Budget track day car C4 or C5?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Budget track day car C4 or C5?
I just did a Littel event a few weeks back where I got to drive a Ferrari 488 at AMP and it was a blast. It reminded me how much fun being on a road coarse is. I did a track day years ago in my 2012 GS and it was a blast. As much as I would like to put my ZR1 on the track, I know how fast things can go bad. So I started to think about a budget track car.
I am thinking of a $20k budget which puts you in a C4 and money for brake and tire upgrades as well as some safety gear. There is also money for a C5 but the miles are going to be high. I have seen a few ZO6’s but one had 180k miles and the other had a rebuilt title. While I haven’t ruled out a rebuilt title car it would depend on the damage, no biggie if it was only cosmetic. I did run across a C6 in the low $20k mark but it had miles and looked a bit rough.
so my question is, you guys that have been doing this a while. What car would you choose and why given the budget? This is strictly going to be a fun toy to do track days not a competitive race car. I am sure there is a ton of things to consider that I am simply not aware of so please fill me in with things you have seen. Of course cars with miles are gonna need bushings, suspension potentially clutch and I don’t want to get into rebuilding a car. I am just getting into the research stage at the moment and figure I would start here.
thanks!
I am thinking of a $20k budget which puts you in a C4 and money for brake and tire upgrades as well as some safety gear. There is also money for a C5 but the miles are going to be high. I have seen a few ZO6’s but one had 180k miles and the other had a rebuilt title. While I haven’t ruled out a rebuilt title car it would depend on the damage, no biggie if it was only cosmetic. I did run across a C6 in the low $20k mark but it had miles and looked a bit rough.
so my question is, you guys that have been doing this a while. What car would you choose and why given the budget? This is strictly going to be a fun toy to do track days not a competitive race car. I am sure there is a ton of things to consider that I am simply not aware of so please fill me in with things you have seen. Of course cars with miles are gonna need bushings, suspension potentially clutch and I don’t want to get into rebuilding a car. I am just getting into the research stage at the moment and figure I would start here.
thanks!
Popular Reply
10-03-2023, 05:19 PM
Instructor
I've run both chassis quite a bit and for a "track day fun car", it would be tough for me to NOT pick a c4 first. Especially an early C4 with the better geometry.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE me some C5. I work for a company that sells a ton of C5 go-fast parts.
But two things JUMP out at me.
1. You're not doing this to have the fastest car in your group...you're doing it to get solid track time
2. Things go wrong. Things get damaged. C4 parts are very inexpensive
On top of that, a clutch job in a c4 isn't bad....in a C5 the torque tube is coming out.
I can easily jump on the C5 bandwagon and if a smoking deal falls in your lap, then you embrace it.
Now, if you know in a few years you're going to get competitive in classing and going for trophies, then the C5 might have an advantage. It certainly HAS the support advantage, but there are a few unicorn C4s that go awfully fast.
Costas
cars and such...
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE me some C5. I work for a company that sells a ton of C5 go-fast parts.
But two things JUMP out at me.
1. You're not doing this to have the fastest car in your group...you're doing it to get solid track time
2. Things go wrong. Things get damaged. C4 parts are very inexpensive
On top of that, a clutch job in a c4 isn't bad....in a C5 the torque tube is coming out.
I can easily jump on the C5 bandwagon and if a smoking deal falls in your lap, then you embrace it.
Now, if you know in a few years you're going to get competitive in classing and going for trophies, then the C5 might have an advantage. It certainly HAS the support advantage, but there are a few unicorn C4s that go awfully fast.
Costas
cars and such...
#2
Instructor
The C5 cars are newer and therefore have better brakes, suspensions, transmissions and ABS systems. I would try to land a 2002-2004 base car because they are cheaper and more aerodynamic at high speed (not that it really matters on most tracks). The factory brakes with good pads and fluid and spindle ducting can take you a long way. I drive a C5 daily and do HPDE days and drag race it as well. I was on a Lemons team that had two C4 Corvettes. I was one of the team mechanics and so I am somewhat familiar with both platforms. The C5's have the all aluminum LS-1 or LS-6 paired to a T56 transmission. That combination would be expensive to replicate in a C4. Both C4's and C5s can be outstanding track cars. C5s are easier to find upgrade parts for, such as good hubs and big brake kits. In factory trim the C5 is better balanced due to the transmission location. C4s can be had really cheaply, which is a major draw for some folks. With your budget I would do a C5 base car with the lowest miles possible.
