C1 TTU Track Car Project
#21
Subscribed... too cool.
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Short update. I have nearly completed installing a Detroit Speed Decalink rear suspension. Although it was designed for a C-2/C-3 Corvette, it was fairly easy to adapt to the C-1. Required a modified cross member, a hoop to support the front of the differential, and provisions for the 4 forward links. I will have Mark Williams build new forward links out of 1.25"/.095-wall Chrome Moly tubing to get a custom length and enough strength to handle big horsepower and big tires. The 345s on 12.5 inch wide Forgeline GA3Rs fit perfectly. The motor is done and waiting to go on the dyno. Hoping to get on track early Spring.
Pappy
Pappy
#23
Keep up the updates!
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NSFW (02-02-2019)
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Here is the dyno sheet. The AFR was a little fat on this run and the timing was only at 34 degrees, so there should be a little more in the motor with tuning. I'll look at that when I get it installed and on the chassis dyno.
Pappy
Pappy
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#29
Melting Slicks
That's a nasty big block. This is going to be one wicked ride!! What transmission and gearing? Apologies if you mentioned it already.
Can't wait to hear how this thing works once you get it out on the track!!! Makes as much power as the 9.0 liter and maybe a little bit more.
Can't wait to hear how this thing works once you get it out on the track!!! Makes as much power as the 9.0 liter and maybe a little bit more.
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
That's a nasty big block. This is going to be one wicked ride!! What transmission and gearing? Apologies if you mentioned it already.
Can't wait to hear how this thing works once you get it out on the track!!! Makes as much power as the 9.0 liter and maybe a little bit more.
Can't wait to hear how this thing works once you get it out on the track!!! Makes as much power as the 9.0 liter and maybe a little bit more.
Pappy
Last edited by mfain; 03-04-2019 at 12:02 PM.
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Racingswh (03-04-2019)
#31
Melting Slicks
Thanks. The transmission is a TKO 600 Extreme built by American Powertrain - treated gears, better syncros, .82 5th gear, good to 950 ft/lbs of torque. The rear is geared 3:73 (Detroit Speed Hammerhead) - a little low but good for the tracks around here. I'm anxious to get it on the track as well - some stiff and fun, friendly competition here in the desert. I'm giving up some of the nannies, but I believe the suspension is well designed, the car is light, the weight distribution is perfect, big tires and brakes, and the aero is pretty innovative. It's set up to convert to a sequential and traction control (Motec) if I have to, but I'd rather stay "old school" for now.
Pappy
Pappy
The car is technologically unique and exceptionally well done. The sound alone would be worth the price of admission to me. It will be brutally fast and an incredible amount of fun. Hope you get some great video of it in action!!
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mfain (03-04-2019)
#32
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update
A small update. I got my fuel cell from Fuel Safe - they did a nice job of building it to my spec and Scott at fuel Safe was on top of it all the way. FIA certified pro cell in a .063 aluminum can, powder coated with an internal Aeromotive A1000 pump. They built a nice trap door catch area (1.76 gal.) for road racing purposes. I followed Aeromotive's suggestion and added a Setrab fuel cooler to the return line. I got the Detroit Speed Decalink multi-link rear suspension installed which required a lot of body and frame fabrication (it wasn't designed for an old C-1 Corvette). I also bought Cable's (NASA Viper guy) trailer - he bought a bigger one to haul 2 Vipers - LOL. I have a Viper, so I guess the logos can stay. Goal is still to have it on track this fall.
Pappy
Pappy
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
The Viper is a 2016 ACR-E. Great track car. One thing I really like is that the rear is always planted. They did a great job of fixing the throttle-loose issues I had with previous generation Vipers. You can get on the throttle hard and early off an apex with no drama, and that includes slower corners where the aero isn't doing much.
Pappy
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Racingswh (06-29-2019)
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
Haven't done an update lately. Finally got the motor moved back as far as I could and still have room for a driver - #1 plug is 19" behind the front axle line. Big shout out to Mark Williams. They built an 18" 7075 drive shaft that is a work of art. I had to redo the X-member in the frame to accommodate the motor set-back and right offset plus the rear mounted starter. Motor is on front and mid-plates (mid-plate attaches to ears on the Tilton bell housing) and I built a combination trans support/X-member brace that is removable so I can now slide the transmission straight back and remove it easily for clutch maintenance. The SS headers are scheduled to be built Thanksgiving week. I should have the firewall, Woodward steering column, and Tilton 900-series pedals installed by then. Getting closer!
Pappy
Pappy
#38
More pics!
#39
Drifting
It's a high travel/low roll suspension of my own design (Ron Sutton influenced) with 4 inches of compression and lot's of caster gain - that's the reason you see the positive camber on the inside tire (in a turn) in the earlier photo I posted. My son fabricated the CM control arms with Joe's Racing bearings and Howe ball joints. The spindles are ATS with C6 ZR1 hubs and big StopTech brakes. Shocks are JRI, R&P is Sweet Engineering, and the sway bar is a 2000# rate Speedway Engineering piece. I just removed the previous C-4-based IRS in favor of a Detroit Speed Decalink with 1250 axles/CVs which I am in the process of installing. The suspension is a little disassembled at the moment, but I have a few photos of the components that I will include. Note in the last photo (construction shot) that all of the suspension pick-up points are on "slugs" for adjustability of camber, caster, roll center, Ackermann, and anti-dive. I'll try and post some better photos of the suspension more assembled.
Pappy
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Pappy
:
Thanks. I love the car.
Ken
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
I bought the ends from Ron Sutton. The tube numbered "1" has a smooth inner bore. The cad plated part numbered "2" slips inside the tube bore and is about 2 inches long. It is threaded in the inside for a 3/4" heim. To adjust, you loosen the jam nut and turn the cad plated piece to lengthen or shorten the heim shaft length. You do not have to remove the heim at the other end. Hope this helps.
Pappy
Edit: Here is another photo of the adjustment end of the assembly:
Last edited by mfain; 11-22-2019 at 01:14 PM.