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How are the tie down points on a C7 ? Haven't gotten it up on the trailer yet.. and haven't even gotten under it. Are they trailer friendly ??
The tie-down slots work very well and provide a very secure tie-down for C-7. You may want to check your trailer width - the C-7 Z-o6 and GS are wider than previous vettes - make sure it will fit and that the ramps attach (or can be set) far enough apart. 7 ft ramps will help with loading also. Enjoy!
Last edited by PaConehead; 05-24-2021 at 12:37 PM.
7' ramps.. will the factory splitter still scrap ?
Of course it depends on the height of trailer deck/dovetail, but I used to load my C7 GS (stock rise height) on a ATC open trailer with 7ft ramps - it barely touched the ramps when loading. Using the tongue jack helped, but I didn't like to raise the front of trailer when loading. Worked ok for me - but receiver height and drop on the hitch ball will all play a role.
OK, here is the deal. I have a C6 but for the most part it is the same.
I would tie down to the wheels personally rather than the anchor points. Use wheel straps that are extra wide (32") or the "over the wheel" types, lots of options of both. My jack points have pucks "glued in" so it is a no go for me, plus I just dont like how it ties down on a 18 foot open trailer.
Also, standard ramps will not cut it for getting it up on the deck. I have a lowered deck with a dovetail that is 18" long. I had to make ramp extenstions to get it up an on without too much hastle.
I have jacking pucks in those slots, and use wheel ties from Mac's:
I've heard that those slots could easily damage the frame in the event of an accident, which convinced me further to leave them to jacking pucks at the time...
You need to be strapping through the wheels. Not to the body. I have personally seen the T slots ripped open on a transport truck and guess what, it counts as frame damage. Also the straps when attached to the body are constantly being stretched with every bump which can lead to loosening. Let the body move up and down just as if it was on the road. It doesn't affect the trailer.
I would think if you have an accident that generates enough force to booger the T slots in chassis, you are going to booger all kinds of stuff wherever tied down. I have been using the T slots in C5 for over 15 years and use the same method on C7. As said earlier, some C7's are quite a bit wider than others. My ZR1 is 7'4" wide in splitter. I had to get an open trailer so I am able to remove fenders for clearance while loading even though my enclosed accommodates my C5 just fine. When loading the C7 I back tow vehicle rear wheels up onto ramps to elevate the rear of the truck which tilts rear of trailer downward. This allows lower ramp angle for loading.
I like tieing to the tie-down points on the frame. Letting the car bounce on the trailer completely unrestrained isn't a good idea for trailer control. The trailer has a suspension and with the car bouncing, you can get a harmonic resonance between the two. The tie-down straps don't completely restrain the car but they help dissipate the bouncing quicker. As for the straps stretching while on the road they don't stretch any more tied to the frame than they do to the suspension or the wheels.
The T slot that I have seen ripped out was not the result of an accident, just a transport. Pick your poison and do it however you like just make sure the car is in gear and parking brake on.
05-23-2021, 05:06 PM
C7 on trailer ?