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The C5 cars are newer and therefore have better brakes, suspensions, transmissions and ABS systems. I would try to land a 2002-2004 base car because they are cheaper and more aerodynamic at high speed (not that it really matters on most tracks). The factory brakes with good pads and fluid and spindle ducting can take you a long way. I drive a C5 daily and do HPDE days and drag race it as well. I was on a Lemons team that had two C4 Corvettes. I was one of the team mechanics and so I am somewhat familiar with both platforms. The C5's have the all aluminum LS-1 or LS-6 paired to a T56 transmission. That combination would be expensive to replicate in a C4. Both C4's and C5s can be outstanding track cars. C5s are easier to find upgrade parts for, such as good hubs and big brake kits. In factory trim the C5 is better balanced due to the transmission location. C4s can be had really cheaply, which is a major draw for some folks. With your budget I would do a C5 base car with the lowest miles possible.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#6
Racer
The C5 cars are newer and therefore have better brakes, suspensions, transmissions and ABS systems. I would try to land a 2002-2004 base car because they are cheaper and more aerodynamic at high speed (not that it really matters on most tracks). The factory brakes with good pads and fluid and spindle ducting can take you a long way. I drive a C5 daily and do HPDE days and drag race it as well. I was on a Lemons team that had two C4 Corvettes. I was one of the team mechanics and so I am somewhat familiar with both platforms. The C5's have the all aluminum LS-1 or LS-6 paired to a T56 transmission. That combination would be expensive to replicate in a C4. Both C4's and C5s can be outstanding track cars. C5s are easier to find upgrade parts for, such as good hubs and big brake kits. In factory trim the C5 is better balanced due to the transmission location. C4s can be had really cheaply, which is a major draw for some folks. With your budget I would do a C5 base car with the lowest miles possible.
I agree. I've run both as track cars, a C5 Z06 is a great place to start. Its track ready as it sits. If you want upgraded components over time, there is still lots of options available, where its getting harder to find upgrade components for C4. On either platform, I wouldn't worry too much about high miles if the car is well maintained and doesn't leak or smoke etc.. I put about 200k miles on my C4 including thousands of miles on the track. I'd consider a 2001 Z06 to save some coin. People continue to fear oil consumption in the 2001, but it has been solved in any 01 still on the road, and the 20HP bump you get in 2002 may not be worth the price delta you find in the market.
You should also consider operating budget. One thing I don't know and it might be worth studying, is what is the delta on track rubber. Tires are going to be a big chunk of your operating cost.
Either way, I don't think you can go wrong.
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
#7
Racer
I was in your shoes just 6 months ago. Ended up finding a '99 Basemodel (Fixed roof, 6-speed). High miles 172k, but someone had set it up for HPDE with new shocks, upgraded Radiator, square wheel setup, new LS7 clutch, great Summer tires, shifter, track and street pads. Has headers/exhaust to boot. Only cost me $12.5k. Made some minor repairs, mostly cosmetic and now am starting HPDE. Changed all fluids, had my oil tested by Blackstone labs, and they gave me the thumbs up as to the condition of the motor. Body is straight, no accidents, paint could be better, but not important because racecar.
Point is, deals can be found.
Point is, deals can be found.
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
#8
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2003
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I don't track much, but I do autocross quite a bit. Most of my experience is in stock class C4 (91 automatic and 90 ZR-1) and an occasional ride in a stock C5 Z06. I've autcrossed a base C5 and a C7 Z51 also.
The C4 isn't a bad car. A lot of people put it down because they don't have the horsepower of the newer cars. I've upgraded my suspension on by base 91 to Z51 specs (springs, sways, and shocks). I have 18x9.5 with 275/45/18 in front and 18x10.5 with 295/35/18 in the rear. Eventually I would like to do 18x10.5 with 315 all the way around. It handles pretty well now and is fairly balanced. It just doesn't have enough power. The saving grace for me is the L98 has quite a bit of torque which helps coming out of a corner. A con is they are not as easy to get in/out of as a C5.
The C5 is the better platform. Suspension setup and overall balance of the car is much better. They handle very well. Even with all the newer cars, a C5 Z06 is hard to beat on an autocross course. It goes through the corners so much better than the C4 and has the power to get down a straight quicker. On average on a 45sec course, I would be about 1.5-2 sec quicker in the C5 than a C4. The C5 also responds quite well to a square 18x10.5 setup.
