When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I like tieing to the tie-down points on the frame. Letting the car bounce on the trailer completely unrestrained isn't a good idea for trailer control. The trailer has a suspension and with the car bouncing, you can get a harmonic resonance between the two. The tie-down straps don't completely restrain the car but they help dissipate the bouncing quicker. As for the straps stretching while on the road they don't stretch any more tied to the frame than they do to the suspension or the wheels.
Bill
I leave my car in gear and parking break on, so the straps are not getting a work out. Merely prevents the car from moving around if there is a big bump or tilt. I tow a 22 foot enclosed with a very short wheel base SUV. I do not use sway control and the car is stable at 75mph with me tying the wheels down. When I had an open I towed at 80-85mph.
I leave my car in gear and parking break on, so the straps are not getting a work out. Merely prevents the car from moving around if there is a big bump or tilt. I tow a 22 foot enclosed with a very short wheel base SUV. I do not use sway control and the car is stable at 75mph with me tying the wheels down. When I had an open I towed at 80-85mph.
The times I have used straps around or through the wheels did not allow a straight shot to the trailer tie down point. The front bumper or deflector got in the way. Of course, this could mar the contact with car and/or possibly chafe the strap. Also the straps would become loose with car shifting back and forth in the slack. Not a good idea to put strap through the lowest point on wheel since a trailer bounce could let wheel rotate under the tension and result in a great deal of slack. Have you figured out a way to eliminate these negatives?
I use the tie down points on the frame. I also crisscross the straps. I have trailered my 15 z06 back and forth to the track for the last 5 years and have had no issues. I have 7ft ramps for my trailer and had to get a set of race ramps so I don’t scrape the front splitter. Make sure your trailer is wide enough, mine is 82in and is still snug.
I use the tie down points on the frame. I also crisscross the straps. I have trailered my 15 z06 back and forth to the track for the last 5 years and have had no issues. I have 7ft ramps for my trailer and had to get a set of race ramps so I don’t scrape the front splitter. Make sure your trailer is wide enough, mine is 82in and is still snug.
That's the way I do it, too. Also, I back the rear of the tow vehicle up on ramps to raise the front of the trailer giving less angle for the back of the trailer/ramps. And, too, I don't have to worry about my C5 rolling on through the front of the enclosed while winching in.
I only leave the car on hand-brake, but not on gear. I remember reading from a forum member that the rocking back and forth on transport has damaged their transmission...
The times I have used straps around or through the wheels did not allow a straight shot to the trailer tie down point. The front bumper or deflector got in the way. Of course, this could mar the contact with car and/or possibly chafe the strap. Also the straps would become loose with car shifting back and forth in the slack. Not a good idea to put strap through the lowest point on wheel since a trailer bounce could let wheel rotate under the tension and result in a great deal of slack. Have you figured out a way to eliminate these negatives?
I have the spats that are in front of the front wheels removed. But when I did have them on they touched the strap. However there were no marks on the straps and I never had the wheels rotate. I mean the car would have to be almost airborne to get almost all the weight off to be able to rotate a set of sticky tires. I don't know how strong you are but I can only get the straps so tight. Also technically you only need to have one end of the car tied down. I used to use a uHaul trailer and they only have a single side tie down system. Car never budged.
I have seen the straps get a little loose from transport when using wheel straps. I tend to go down the road, hit the brakes a bit and go re-tighten. That said they are not that loose...just a click away from being tight again.
I have the spats that are in front of the front wheels removed. But when I did have them on they touched the strap. However there were no marks on the straps and I never had the wheels rotate. I mean the car would have to be almost airborne to get almost all the weight off to be able to rotate a set of sticky tires. I don't know how strong you are but I can only get the straps so tight. Also technically you only need to have one end of the car tied down. I used to use a uHaul trailer and they only have a single side tie down system. Car never budged.
I guess that is a little different. When strapping cargo for hauling in ocean waters or even the gulf you tie it down as though it were going through a hurricane even if only going to next port. When I ride my bikes I dress for the accident, not the leisure sunny flip-flop, short pants, no helmet kind of ride. When I put cargo in my truck I place it against the very front of the bed in case I have to come to a sudden stop. Personally, I would never only strap one end or one side of a vehicle for transport. That just has ugly possibilities written all over it.
Personally I prefer tying the cars down through the wheels over the T/J Hooks. Both are good at tying the car down, but it is easier to reach with the tire method. I also put the parking break on and criss-cross the rear tie downs to keep the car from shifting sideways. I have never ever left a car in neutral, Always in park or in first gear depending on the transmission. Unless you are going 4-wheeling when the trailer is loaded there should never be that much pressure on the car it self to cause an issue.
I think the issue is more vibration than pressure. If the car keeps getting rocked, it might bang on the gear. Anyway, it never happened to me, but I also stopped leaving it at the gear after hearing about it..
I also cross the rear but that is because the tie-down points would have so little strap if I went straight, so I think it just depends on your particular setup. I would honestly rather cross the front end and go straight to the the wheels on the back but my trailer/straps wont allow it.
The possible detriment to leaving in gear is the minute rocking back and forth creating a wear pattern between the same teeth as it makes the trip. There is no fresh lubrication being applied to the teeth. The constant wear at contact point is soon devoid of lube and there is constant metal to metal contact, back and forth. That is the theory anyway. I personally don't want to test it. I tow out of gear. If the straps are not enough to hold the car you might need better straps. I wouldn't depend upon the gear engaged to hold it.
I don't know how GM ships the cars, but they do it ONCE. I tow my car dozens of times a year, and need to be mindful of any accumulated wear. The e-brake is much more secure than the traditional hand brake, and is always at same tightness due to its design. You can trust it much more than a hand brake..
05-30-2021, 09:56 AM
