BigMonkey73

2012 C6 Coupe / Base Manual 1LT

Clutch fluid was really dark on last event at COTA, even after several flushes it would get dark again. The symptoms were that the pedal stayed stuck to the floor and will only come back up if I pull with my toes. This only seemed to happen when hitting 4th and 5th gear..or maybe high RPM/heat being introduced..not sure. When going slower it is fine, but obviously can't go fast and need to refresh/rebuild to get it running again.

Seems like my slave cylinder is done and needs to be replaced, which makes sense given that I have over 115K on OEM parts. Here's what I have in mind so far, wanted to get some feedback.

New Quartermaster 7.25" twin disk clutch kit with flywheel and throw out bearing:
https://www.quartermasterusa.com/pro...lutch-kit-7-25

Seems to include a remote bleeder according to the picture? Not 100% sure..but I want that. Katech has a remote bleeder that I can add to the list. Quartermaster site says I'll need a GM flex plate too. Can anyone confirm that?

Other bits I've read recommended to replace while everything is out:

Katech Pilot Bearing: https://store.katechengines.com/pilot-bearing-p319.aspx

Rear Main Seal: Don't know part number

RPM Billet Toque Tube Couplers and Bearings: https://www.rpmtransmissions.com/page9.html

Katech Tick Clutch Master Cylinder: https://store.katechengines.com/tick...r-c6-p560.aspx Not sure if this will work with Quartermaster slave. Might need to find another part

Differential output shaft seal: GM Part # 19259473

Not sure what other parts I need to round up. Would appreciate any advice if you've gone through this

gimp

This is a race car, right? You trailer it to and from events and never street drive it? As far as I am aware, those super light QM 7.25" units allow little to no slipping and will last you almost no time at all in any sort of street use. I could be wrong, but ...

BigMonkey73

Full time track car that is trailered, yes.

Why would it not last on the street? I've never used a race clutch.

I just want something to last and I'm going for quality that also has a light weight flywheel and this one seems to fit the bill. Am also considering the Macleod Mag Force.

gimp

Well, I seem to recall that RichieRich uses QM, and he loves his setup, so go for it!

You wouldn't street this car because the clutch basically can't slip. People have destroyed race clutches in under a minute by driving their car into a trailer. You just kinda treat it as a binary thing, engaged/disengaged, and you kinda smack it to launch yourself forward -- even if you're only trying to move forward a little bit and/or slowly.

Grabbed_Crow_Mobe

Awesome clutch, I've been running it for two seasons and am very happy with it. If you've never used a light weight clutch, it takes some getting used to but worth it. Don't drive it into the trailer. Don't drive it on the street.

I was going to tell you not to order directly from Quartermaster as my kit was NOT plug and play for my C5. I had to custom fab the master line. I clicked on your link and since they have an option for a C6 on the order form, maybe they've figured it out. I would have told you to buy direct from Danny Pop who has a plug and play kit. YMMV.

Mine did not. Order one and make sure it has a speed bleeder (or equivalent brand) on the end.

Confirmed, you need one. They're cheap.

The kit has at least one other other thing you need, the end shield (or whatever it's called) for example. Talk to RPM, they'll send you what you need. Big debate on whether solid vs. OEM is the right choice. I haven't formed an opinion. I'm using OEM.

If I were me (which I am) I'd just replace the stock master and use that. I've had no issues with it since I put the clutch in. Some folks (not me) have had problems with the Tick master so I've not fixed what wasn't broken.

Good luck,
Kevin

Jfryjfry

Quartermaster billet retainer sleeve for the slave.