamaged
( shipped or otherwise) and pay many miscellaneous expenses --airfare, food, auction, etc.
Then be prepared to be hammered by the Auction Rep. to reduce your reserve. Finally, pay the fees, wait for the check and get yourself home.
I've done it twice and I'll never do it again unless it's in my hometown.
I've been looking at Big Blocks for several months now. It seems that no matter what the asking price has been, no one wants to pay more than in the low $70s for the cars. That's what they are actually selling for--take a look at Ebay, Carsonline and Hemmings, for example.
09-11-2013, 08:10 AM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm sorry but I just don't like auction houses. First, you need to wait for the auction. Then you need to sign their contract for the listing---date, position, time, reserve or no reserve and then pay money to have the car listed.
Then you and your car need to get yourselves to the auction, get a hotel room for one or more days, hope your car arrives undamaged
( shipped or otherwise) and pay many miscellaneous expenses --airfare, food, auction, etc.
Then be prepared to be hammered by the Auction Rep. to reduce your reserve. Finally, pay the fees, wait for the check and get yourself home.
I've done it twice and I'll never do it again unless it's in my hometown.
I've been looking at Big Blocks for several months now. It seems that no matter what the asking price has been, no one wants to pay more than in the low $70s for the cars. That's what they are actually selling for--take a look at Ebay, Carsonline and Hemmings, for example.
Then you and your car need to get yourselves to the auction, get a hotel room for one or more days, hope your car arrives undamaged
( shipped or otherwise) and pay many miscellaneous expenses --airfare, food, auction, etc.
Then be prepared to be hammered by the Auction Rep. to reduce your reserve. Finally, pay the fees, wait for the check and get yourself home.
I've done it twice and I'll never do it again unless it's in my hometown.
I've been looking at Big Blocks for several months now. It seems that no matter what the asking price has been, no one wants to pay more than in the low $70s for the cars. That's what they are actually selling for--take a look at Ebay, Carsonline and Hemmings, for example.
Last edited by Buttonhead; 09-11-2013 at 08:24 AM.