Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions
I am looking at getting into auto crossing and have some questions. First, my 93 is basically stock with some of the most common bolt-ons on it (exhaust, k&n, chip, etc.). What are some other mods that I should look at doing and what ones would be the most important to start with? How do you find local auto crossing groups? I live in South Florida (Palm Beach County). Any other tips you could share would be great!! Thanks in advance!!! :steering:
#2
Melting Slicks
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
For mods and equipment upgrades, you ought to post on the autocrossing forum. Brakes first.
Be prepared for some very opinionated people to chime in. Especially if you bring up the subject of drilled rotors.
Check out carguys.com to see what needs to be done to pass tech for a driving school/driving event. Download their tech sheet that you would have to take to a mechanic. That's a start, and will show you what you need to do to the car to prepare it. For yourself, you need a helmet, and a desire to learn.
[Modified by 94lt1torchred, 11:47 AM 6/16/2003]
Be prepared for some very opinionated people to chime in. Especially if you bring up the subject of drilled rotors.
Check out carguys.com to see what needs to be done to pass tech for a driving school/driving event. Download their tech sheet that you would have to take to a mechanic. That's a start, and will show you what you need to do to the car to prepare it. For yourself, you need a helmet, and a desire to learn.
[Modified by 94lt1torchred, 11:47 AM 6/16/2003]
#3
Team Owner
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Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
Save your mod money for now. The biggest improvement you can make in terms of autox is to improve your driving. Seriously. Take some driving courses before you spend another dime on mods.
Example: I've taken many autox courses. I have a record of times from one of them. My first baseline run, with nobody in the passenger seat, was a 37.895. The very next run, with me in the passenger seat, my national-class instructor who had never driven a C4 before, reeled off a 34.051. (To redeem myself here, by the end of that class I was able to lower my time to 34.354 [on my 22nd run on the same course])
Driver skill is by far the single biggest modification you can make to improve autox times.
[Modified by Scoob, 5:23 PM 6/16/2003]
Example: I've taken many autox courses. I have a record of times from one of them. My first baseline run, with nobody in the passenger seat, was a 37.895. The very next run, with me in the passenger seat, my national-class instructor who had never driven a C4 before, reeled off a 34.051. (To redeem myself here, by the end of that class I was able to lower my time to 34.354 [on my 22nd run on the same course])
Driver skill is by far the single biggest modification you can make to improve autox times.
[Modified by Scoob, 5:23 PM 6/16/2003]
#4
Safety Car
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Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
The auto x's which I have participated in are pretty "low speed" therefore you have very little straight-aways to really step on it - so I don't believe that performance mods will really help you much - just my $.02 of course.
Definitely buy a helmet. If you want to throw some $ somewhere buy a set of slicks.
Definitely buy a helmet. If you want to throw some $ somewhere buy a set of slicks.
#5
Drifting
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St. Jude Contributor
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (GoodbyeGirl)
:iagree: with everyone.
You need a new helmet, tires are VERY important, brakes are a big issue, and the most important factor is DRIVER SKILL! Try and go to a couple AutoX schools or something similar.
For a lot more info and to locate your local chapter, go to www.scca.org
Have fun! :cheers:
You need a new helmet, tires are VERY important, brakes are a big issue, and the most important factor is DRIVER SKILL! Try and go to a couple AutoX schools or something similar.
For a lot more info and to locate your local chapter, go to www.scca.org
Have fun! :cheers:
#6
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
I have only autocrossed once and i loved it. The best advice i can give you is not worry about modding your car. I think you will find out like i did that the car can probably already outdrive you. Once you get experienced let the modding begin.
#7
Team Owner
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
Here's a link to some good info for novice autocrossers. http://www.tirerack.com/features/solo2/handbook.htm
When you are starting out, the mantra is seat time, seat time, and more seat time. Your initial car prep doesn't really take a lot. Make sure that the brakes are in good shape (OEM pads and rotors will work just fine initially), the wheel bearings should not show any looseness, battery is secure and the seat belt should hold you securely. Add air to the tires; I usually start with about 40psi (cold) in the front and 36 in the back and drop the pressure as needed.
Most all autocross events will have loaner helmets, but after you have a few events behind you, it will be much easier having your own. Get an Snell SA2000 rated helmet in your preference of open face or closed and expect to pay a minimum of $220. The SA rating will also allow you to do open track events later on if you want.
You'll find that most autocross competitors are willing to answer questions and provide help to novices. Ask questions, listen, even ask to ride along if the event will allow it and get seat time!!
If you can't find local Corvette clubs that host events, go to http://www.scca.org and you should be able to find event info for the Florida area. And if I didn't mention it, get seat time!! :steering: :steering: :cheers:
When you are starting out, the mantra is seat time, seat time, and more seat time. Your initial car prep doesn't really take a lot. Make sure that the brakes are in good shape (OEM pads and rotors will work just fine initially), the wheel bearings should not show any looseness, battery is secure and the seat belt should hold you securely. Add air to the tires; I usually start with about 40psi (cold) in the front and 36 in the back and drop the pressure as needed.
