jstewart10

I built a C2 autocross car from parts and have enjoyed it for a few years, but it is very outclassed so i am contemplating using it for vintage racing and use a more modern car for autox.

My question what running gear changes have people found are really necessary for the types of events that SVRA does? At the events i've seen cooled differentials, dry sump systems, and jerico transmissions, but didn't know what is truly needed. I have also seen various levels of seriousness ($$$) at the events, and to be clear i'm on the lower end of that scale.

I'm not planning to flare my car, and it will be a 327. I modified my mid-70's frame per the old chevy manual, have rebuilt every mechanical item on the car, and have a fuel cell already along with racing seats, harnesses, roll bar, a lakewood bellhousing, and the f40/41 springs/sways with konis. I'll have to pull out my 350 and fuel injection. Currently have an M21 in it, and my calipers have stainless pistons.

Thanks in advance for the help,

Jason

Bill Dearborn

When you say you modded the frame like the old Chevy Power Manual recommended are you talking about welding it to improve rigidity? You should also update the front spindles to 69 or later ones. The early ones were subject to breaking when hitting curbing.

Bill

jstewart10

Correct, filling a few holes, adding gussets, etc.but i did not add to the skip welds. I also converted it to have midyear body mounts.

gbvette62

My first question is what are your expectations, do you want to vintage race to have fun and be competitive, or do you want to run up front and compete for wins? Your answer has a lot to do with the level of preparation needed, as well as the investment needed. If you want to race with SVRA, and want to run up front, you can expect to spend some serious money, and will need every modification available (legal or otherwise). Vintage racing is a lot of fun, and there are plenty of vintage groups where the cost to run up front isn't at the level it is with SVRA.

Midyears race in SVRA Group 6, which is dominated by Corvettes from Peter Klutt's Legendary Motorcars and Alan Sevadjian's Duntov Motor Co, Mustangs, Shelbys and Cobras from Curt Vogt's Cobra Automotive, Jags from Donovan Motors, just to name a few. Many of these cars really push the limits of the rules, especially the ones from Duntov and Legendary. I crew for a driver who races a 65 Corvette that is SVRA legal. We can run in or near the top 10 with SVRA, and run out front and win when racing with other vintage groups, such as the Vintage Racers Group (VRG).

Engines can be bored 60 over, but can not be stroked. Most people racing Corvettes and Camaros are using aftermarket blocks. The 65 Corvette I crew on has a Dart block in it. Aluminum heads are only permitted on 427's and 454's. Small blocks are supposed to use cast iron, straight plug heads, but I know there are people getting away with using angle plug and aluminum heads. Dry sump oiling systems are allowed, and we've raced engines with dry sump oiling, and ones using an Accusump. Stock cast iron brake calipers are also required in SVRA, but since aluminum ones are allowed by HSR, the SVRA seems to allow regular HSR competitors to use Wilwood 4 piston D-8 calipers. Cooling ducts are legal and calipers can be relocated. We've moved our front calipers to the rear of the rotor, making it easier to run cooling ducts to the brakes, and use fabricated spacers to widen the calipers, allowing us to use thicker pads.

Offset trailing arms are permitted, but only stock stamped steel a-arms are allowed, though they can be modified to improve geometry. Any Muncie, along with Borg-Warner and Richmond Super T-10's are allowed, and Jerico T-10's can be used with a 150 pound weight penalty. Midyears are allowed up to an 8" wide wheel, and fenders can be widened, as long as the wheel opening appears stock. Mild flares are often ignored, as long as you're not running out front. Slicks aren't permitted in Group 6, only vintage race tires with tread, such as Goodyear Blue Streak's and Hoosier Vintage TDS' and TDR's.

All the typical safety equipment is required, such as a roll bar or cage, Hans or similar head restraint, fire system, 5 point harness, window net or arm restraints, fuel cell, etc.

Vintage racing is a ball. In the 80's I crewed for a Trans Am team, and for the last 15 I've been crewing for a vintage racer. Though I love the TA Series, vintage is a lot more fun and easy going. We regularly run with SVRA (we were at Sebring with SVRA in February), the Vintage Racers Group, Historic Sportscar Racing (HSR), Historic Trans Am (with a 67 T/A Camaro), Historic Racing Group (HRG is an SCCA vintage group in the Northeast), and assorted independent vintage races and festivals.

PM me if you'd like to discuss vintage racing further, and if you'd like some other contacts to discuss vintage racing with.

For more info you can check out the SVRA's general competition, and car specific rules, at the links below.

https://svra.com/wp-content/uploads/...Rules-2_20.pdf

https://svra.com/wp-content/uploads/...e_C2_63-67.pdf

jstewart10

This is very helpful, thank you.

bjm

Pretty much everything that gbvette62 advised of above. You really need to figure out what groups you want to run in and then build the car to that group. Focus on safety and reliability when first starting out to ensure you are maximizing your time driving, getting better and enjoying rather than breaking and fixing things.

SIK02SS

As was mentioned above look on SVRAs website about rules for the vehicle. We run a 66 big block Corvette and are prepping a new to us 70 small block wide body. There’s good competition in the group. Brad Hoyt is usually the front runner in a big block C3 and there’s usually some quick mustangs and Porsche’s that run with us too. You’ll see everything from wet sump to dry sump. The only things that are easily regulated are heads, intake manifolds, and brakes.

