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looking for a new cam!

Old 08-21-2014, 01:57 PM
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Bkennard18
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I bought the car with a LG 59X lift cam. Love the power but I am willing to trade some of that for low maintenance high reliability. I have a stock LS6 bottom end. The LS6 heads have been ported. I think the GM performance GTA cam may be the best bet. The car is a track only vehicle that does not see the street. Thanks for any input.
Old 08-22-2014, 10:07 AM
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JohnAlley
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Originally Posted by Bkennard18
I bought the car with a LG 59X lift cam. Love the power but I am willing to trade some of that for low maintenance high reliability. I have a stock LS6 bottom end. The LS6 heads have been ported. I think the GM performance GTA cam may be the best bet. The car is a track only vehicle that does not see the street. Thanks for any input.
I have the Lingenfelter GT21 cam in my 2011 Z06 and love it, big cam, big power.
Old 08-22-2014, 10:45 AM
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J.R.
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For dependability and reasonable increase in performance the GM hot cam (219/228 .525/.525 at .050 on a 112 LSA) or the GM ASA cam (226/236 .525/.525 at .050 on a 110 LSA) or the Tony Mamo designed (224/228 .581/.581 at .050 on a 112-114 LSA).

The above are all proven camshafts that produce good power and dependability (drivability). The ASA cam may be pushing the envelope on the street. There are also lots out there with similarly designed specifications. You just want to make sure of cam profile ramp design. Some specs are similar but use lobes that are more aggressive on valve train. EPS designed camshafts tend to have a more gradual ramp design.

Patrick 'G" can also design a custom camshaft for your specific application for $25.

Lots of good info on LS1tech forum if you do a search.
Old 08-25-2014, 09:50 PM
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Bkennard18
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Thanks for the advice ill try and do a little more research
Old 08-26-2014, 12:43 AM
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JerryTX
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Did LG tell you what you had was more of a drag race cam then a roadrace cam? I am sure Anthony would be able to quickly give you some sage advice as to what to do. .59x lift is not too much lift by itself in my book depending on the lobe shape. Yes you should replace your valvesprings every 12-24 months depending on the number of track days but valvesprings are cheap and the job is easy, why not dig into both the cam suitability and the DIY aspect of valvespring R&R before going to all the effort to swap cams. I ran a TSP 218/218, .598/.598 on 114 for 1.5 years with no issues until I moneyshifted it. That cam wasn't "meant" for roadracing and no it didn't have EPS lobes but spending $300 bucks annually was the smart preventative maintenance given the cam was already installed in the engine when I got it and I didn't have time to go custom at the time. If you were starting from scratch, absolutely get EPS lobes and a custom spec cam.
Old 08-26-2014, 06:52 AM
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Bkennard18
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Last year i broke a beehive and this year it looks like i had a lifter roller bearing go. It locked up and wiped a lobe. I love the cam tons of power when you want it but my main concern is reliability. Track time is the most valuable to me right now. I have had too many track weekends cut short.
Old 09-22-2014, 02:16 PM
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neilvosko
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i would suggest
EPS endurance lobes

from Geoff

geoff@engpwrsys.com

to get the best of both worlds of street mannered road racer i went with a 228/234 with ~.600 lift 113

you may need to call geoff@engpwrsys.com to discuss.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

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