Most all autocross events will have loaner helmets, but after you have a few events behind you, it will be much easier having your own. Get an Snell SA2000 rated helmet in your preference of open face or closed and expect to pay a minimum of $220. The SA rating will also allow you to do open track events later on if you want.
You'll find that most autocross competitors are willing to answer questions and provide help to novices. Ask questions, listen, even ask to ride along if the event will allow it and get seat time!!
If you can't find local Corvette clubs that host events, go to http://www.scca.org and you should be able to find event info for the Florida area. And if I didn't mention it, get seat time!! :steering: :steering: :cheers:
#8
Le Mans Master
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
tires - brakes - and a good front end alignment :cheers:
#9
Burning Brakes
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Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
a four wheel alignment, matching front and rear tires, then seat time to practice and uncover any handling quirks you'd like to change.
#10
Drifting
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Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Vette Ed)
The biggest single thing is experience, next for some improvement on times NOW is a set of autocross tires, I have had good luck with both Hoosiers and Kumhos. Tires on an average course are worth at least 2-5 seconds.
Jeffy'
Jeffy'
#11
Burning Brakes
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
What everybody else said! Don't worry about mods (yet), just make sure your car is in good running order and drive!
Watch for the seasoned veterans and ask (nicely) if someone would mind riding with you and give you some pointers.
Most of all just get out there and drive and have fun! This pic is from a Vette club event, check out the various year Vettes in the background.
And not to leave out the C1's
Watch for the seasoned veterans and ask (nicely) if someone would mind riding with you and give you some pointers.
Most of all just get out there and drive and have fun! This pic is from a Vette club event, check out the various year Vettes in the background.
And not to leave out the C1's
#12
Elite Torch Red Member
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
Moving to the autocross section
#13
Melting Slicks
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Mr Mojo)
Whitevette. I just finished my 3rd event and I couldn't agree more with the responses. I'm runnig a stock 92. It isn't the car, it's the driver. So put the money there. I attended a novice school the club puts on for next to nothing. Get guys in the club to help. Learn how to walk a course and break it down. Get them to ride with you and watch you from the side of the track. Ride with other people even if they don't run a Vette. Like cars are nice but not all clubs are just Vettes. Slow in fast out. I'll probably have nightmares from that phrase... Boy is it hard to get it to sink in. That and you can do 3 things. Brake, turn, gas. Don't mix them.
Graham
Graham
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Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (vms4evr)
Definitely buy a good full face helmet. Then spend all your time (at least 1 year) and money modifying the "nut" behing the wheel. Take all the schools you can get into. Talk to the fast guys/gals and learn to walk the course. If you can get in 60+ autocrosses in that first year, you are off to a good start. Then in your second year buy some extra rims and R compound tires. In your third year start to think about modifying your car, working only on the brakes and suspension. Do only one mod at at time and test the work. In your fourth year, if you are still at it, you might be ready for some engine mods...
#15
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Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Whitvette)
Hi:
My son and I drove a 93-LTI. In SCCA "A" stock last year. He came in first and I second (same car). in a 12 event autox series.
Experience (seat time) is the most important part of autox. You are very limited in stock classes. Scca allows stock wheels and any size tire that can fit. We ran Kuhmos 255 frt and 275 rear. could have run larger.
The tires were the only addition to a completely stock 93 LT1.
We ran 33 PSI frt and 28 PSI rear.
If you have already modified your 93 then you probably would run in BSP that allows additional modifications.
SCCA Stock classes provide a great learning experience, can drive you car to the track and back and is relatively inexpensive.
:chevy [IMG][/IMG]
My son and I drove a 93-LTI. In SCCA "A" stock last year. He came in first and I second (same car). in a 12 event autox series.
Experience (seat time) is the most important part of autox. You are very limited in stock classes. Scca allows stock wheels and any size tire that can fit. We ran Kuhmos 255 frt and 275 rear. could have run larger.
The tires were the only addition to a completely stock 93 LT1.
We ran 33 PSI frt and 28 PSI rear.
If you have already modified your 93 then you probably would run in BSP that allows additional modifications.
SCCA Stock classes provide a great learning experience, can drive you car to the track and back and is relatively inexpensive.
:chevy [IMG][/IMG]
#16
Melting Slicks
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (rpuerzer)
You ran 33lb front and 28lb rear? What type of Khumos? I thought they had soft sidewalls and needed more air above stock, not less?
I'm running Firehawks that are almost gone. I ran 39lb front and 37lb rear then ended up dropping to 38lb front and 36lb rear the 2nd day.
I thought you would want more air for autox so you don't roll over the side wall. I chalked my tires and was right on the edge of the tread.
