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I assume you understand there are going to be a "bunch" of washers under that bone when you align it. Gap "might" be less then, but I really don't see how torquing the bone down changes that, I have done a few each of rubber/poly/delrin. Looks to me like one or both pieces of delrin needed to be a few thou thicker at those shoulders. Once again why I went poly, not being a wize azz, just sayin. Delrin needs to be hand fit.
Good luck.
Understood. I'm committed to doing the delrin at this point and am confident we'll get it sorted. I don't mind hand fitting or doing what it takes to get it installed correctly. In theory, I should only have to do it once...so not a huge deal. The only downside is all of this is new to me, but everyone's been remarkably patient so far.
First, I haven't read all of the reply's in this post. But I hope that you've made progress.
I just recently installed two sets (two cars) of the Delrin / Aluminum kits in both upper and lower control arm bushings kits.
All of the aluminum machined parts were accurately machined.
If you look closely inside the the Hole in the control arms you will see that they are Ribbed. What I've heard over many years is that GM never intended these controls arms to be rebuilt.
I use a Brake Hone with Cutting oil very slowly and for a very short period. Then measure each control arm hole and fit them individually. You don't need more than a few Thousands Fit. Check with the Tech Support for their advice. All the kits that I've installed require drilling a hole and tapping the lower control arms for the Grease Zerks
Be certain to keep the individual components grouped, they are all "Match Fitted".
Even though the Control Arms are Aluminum as well as the Delrin Kits. The Aluminum parts in the Kits are anodized and therefore become an insulator. So I always use Anti-Seize for a lubricant, after cleaning all the surfaces with Acetone.
You will love the improvement. Hope some of these photos help out...
First, I haven't read all of the reply's in this post. But I hope that you've made progress.
I just recently installed two sets (two cars) of the Delrin / Aluminum kits in both upper and lower control arm bushings kits.
All of the aluminum machined parts were accurately machined.
If you look closely inside the the Hole in the control arms you will see that they are Ribbed. What I've heard over many years is that GM never intended these controls arms to be rebuilt.
I use a Brake Hone with Cutting oil very slowly and for a very short period. Then measure each control arm hole and fit them individually. You don't need more than a few Thousands Fit. Check with the Tech Support for their advice. All the kits that I've installed require drilling a hole and tapping the lower control arms for the Grease Zerks
Be certain to keep the individual components grouped, they are all "Match Fitted".
Even though the Control Arms are Aluminum as well as the Delrin Kits. The Aluminum parts in the Kits are anodized and therefore become an insulator. So I always use Anti-Seize for a lubricant, after cleaning all the surfaces with Acetone.
You will love the improvement. Hope some of these photos help out...
Michael
.
Just to clarify and avoid any confusion, the bushings pictured in Capt Mike's post are NOT Borg Motorsports bushings. I can't speak to their fitment since I've never personally dealt with that kit. I also want to make sure people don't think our bushings are anodized, as we currently do not anodize them to help keep costs down and keep the turn around time to two weeks or less on backordered items.
Last edited by Borg Motorsports; 04-07-2019 at 05:27 PM.
Any thoughts on how I can get this bushing removed? It appears to have glued itself to one side of the arm and simply wont deform and press through. Apparently, the bushing extruded out one side and put pressure on this side while in the car, heating it up to be as hard as a rock and gluing it to that surface. I can't press it through the other way because it doesn't fit in my vice that way, and stacking stuff up in the 12-ton press has Darwin written all over it. This photo is after it has relaxed substantially. I pressed the hell out of it on my press.
I tried pressing it through, but it simply won't go. Afraid if I keep pressing it even harder it'll mess up the arm as it goes in. Not sure. Tried separating it with a screwdriver, but I'm just dinging up that surface. I'm sure some of you guys dealt with this. What did you do?
If there are no concerns it could possibly harm the control arm in any way, I'll press it until something gives. I haven't been that brave yet.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; 04-08-2019 at 11:15 PM.
I had a similar issue. I took a hacksaw and cut the side that was sticking out and then pressed through the other way with my vice. That seemed to take the pressure off and it went right out. YRMV.
I had a similar issue. I took a hacksaw and cut the side that was sticking out and then pressed through the other way with my vice. That seemed to take the pressure off and it went right out. YRMV.
+1 for this. It’s a bit of a pain to push from the inside of the arm out, but the bushings come out easier that way.
The edge of that bushing has a metal ring in it that holds it in. I used a pair of pliers to bend it out of the way. A few I had to rip the whole section off. It wasn't too difficult to do, just a little elbow grease.
Ok, then I'll ask the dumb question. How in the world could I set my vice up to push that out? I can't fit the arm in my press that way.
Not a dumb question. It all depends on what you're working with. If you have a press, you can usually get away with a piece of metal pipe. You can buy/rent/borrow a bushing removal tool like this one that uses a through bolt or this one that is more like a c-clamp. Usually, one or both can be rented from the local auto parts store. You could also use a bearing separator, also sometimes available for rent. Lastly, you can drill some holes into it to help loosen it up. You don't need to drill to either inner or outer wall, you just need to remove some material to make it more flexible.
Ok, then I'll ask the dumb question. How in the world could I set my vice up to push that out? I can't fit the arm in my press that way.
I didn't have access to a press so I used a vice and sockets. On one side, the socket was the same diameter of the hole and the other side was smaller so it could fit inside the hole. In this case I would put the smaller one on the inside (after cutting the exposed side off as previously mentioned) and push the bushing out "into" the other larger socket with a vice. You will need to cut the lip off the other side of the bushing too so the larger socket can sit on the lip of the hole. In most cases, this would break the bond that the rubber had with the metal that you describe. Then it comes out rather easily. A few we're stubborn and took a little heat.
I did two whole sets of arms this way. Pretty easy once you get the hang of it. But like most of these projects, once you figure out how to do it, you're done and never have to do it again. I guess I was "lucky" that I got to do it a second time.
The edge of that bushing has a metal ring in it that holds it in. I used a pair of pliers to bend it out of the way. A few I had to rip the whole section off. It wasn't too difficult to do, just a little elbow grease.
Well, that would certainly explain it. I'll see if I can pry it up enough without damaging that surface it's seated against so I can remove it. Now that I've put pressure onto it from trying to press it through, I've probably made it a bit more difficult for myself.
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys! The job is pretty easy, it just seems I'm constantly fighting my tools. It seems like the easiest method would be to try and find a way to cut that lip off the one side so I can continue pressing it through like I was trying to do. Otherwise, use some of the tools that were recommended. Not sure I'll get any of those to work with that large lip covering the arms on the other side though. Will have to take a look at the tools and see which one will work.
Well, that would certainly explain it. I'll see if I can pry it up enough without damaging that surface it's seated against so I can remove it. Now that I've put pressure onto it from trying to press it through, I've probably made it a bit more difficult for myself.
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys! The job is pretty easy, it just seems I'm constantly fighting my tools. It seems like the easiest method would be to try and find a way to cut that lip off the one side so I can continue pressing it through like I was trying to do. Otherwise, use some of the tools that were recommended. Not sure I'll get any of those to work with that large lip covering the arms on the other side though. Will have to take a look at the tools and see which one will work.
Cutting it off with a hacksaw like mentioned above sounds like the best plan of action to me, if prying it up without damaging the arms is difficult. I watched some videos were people cut the bushing with an razor blade, but that just didn't work for me.
I used my hacksaw last night on the side that's already pushed out, to try and cut that retainer off and push it out the other way. Sat there sawing for 10-15min and didn't really get anywhere. Same with my sawzall. If you guys made it through really easy, my blades must be pretty darn dull. Always fighting the tools...
Maybe I'll bring home an angle grinder and zip that thing off and find something to extend the press. Will figure something out. Thanks guys!
Probably a little late for this, but get one of these, worth the $100 makes it way easier. I was able to press all mine out quick and easy using it and a small piece of pipe to extend the piston.
Probably a little late for this, but get one of these, worth the $100 makes it way easier. I was able to press all mine out quick and easy using it and a small piece of pipe to extend the piston.
That's the exact press I have. I was going to find a pipe to extend the ram as well. Just need to find something cut that retainer off on the inside so it'll fit through the arm easier. My sawzall and hacksaw didn't work, and my drill wont fit in there. The hacksaw/sawzall have seen a lot of work, so the blades are probably too dull.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; 04-09-2019 at 11:24 AM.
That's the exact press I have. I was going to find a pipe to extend the ram as well. Just need to find something cut that retainer off on the inside so it'll fit through the arm easier. My sawzall and hacksaw didn't work, and my drill wont fit in there. The hacksaw/sawzall have seen a lot of work, so the blades are probably too dull.
I used a jack handle, it happened to be the perfect length and size to work.
I used a drill, too, to get the rings off. One of the stepped (pyramid shaped) metal hole cutting bits worked like a charm.
I used a jack handle, it happened to be the perfect length and size to work.
I used a drill, too, to get the rings off. One of the stepped (pyramid shaped) metal hole cutting bits worked like a charm.
I also have the stepped bits. They worked for the first 3 arms, but they simply wont cut any more. I have a drill bit now, but that drill won't fit on the inside of the arm with the bit attached. Just fighting silly tool issues, but I'll get it sorted.
I did not read thru all the posts, I do have several videos on CA bushing remove/install. Not "that" hard. I am thinking maybe somewhere in your alignment method (of the tools) is where the issue is.
04-04-2019, 02:02 PM
I'll see if I can pry it up enough without damaging that surface it's seated against so I can remove it. Now that I've put pressure onto it from trying to press it through, I've probably made it a bit more difficult for myself. 
