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I bought the AG-H6-24-RS Antigravity H6/Group-48 Car Battery.
OK that explains your weight savings. I saved ~23 lbs from OEM by switching to a 40Ah battery (vs. your 24Ah unit). I picked the larger unit to have ample capacity for slow drains (e.g. camera(s), OBD2 adapter, etc.). As you pointed out, it cuts power in the worst case anyway, so any model would be safe. With this one, though, I'd not have to setup my dash config again all the time (which is lost with power loss) : P
Note: If I recall correctly, that fuse-box-extravaganza on the top is about 3 lbs.
OEM battery is almost 40 lbs with the attached fuse box.
AntiGravity's 40Ah OEM-size unit is 16.3 lbs with the same fuse box, attached; 23 lbs weight is saved! This unit also has a battery management circuit, so it will never go to 0% and kill itself.
I purchased CTEK LiION US to keep the battery topped in winter time, etc.
It comes with a new type of connector, and does not come with 12V plug adapter. I've created my own : ) Corvettes' rear trunk 12V socket is always powered, so it's very convenient to use it for trickle-charging.
Last update for the year. Unfortunately things didn't work out with my last two events like I had hoped. I went to Summit Point with the GS Z07 springs and sway bars but the car still wasn't handling right. It was cold which didn't help but I noticed the inside rear tire was still spinning up a lot on corner exit. One lap I decided to just keep the throttle down and the inside tire spun up so fast it was going 122 MPH while the other wheels were only going around 60 MPH. My clue at the time was the cloud of smoke in the rearview mirror. Here in the data you can see how the inside rear wheel speed is way faster than the others.
I went out for another session after that and managed to slide off the outside of the track at Summit Point T5. Unfortunately that crushed a brake duct and also damaged the line from the shocks to the remote resevoir. I never had a problem with the Z06/Z07 springs but I learned the hard way that with the softer GS Z07 (same as the FE6) springs the connector for the line will contact the springs. When I got home not only did I damage the shock on the other side I also chipped the springs. I'm going to need to replace the front spring and have the shocks repaired. Next time, the shocks need to be rotated to have the connector on the outside - lesson learned the hard way.
With the shocks and spring damaged I waived off my plans to go to VIR and headed up to Katech to drop off the car. They were able to determine that the diff issue was a faulty diff control module which has been replaced. Unfortunately, that also means that much of my suspension tuning is again suspect as the faulty diff was definitely affecting the handling. In any case, we are moving forward with the sequential and motor build so come Spring I'll be back to trying to sort the suspension but with a lot more power to put down. It should be a lot of fun!
Here I am dropping the car off on a snowy Monday morning at Katech.
I hope everyone has a Happy Thanksgiving and look for Jason from Katech to post up on the build once they get started. Here's to 2020.
Our upper coilover mounts are offset for clearance and would probably do the trick. Let me know if you want me to send you a pair to test.
I'll probably be doing something like that for the DSC Sport shocks. Thank you for the offer, but we have a development partnership with DSC on the C7. We do enjoy your coil-overs on some of our customer's C6s.
My spring is doing the same thing. DSC and I are going to have to figure out coil-overs for 2020.
I assume we can just turn the shock around so the connector is facing out. That's probably how I had my last set as I never had an issue. We might need longer lines though to mount the canister.
I assume we can just turn the shock around so the connector is facing out. That's probably how I had my last set as I never had an issue. We might need longer lines though to mount the canister.
The spring hits the webbing on the inside of the front upper control arm at full droop. It would hit no matter the orientation.
I assume we can just turn the shock around so the connector is facing out. That's probably how I had my last set as I never had an issue. We might need longer lines though to mount the canister.
Sean did you ever overheat the ones without the canister?
Sean did you ever overheat the ones without the canister?
No, but the remote reservoir lets you get more shock travel.
Originally Posted by Katech_Jason
The spring hits the webbing on the inside of the front upper control arm at full droop. It would hit no matter the orientation.
I think you're talking about if you run coilovers. I was saying that I could keep running leaf springs and turn the shocks around. Honestly my concern with going coil overs is now you have another variable that you are essentially starting over on. I'd just assume stick with a spring and bar combo that was good from the factory and fine tune it with shocks - at least until I hit their limitations due to other mods like big aero. My understanding is DSC Sport had coilovers working on that electric C7 project.
Originally Posted by TrackAire
Thanks for the update but I gotta tell you,.....Your Ghost tow rig/RV rocks!! Nicely done
Thanks! I have to admit that it makes it much nicer to go to the track when you have all the comforts of home and a comfortable place to get out of the heat.
I think you're talking about if you run coilovers. I was saying that I could keep running leaf springs and turn the shocks around. Honestly my concern with going coil overs is now you have another variable that you are essentially starting over on. I'd just assume stick with a spring and bar combo that was good from the factory and fine tune it with shocks - at least until I hit their limitations due to other mods like big aero. My understanding is DSC Sport had coilovers working on that electric C7 project.
Oh, I see you're saying the connector for the canister line is what impacted the spring and damaged it. I'll have to check mine later to see if that's the failure I had. I assumed the spring broke because we were putting forces on it that it was never designed for (big aero, firmer shocks, etc). I need firmer springs anyways. I think I've reached the limit of the stock springs.
OK that explains your weight savings. I saved ~23 lbs from OEM by switching to a 40Ah battery (vs. your 24Ah unit). I picked the larger unit to have ample capacity for slow drains (e.g. camera(s), OBD2 adapter, etc.). As you pointed out, it cuts power in the worst case anyway, so any model would be safe. With this one, though, I'd not have to setup my dash config again all the time (which is lost with power loss) : P
Note: If I recall correctly, that fuse-box-extravaganza on the top is about 3 lbs.
@Poor-sha@X25 Gentleman, I just got the same battery. Any install issues before or after. I appreciate if u got any pointers for me before the install... tnx in advance and happy holidays
@Poor-sha@X25 Gentleman, I just got the same battery. Any install issues before or after. I appreciate if u got any pointers for me before the install... tnx in advance and happy holidays
There there's nothing complicated about the install. Be sure you have a battery strap to remove the old battery because it's heavy and I don't think you could get it out without one. be careful of the small wire going to the negative cable that's easy to break off. Other than that both batteries are the same size and fit in exactly the same. Installing the antigravity battery is really easy it's so light. I put the h6 40 amp hour one in my car as well but I haven't used it enough to see how it's going to work. I did get some codes and reduced power in the beginning but it worked fine all weekend. The weather's been bad so I haven't had a lot of time to drive it.
11-04-2019, 06:46 PM