I'm running Firehawks that are almost gone. I ran 39lb front and 37lb rear then ended up dropping to 38lb front and 36lb rear the 2nd day.
I thought you would want more air for autox so you don't roll over the side wall. I chalked my tires and was right on the edge of the tread.
#17
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (vms4evr)
every tire and car is different.
kumho sidewalls being called soft is probably in relation to hoosiers.
Also wider tires typically need less pressure. Lighter cars also need less pressure.
Lots of variables.
kumho sidewalls being called soft is probably in relation to hoosiers.
Also wider tires typically need less pressure. Lighter cars also need less pressure.
Lots of variables.
You ran 33lb front and 28lb rear? What type of Khumos? I thought they had soft sidewalls and needed more air above stock, not less?
I'm running Firehawks that are almost gone. I ran 39lb front and 37lb rear then ended up dropping to 38lb front and 36lb rear the 2nd day.
I thought you would want more air for autox so you don't roll over the side wall. I chalked my tires and was right on the edge of the tread.
I'm running Firehawks that are almost gone. I ran 39lb front and 37lb rear then ended up dropping to 38lb front and 36lb rear the 2nd day.
I thought you would want more air for autox so you don't roll over the side wall. I chalked my tires and was right on the edge of the tread.
#19
Melting Slicks
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (Gary96LT4)
Thanks for the link Gary. I didn't even realize that section was there, duh...
But now curiosity is perked more. Khumos are softer sidewall in comparisson to Hoosiers. Ok I can follow that. But I get the impression that they are softer sidewalls than Firehawks, KDWs, Gatorbacks, etc... Would you guys agree or not? Reason I'm curious is cause I'm about to replace the Firehawks with Khumo MXs and some folks at a recent autocross said they were too soft for heavy cars like a Vette. Oh, and they mentioned they thought they sucked in the rain. Kinda concerned because this is my daily driver car.
But now curiosity is perked more. Khumos are softer sidewall in comparisson to Hoosiers. Ok I can follow that. But I get the impression that they are softer sidewalls than Firehawks, KDWs, Gatorbacks, etc... Would you guys agree or not? Reason I'm curious is cause I'm about to replace the Firehawks with Khumo MXs and some folks at a recent autocross said they were too soft for heavy cars like a Vette. Oh, and they mentioned they thought they sucked in the rain. Kinda concerned because this is my daily driver car.
#20
Re: Looking at getting into auto crossing: questions (vms4evr)
You guys are getting tangled up in your underwear...soft sidewalls vs. Hoosiers.... :confused: You are comparing Kumho's street tire to a race tire. If you are comparing the V700 or the Ecsta equivelent, the sidewalls are brutally strong. Go watch the tire machines choke, and jam trying to install a 315 V700.
Anyway, for a first year A-Xer, forget about tires, mods any other "go fast" stuff at all. Just get your car in good, safe condition. That would include (but as they say-"not limited to" ;) ) replacing all of your fluids. Not just topping off, bleeding etc. Especially, purge ALL of your brake fluid.
As noted by one of the astute posters above, find yourself a "sage" and ask if you can hang out with him/her. (yes, there ARE some girls that will kick your ****!) The whole motivation here is to learn the basics and then some very quickly. The key as my father used to say is to keep your ears open and your mouth shut. You will find how little you know about car control, and how very helpful a GOOD AXer can be.
Walk the course, walk the course....at least four times. More is even better in this case. Don't walk it in a pack...usually too much BS from uninformed "experts". The exception would be the "novice coursewalk" hosted by on of the accomplished drivers. Seat time, more events, and more seat time is the key to AX success. There are AT LEAST as many things to do wrong in competitive driving as there is in golf. Know any "good" golfers that have just started, or only play for about 4 minutes every weekend? (at best!)
Have fun and keep it simple. :thumbs:
Anyway, for a first year A-Xer, forget about tires, mods any other "go fast" stuff at all. Just get your car in good, safe condition. That would include (but as they say-"not limited to" ;) ) replacing all of your fluids. Not just topping off, bleeding etc. Especially, purge ALL of your brake fluid.
As noted by one of the astute posters above, find yourself a "sage" and ask if you can hang out with him/her. (yes, there ARE some girls that will kick your ****!) The whole motivation here is to learn the basics and then some very quickly. The key as my father used to say is to keep your ears open and your mouth shut. You will find how little you know about car control, and how very helpful a GOOD AXer can be.
Walk the course, walk the course....at least four times. More is even better in this case. Don't walk it in a pack...usually too much BS from uninformed "experts". The exception would be the "novice coursewalk" hosted by on of the accomplished drivers. Seat time, more events, and more seat time is the key to AX success. There are AT LEAST as many things to do wrong in competitive driving as there is in golf. Know any "good" golfers that have just started, or only play for about 4 minutes every weekend? (at best!)
Have fun and keep it simple. :thumbs: