Al.B

Seems like the section if the forum that would have The most experience with autoblip. Hope someone knows so I don’t have to wait till tomorrow when I call for tech help.

I installed the autoblip per directions. At the end of the calibration, the clutch light blinks. The manual doesn’t really have much of a troubleshooting section but what it says leads me to believe the light that blinks is the one malfunctioning. I checked that the sensor is fully seated. And the car won’t start. It seams like something with the clutch sensor not working which would prevent startup. I hope I didn’t damage a wire. Hope it’s something more simple. Anyone have any insight?

davidfarmer

I installed one for a customer. It never worked, he removed it and sold it. He attempted the calibration many times and it just never worked.

Al.B

Ok so car starts now. I was stuck in calibrate mode for not doing one step correct which I guess won’t let you start the car. Autoblip not working so just have to triage that. I’m sure their tech line will help.

the last error I got was blinking clutch and blip lights at the end of the calibration. Solution below

Boosted_Z

Must complete the full calibration mode before use- blinking means still in calibration.

Been using mine for over a year and love it.

Al.B

Ya, not sure what's wrong yet but it's flagging something as an error. I checked that that all the sensors are fully seated. I'm sure I did the calibration steps right since i read the instructions >10 times and calibrated probably just as many. Only thing i'm think it could be is one of the snaps maybe didn't cut into the wire completely though I got to assume if it snapped shut it should be good.

I'm at work and gonna play with it again later. Right now at the end of the calibration it was flashing clutch and blip at the same time.

Al.B

Do you remember if you used the 2 what looked like just extensions that came with the kit. I needed to use one but not the other. I didn't see them mentioned in the instructions.

Al.B

Wanted to supply my resolution in case it may help someone else. I called the tech line. They told me to try the calibration using 30% accelerator instead of the 100% in the directions. He said this isn’t common to have to do this but a few cars need to have it done like this. The calibration went fine and autoblip works perfect.

Boosted_Z

Well that’s different.. Glad it works now! So far, been a awesome aid for me and see many of these at the track despite what I read in the forums.

UrbanKnight

The autoblip is super sensitive to the t tap connections... Never reuse the taps. I bought a bag of the taps from amazon and if I do any disconnecting of the unit, I replace the tap. Yes it is that sensitive....

Keppler

The U-connect connectors are crap. Mine threw the accelerator pedal position sensor code (p2135?) which resulted in reduced engine power mode (limp mode).

I removed the U-connect connectors and soldered all connections.

Everything has been working great since.

I track this C6Z, the auto blip works great on the track. Not needed for the street.

Keppler

I also called and talked to the engineer who designed the Auto Blip. He did not mention this.

He told me to make the solder connections, which so far has worked.

RX82Z06

I was given the same suggestion. Still throwing codes and putting the car (2005 C6) into reduced power mode.
All wires are soldered after trying the quick connects, followed by butt-splice connectors...
Any 2005’s out there that have this working?

Keppler

Did you replace the the throttle pedal assembly? Some say that fixed their thrown code. It is a cheap try which was the first thing I tried. That did not work for me. I then soldered the connections, so far that has worked for me.

Also the wire connection at the throttle body is a source of throwing the code, Check that connection as well.

RX82Z06

Thanks for the feedback.
As the car was driving fine before the install (and it drives fine when the auto-blip is off), replacing the throttle pedal assy doesn’t appear warranted.
I have pulled and cleaned the connector at the TB as well.
I’m still wondering if anyone has had success with a 2005, which, has differences from the 2006-2013MY’s.

fafb

I’ve been struggling to get it to work in my 2005 for over a year, and I think I finally cracked the code. I was getting “reduced engine power” and limp mode every time I activated the auto blip. I reinstalled it three times, soldered the connections, spoke with customer service, still couldn’t get it to work.

When calibrating the unit, don’t do it with the delay dial set counter clockwise as is indicated in the user manual for 2005-2007. Calibrate the unit with both dials set to 12 o’clock. I did this and it works great, haven’t had an issue since. I’m guessing this fix is only applicable to the 05s as the computer is different from other years. Hope this helps someone!