SIK02SS

Also consider looking at HSR too. Most of the rules are the same, but there are slight variations. Try to build to both rules so you have options

jstewart10

thanks all

Pop Chevy

Is that roll bar a 4 point , 6 point or what ? You need some forward bars and are allowed to go to the back of the a arm mounts. Those frames need all the support they can get and you should have solid welded it. I have a fully prepped C-3 BB car here that I built and never raced due to health reasons. SVRA is a really good group to race with but you will be racing with the millionaires, watch your mirrors ! Good luck.

jstewart10

Hi Pop, it is a 6 point but they don't reach up to the front (more like door bars).

Yes i know i would be hugely outclassed by the millionaires, so i guess my real decision is whether to buy a "vintage" spec miata (or a lower class older sedan/coupe) or build off of what i have.

Pop Chevy

The crowd loves the old Vette's . But be warned they are a money pit. At high speed they consume a lot of fuel, tires and brakes. You will need a real good oiling system w a oil cooler or engine costs will kill you, dry sump is worth approx 20 hp and makes the engine live longer but a good wet sump can be made to work. Light weight 3 disc clutch to get you off the corner quicker. Eliminate any rubber in the suspension. A full cage stiffens up the chassis and makes the car easier to drive. You can have a heck of a lot of fun with your car if properly setup. Nothing like a Chevy at full song flying down the straight at 150mph. BTW, do you have track experience ??? If not get some track days in .
Spec Miata looks like a lot of fun too, and costs are way less. But so are the speeds. You have the car, if you have the money then continue to refine it and practice, practice, practice. Good luck and if you need any tech advice we are here for you.

SIK02SS

You may not always be racing against another Corvette(s) when on track. More often than not I'm stuffed between Porsche's and Mustangs. I actually can't recall getting wheel to wheel, or even nose to bumper with another Corvette, granted we are still sorting out our big block car because it sat for so long and a lot of things have changed since last race. The groups are large and being that you have a small block car you will have better handling than a lot of the big block cars. Yes, there are millionaires in the group, but in Vintage racing there are millionaires in ALL the groups. Hell, even in SCCA/NASA. Racing isn't a budget friendly sport. I don't race a Miata or in SM for that matter, but if you get into a Miata with intentions of doing SM races too, it's not as cheap as one might think. All the rules in place to keep it a spec series also makes for higher consumables. A "vintage prepped" Miata would be much cheaper (still slower) way to go about it if you don't care about racing SM. But just my opinion, if you're getting a Miata that fits into or close to SM rules as is, why change away from SM setup if it takes away another place to race..

Other words, don't let other peoples' budgets get in the way of what you'd like to do. We're not all "Big Machine Vodka", but we are all out to have fun and push our equipment

Woitaj

Thanks for the information very informative. Since you help crew for a team do you have a checklist that you use to prep a C2 vette? I am new to racing and have a 1963 Corvette that I race with Heartland Vintage Racing. It would be great to know what others do to prep for races

Woitaj

Hello I have a 1963 vette that I race with Heartland Vintage Racing HVR and was wondering if anyone had a track prep checklist that they use to prepare for race events? I'm new to vintage racing and could use the help

gbvette62

Hello, and welcome to the Forum!

I'm located about three hours from the driver I crew for, so I usually only work on the car at the track. Generally, he goes over the car completely before every race weekend, checking brakes, all fasteners, fluids, plugs, tires, etc. At the track we have a check list that I put together based on one we used when I crewed on a Trans Am team, 40 years ago. The track check list covers things we check after every on track session, and also includes tire pressures and fuel level for before and after being on track.

Vintage racing's a lot of fun. While we usually race a BP 65 Corvette, we just got back from Road America where we were racing our 67 Camaro with the Historic Trans Am group (http://www.historictransam.com/cars.html), part of the Brian Redman WeatherTech International Challenge weekend. Unfortunately, we didn't get to compete in Sunday's feature race, we got a flat on the pace lap in a brand new Goodyear!

If you'd like a copy of my track check list, or want more info on our cars and set up procedures, send me a Personal Message here, with your contact info.

Captain Buddha

Ahhhhh.....Curt Vogt....he's a real "treat" to race against....if there's a wreck, you can literally make money betting that he's in it...and very likely CAUSED it! Video of my own experience with him running in Trans Am....go to the 25:42 mark and you'll see him turning in on me at 167 MPH....it could've been VERY BAD...so...he did that to someone else towards the end of the race...that's why we checkered early under FCY. He went pin balling off the wall through the tri-oval. I've been in other Trans Am races where, yep, you guessed it....there's a big nasty wreck....guess who is in it? Yep! I've got friends that run vintage and they tell me he's the same way there too. So, fair warning.

BTW - gbvette62 - very cool/helpful post!!

gbvette62

I'm quite familiar with Curt, and his driving style. His shop is only a little over a hundred miles from the shop of the driver I crew for, so between that and the fact that we usually run in the same race group, we've probably seen more of him than a lot of others have. Since Curt started racing TA2, we don't see a lot of him in vintage anymore. Curt's been involved in a lot of car to car contact over the years, which is usually highly frowned upon in vintage. Strangely enough, I've seen Curt get away with incidents that have earned other drivers probation, and even a 12 month ban.