ScottKolek

Not sure what "General" question forum group to place this in, but since it involves towing, thought this group would be a good start. The tie straps I use on my C7, with the T-hook tow points, always come loose/slip, and require re-tightening frequently, especially if it's a bumpy road. Has anyone tried these "ShockStraps" that are not supposed to slip, and have any reviews they can share? https://www.shockstrap.com/

davidfarmer

I've used t-hooks in the frame for 30 years and never had a problem. Straight straps in the front, cross the rears.

ScottKolek

Yeah, my straps still come loose and have to be re-ratcheted all the time.

davidfarmer

your frame must be stretching

strano@stranoparts.com

i don't get it. So the straps in the ad do what any good straps should. If yours stretch, like when they get wet, you need better straps. I'm a Mac's dealer and it's all I use, their 10k direct hook stuff, and also with t-hooks into the frame. Though I cross mine front and rear both. Three years ago a texting teen came over a rise, in my lane, and hit my trailer, ripping both tandems completely out from under it. Car didn't move ('98 Camaro 3429 pounds). About 19 years ago a guy I know fainted while driving home, down into a drainage ditch with his brand new C5Z (this was end of Sept. 2000). His car slid off the trailer sideways about a foot. NONE of his straps were crossed otherwise I bet it would not have moved. And that accident totalled his Lightning, the frame was bent like a pretzel when it came out of the hole. And yes, he was luckily ok.

Also. No way did hitting that deer take him from 70 to 7. His brakes might have but that's not "in no time". I've hit deer and as much damage as they can do, let's face facts, that's not a light truck, add the trailer weight to it, and the momentum of 70mph and that deer went for a ride, he didn't come to a stop from hitting it.

ScottKolek

All tie downs come loose, they stretch or slip, that's why they say you are to check them every so often, which is a huge pain. I was wondering if anyone used the ones I mentioned in this post, that are not supposed to stretch / slip.

I cross mine too, and tighten them as much as I physically can. However if I travel and hit a few bumps in the road, the car of course bounces a bit, and if I check the tie downs at least one is loosened to which I have to re-ratchet it.

See here: https://www.shockstrap.com/blog/why-...-are-traveling

strano@stranoparts.com

It's hype. So they want you to believe that their straps, which stretch as per their wording, don't stretch? Come on now. I mean that's like saying you should put one of their ends on a chain to keep the chain tight. If you are using GOOD straps, and lots and lot of folks do not use good quality, or even lesser quality but adequate weight rated straps, this isn't an issue.

Basically these are big bungee cords.

ScottKolek

Well then maybe I'm using bad straps, I'm using these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-29-0012

strano@stranoparts.com

And you hooking into what? T-hooks or using the axle straps around the wheels or something?

ScottKolek

Yes t-hooks as mentioned earlier on.

strano@stranoparts.com

Hence why I hate working by forum, PM and email, easy to miss things when I don't have 100% to dedicate to forum details while at work. My apologies.

ScottKolek

No problem.

dapopa9

Use these and you will be good - http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/

Also, if you call and talk to their experts they will tell you to NOT cross the straps.

strano@stranoparts.com

I love their straps, they are all I use and set my customers up with. But not crossing. I don't think that's wise, like I said I saw what happens when you don't and get a side force. And saw what happens in a hard hit when they were, so I will continue to do so.

hungryhippo

I use Mac's as well. The only time they've come loose is when i forgot to set my parking brake

dmaxx3500

go to ''farm/fleet'' ,buy the 2''x16' ratcheting straps,with hooks at both ends [$9.95 on sale] loop them thru the wheels [cover wheels with a folded over bath towl]

just pull them front and back

you can cut the straps to size,new straps need to take a set,

drive car on trailer,and postion it ,so theres some tongue weight ,tighten everything down,and drive 2-3 miles,get out and re-tighten everything down,then ck at 50 miles

stop when you fuel-up and walk around the trailer,ck wheel hubs and tires by hand to see if their hot,ck straps again too

SouthernSon

And the reason they gave? Been crossing and hauling for 15 years. No problem and car is in the same spot on trailer when I get to the destination.

fleming23

What happens if a tie down, or anchor point fails? The opposite crossed strap is now pulling the car sideways. If you just go front to rear a broken strap would be less “potentially” detrimental.

MySR71

When you tie the car down, are you pulling the loose end of the strap so the entire strap is tight and then using the ratchet to further tighten the strap? Or are you leaving the entire strap loose and then using the ratchet to tighten the strap so the strap wraps around the mandrel of the ratchet several times?

Olitho

I have over 200,000 miles of towing a car in an enclosed trailer. I bought my straps so long ago I don't know what brand they are or if they are good or bad. I don't have a parking brake and the car is in neutral.

I used to secure the front by going through the wheel spokes, but it seemed that generate pre-mature power steering failures so now I just use the front tow hook on the left half of the car. Yes, just one strap on the front. The rear straps I loop over the rear lower A-arms in-board of the sway bar connection. Their is a 20 degree-ish angle to the rear D-rings that are about three feet away..

I have never had my car come loose and I have driven plenty of crappy roads, emergency stops, flat tires, but no deer or texting motorists. Nor does the car shift in the trailer and I sometimes drive pretty quick on the twisty roads. I'll probably slow down a bit now that I am going to the new stacker.