The C4 isn't a bad car. A lot of people put it down because they don't have the horsepower of the newer cars. I've upgraded my suspension on by base 91 to Z51 specs (springs, sways, and shocks). I have 18x9.5 with 275/45/18 in front and 18x10.5 with 295/35/18 in the rear. Eventually I would like to do 18x10.5 with 315 all the way around. It handles pretty well now and is fairly balanced. It just doesn't have enough power. The saving grace for me is the L98 has quite a bit of torque which helps coming out of a corner. A con is they are not as easy to get in/out of as a C5.
The C5 is the better platform. Suspension setup and overall balance of the car is much better. They handle very well. Even with all the newer cars, a C5 Z06 is hard to beat on an autocross course. It goes through the corners so much better than the C4 and has the power to get down a straight quicker. On average on a 45sec course, I would be about 1.5-2 sec quicker in the C5 than a C4. The C5 also responds quite well to a square 18x10.5 setup.
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
#9
Burning Brakes
For $20k I would go C5 no question. I have tracked a C4 and C5, and the C5 is a much better starting point. You could find a higher mileage Z at that price, or just buy a coupe or FRC that you could eventually upgrade. There are occasionally HPDE C5s posted here that you could grab and save a bunch of money over doing it yourself.
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
#10
Race Director
Buy one already built and there is a C4 track car for sale now in the classified section.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-race-car.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-race-car.html
#11
Burning Brakes
Buy one already built and there is a C4 track car for sale now in the classified section.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-race-car.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-race-car.html
#12
Tech Contributor
Buy one already built and there is a C4 track car for sale now in the classified section.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-race-car.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-race-car.html
C4s are like floppy noodles regarding chassis stiffness so with this one having a cage, you're way ahead and still below budget.
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Amelio (10-03-2023)
#13
Instructor
I've run both chassis quite a bit and for a "track day fun car", it would be tough for me to NOT pick a c4 first. Especially an early C4 with the better geometry.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE me some C5. I work for a company that sells a ton of C5 go-fast parts.
But two things JUMP out at me.
1. You're not doing this to have the fastest car in your group...you're doing it to get solid track time
2. Things go wrong. Things get damaged. C4 parts are very inexpensive
On top of that, a clutch job in a c4 isn't bad....in a C5 the torque tube is coming out.
I can easily jump on the C5 bandwagon and if a smoking deal falls in your lap, then you embrace it.
Now, if you know in a few years you're going to get competitive in classing and going for trophies, then the C5 might have an advantage. It certainly HAS the support advantage, but there are a few unicorn C4s that go awfully fast.
Costas
cars and such...
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE me some C5. I work for a company that sells a ton of C5 go-fast parts.
But two things JUMP out at me.
1. You're not doing this to have the fastest car in your group...you're doing it to get solid track time
2. Things go wrong. Things get damaged. C4 parts are very inexpensive
On top of that, a clutch job in a c4 isn't bad....in a C5 the torque tube is coming out.
I can easily jump on the C5 bandwagon and if a smoking deal falls in your lap, then you embrace it.
Now, if you know in a few years you're going to get competitive in classing and going for trophies, then the C5 might have an advantage. It certainly HAS the support advantage, but there are a few unicorn C4s that go awfully fast.
Costas
cars and such...
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was in your shoes just 6 months ago. Ended up finding a '99 Basemodel (Fixed roof, 6-speed). High miles 172k, but someone had set it up for HPDE with new shocks, upgraded Radiator, square wheel setup, new LS7 clutch, great Summer tires, shifter, track and street pads. Has headers/exhaust to boot. Only cost me $12.5k. Made some minor repairs, mostly cosmetic and now am starting HPDE. Changed all fluids, had my oil tested by Blackstone labs, and they gave me the thumbs up as to the condition of the motor. Body is straight, no accidents, paint could be better, but not important because racecar.
Point is, deals can be found.
Point is, deals can be found.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input fellas! If I were to find a good deal on a C5, what are the minimum upgrades you would suggest outside of fluids, brake pads and tires? I agree finding an already setup C4 would be the way to go if I decide on that platform. Same way on a C5 as an already built car save a lot of time and money. I do find a lot of C5’s for decent money but the majority are auto’s, it’s amazing how few manuals are out there!
