ratt_finkel

As some of you know I have been working on building a C5Z TT for Pikes Peak. Which can been seen here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...eak-build.html

While things have changed a bit since the inception of that program. I am very close to putting the car on track for testing. I have a handful of very minor things to address.

However, I am concerned about the potential for oil starvation. I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with the current set up. Or if I should hold of on ANY track time until I can get a dry sump.

My tire options at this point are:
BFG R1 (crusty) 285f/335r
2 sets of Pirelli slicks larger and fresher.

My plan was to start with the BFG's since the G potential is much lower with them than the Pirelli slicks.

Here is a list of the engine build.

TMS Forged piston and rod short block
GM LS6 Blueprinted core block
King Racing main bearings
King Racing rod bearings
Thompson Motorsports single piece cam bearing set
GM Nodular crankshaft turned core
Forged 4340 Scat I-beam connecting rods with ARP 8740 rod bolts
Forged Diamond pistons flat top -2cc
TMS performance rings
Gen III 24x
misc parts Extreme duty upgrade
misc parts H-beam upgrade
ARP main stud set
Thompson Motorsports Lifter set LS2/LS7 style HP lifters
BTR .650 KIT Brian Tooley racing dual valvespring kit good to .650" lift with Titanium retainers, spring locators and high lift seals
Chromoly pushrods custom length.
Custom Ground BTR Cam
LS9 Head Gasket
I think it also has a Melling oil pump.

What is the consensus knowing the potential of this vehicle? My budget is limited. But if I'm risking too much, then I will hold off until I can come up with an appropriate oiling system.

Thank you!

Jeremy

camcam

If I were you, I'd at least throw in a 3qt accusump in there. That shouldn't be too much of an investment both monetarily and time spent installing, it's a pretty straightforward unit.

cwikstro

Do you have the winged oil pan? (I have one if you need it) I assume so since it is Z06, but this is important for wet sump. I agree with accusump. I highly recommend a manual oil pressure gauge so you can monitor if you are starving. I ran that way for a couple of years, and am now doing drysump as I type this, hope to fire and test next week.

ratt_finkel

Yes I have the original LS6 winged oil pan.

96CollectorSport

With all the $$$ you have in this build why take the chance? Get a real dry sump and be done with it - then you won't have to worry about it. You're going to put some serious aero on this thing and you're throwing boost at it - the dry sump will also help keep that thing cool. If it were my build I'd save the money up to do it right the first time.

J.R.

Jeremy,

I sent you a P.M.


J.R.

63Corvette

I concur

fatbillybob

I think, tracks with banking pull the most G's and most sustained G's. I have raced autoclub speedway, michigan int speedway, and Daytona speedway with the same stock LS6 motor and just 1 extra qt of oil per the owner's manual. My motor is still going fine.

Bill Dearborn

As described in the book All Corvettes are Red which was written about the development of the C5 from inside the company the LS engines are susceptible to oil starvation in long high G left hand turns. That is why the C5s came with the winged oil pan and GM started recommending running an extra quart of oil on the track. There are several things you can do. Run a large engine oil cooler plus the extra quart of oil so you have lots of oil in the system plus, add the accusump and keep the winged oil pan. Basically, the engine runs out of oil and as long as you have enough capacity it won't run out of oil for the duration of a turn.

Bill

SunnydayDILYSI

Racer86

4 or 5 stage dry sump pump and correctly sized supply and suction aero quipped hose system, correctly sized swirl baffled tank, and tooth belt drive system..
I guess most REAL race cars that use this type of system are stupid and need to talk with forum experts that kinda race at very slow speeds, and think that they know what they are talking about.
Get a real dry sump system,

ageshelin

You realize that once you are pulling 1G or more the oil in the gravity fed system will go to the opposite side of the pan and climb up the cylinder walls, etc. In other words, at over 1G, the oil supply in the gravity feed system is not guaranteed and happens by accident. The longer the sweeper and the longer high G load is sustained, the greater chance that the pick-up will be uncovered and the oil pump will suck air. The engine will not blow up right away, but it will!

Hence, per wise advise on this forum, since You spent some real $$ on the motor, will run slicks on the track and are skilled enough to pull 1.5 to 2G's (possible with this car without aero on slicks):

1. Accusump may work, the reviews are mixed... It is a nice inexpensive idea. I am not a fan. If the pump sucks air, accusump does NOT help. Accusump, only helps, if the pressure in the line drops. Compressed air is at same pressure as oil, so accusump is not helping.

2. Dry sump is cheap insurance. You will never have to worry about oil starvation and with proper cooler, temperature, at any G load! I am a fan of ARE and Dailey, but there are lots of good manufacturers out there.

3. Good gas at the track is cheap insurance, also.

4. Castrol SRF is cheap insurance for brakes.

Anton

autoxer6

Jeremy,
What lateral G's are you expecting? 1.4?

Also, I dont think there are many long sustained corners at pikes peak. Not like the carousel at Road America.

The LS6 overfilled 1 qt works with DOT slicks generating 1.3 G. It will starve at the full mark.

An accusump will add protection for several seconds. Look for data logs comparing stock to accusump. It does remove all of the low pressure drops. I'll try to find one. They wont work at 2 G sustained, but I dont think you will see that.

I would test the car with your crusty tires now. You wont see more than 1.2 with those. Shake it down, find the other things that need to get fixed.

Chris

stevensa

I've posted this in your PP thread in the past, but you need an accusump at a minimum. Dry sump is obviously better if you can afford it

SouthernSon

Has worked for several years for me. Use the manual valve, though. It saves a lot of solenoid problems later.