#16
Tech Contributor
Thanks for all the input fellas! If I were to find a good deal on a C5, what are the minimum upgrades you would suggest outside of fluids, brake pads and tires? I agree finding an already setup C4 would be the way to go if I decide on that platform. Same way on a C5 as an already built car save a lot of time and money. I do find a lot of C5’s for decent money but the majority are auto’s, it’s amazing how few manuals are out there!
transmission cooler
oil cooler
bigger radiator
Accusump
I'm sure you'll get a thousand other opinions but the above will give you a very mechanically reliable car.
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Amelio (10-05-2023)
#17
Instructor
I agree. I would add inexpensive sway bars like Progress 35 front 25 rear bars and reproduction 18x10.5 wheels and decent track tires, preferably 315's.
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Amelio (10-05-2023)
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
that makes sense, I do t want to get too deep in the weeds as this will start out as a fun track day toy. I expect some very basic mods like this to ensure the car is reliable.
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Amelio (10-11-2023)
#20
Drifting
I tracked my GS w/ Z51 for 5 years and did 12 seasons in C5 Z06. No comparison IMHO.
I would go with C5.
My experience:
Stock motor and exhaust. Replaced valve springs with stock yellow beehives about 15 years ago. Try not to hit rev limiter too often.
Replaced OEM Timken wheel bearings with SKF X-tracker as they failed.
Mostly ran scrubs from J. Berget tires. Every once in a while found a clearance deal on new Hoosier tires.
275 or 315's on front 17x9.5 and 315 or 335 on rear 18x10.5 - different handling characteristics, but they all worked. Would have gone 18" square if I continued to track the car.
T1 sway bars helped with wear on outer corner of tires. 2 degrees negative and zero toe up front & 1.5 negative with maybe 1/8" toe in rear. Works for street and track. Even tread wear.
Torqued alignment cam bolts to factory spec and never loosened in many years of street and track driving.
Stock calipers are adequate, but the pads are expensive. Changed out rubber hoses for safety. Could not feel any difference in pedal.
Switched to AP calipers using stock rotors. Rock solid pedal and reasonably priced race pads. Best modification ever.
Stock rotors will crack if they cool down too fast. Always carried spares. Mixing left and right rotors made no difference.
10W30 Mobil 1 with annual oil changes. Royal Purple Synchromax & Maxgear 75/90. Other synthetics probably would produce similar results.
Never had brake cooling. Antifreeze is OEM Dexcool factory fill. Had to add a little bit over the years due to minor leaks & bad pressure cap.
I had Brey-Krause harness bar & 6 point cam lock harness.
Car has around 55k miles on it and goes to work every day in summer. Winter storage: disconnect negative battery cable.
Not the fastest guy out there. Typically ran mid to low 2:30's at Road America in Elkhart Lake.
I think I have blathered on enough. Have fun.
I would go with C5.
My experience:
Stock motor and exhaust. Replaced valve springs with stock yellow beehives about 15 years ago. Try not to hit rev limiter too often.
Replaced OEM Timken wheel bearings with SKF X-tracker as they failed.
Mostly ran scrubs from J. Berget tires. Every once in a while found a clearance deal on new Hoosier tires.
275 or 315's on front 17x9.5 and 315 or 335 on rear 18x10.5 - different handling characteristics, but they all worked. Would have gone 18" square if I continued to track the car.
T1 sway bars helped with wear on outer corner of tires. 2 degrees negative and zero toe up front & 1.5 negative with maybe 1/8" toe in rear. Works for street and track. Even tread wear.
Torqued alignment cam bolts to factory spec and never loosened in many years of street and track driving.
Stock calipers are adequate, but the pads are expensive. Changed out rubber hoses for safety. Could not feel any difference in pedal.
Switched to AP calipers using stock rotors. Rock solid pedal and reasonably priced race pads. Best modification ever.
Stock rotors will crack if they cool down too fast. Always carried spares. Mixing left and right rotors made no difference.
10W30 Mobil 1 with annual oil changes. Royal Purple Synchromax & Maxgear 75/90. Other synthetics probably would produce similar results.
Never had brake cooling. Antifreeze is OEM Dexcool factory fill. Had to add a little bit over the years due to minor leaks & bad pressure cap.
I had Brey-Krause harness bar & 6 point cam lock harness.
Car has around 55k miles on it and goes to work every day in summer. Winter storage: disconnect negative battery cable.
Not the fastest guy out there. Typically ran mid to low 2:30's at Road America in Elkhart Lake.
I think I have blathered on enough. Have fun.