the blur

I have a Chevy 1500, with a leaking Axle seal. The last one lasted 9 months. The bearing seems tight. No play. There doesn't seem to be a grove in the axle. I'd hate to pull it apart again with no solution.

Do they make tighter seals ?
I heard of seal reloctor kits, but I can't fathom how they work.

160,000 miles.

k24556

I fought the exact same thing on my 2003 K1500 Silverado Tow vehicle. I ended up buying a complete rebuilt rear axle assembly from Auto zone. When I pulled the old axle out, a buddy of mine noticed that the steel tube that comes out of the pumpkin was slightly cocked. It was welded in at the factory like that. We figured that was what was eating seals. Anyway, that was two years ago and the rebuilt axle has not leaked at the seal.

The old axle would leak shortly after replacing the seal, and it is a messy job, axle lube everywhere when you pull the back diff pan. Always the same seal and always leaked around the shaft. There is a little pin in the diff that takes a special "reverse" torx socket. Then there is a "C" clip in the diff that goes in a groove at the end of the axle shaft. You have to push the axle inward, then pull out the C clip. And what ever you do do NOT spin the diff after you take out the axle.

the blur

How'd you know I have an 03 !

I'm just disgusted with the whole thing. 3 axle seals already. And the gear oil is $50 a hit

I can't imagine it's bent. But I can imagine the axle shaft is worn.

k24556

Oh, almost forgot. There is a vent at the top of the diff with a small hose on it. That can get plugged up with crud. If I remember correctly, the other end of the hose terminates in a little filter near the gas filler neck.

If that vent is plugged the diff will blow oil out the axle seals when it heats up.

Han Solo

I was gonna say check the vent. I've had the axle vent stick closed on a 99 Mustang and a 03Z. Both stopped leaking after opening the vent up. Both of those had a cap with a rubber disc and spring under them and the rubber disc stuck to the seat.

To check mine I found a pipe bushing with a similar thread to the fill plug, installed a hose barb with some tygon tube and blew into the rear end by mouth. On the Z it was just a matter of blowing hard enough to unstick the one way valve. After it came loose it took way less effort to get it to open on subsequent tries. On the 8.8 I had to pry off the cap and remove the rubber disc and spring. I lubricated that one and crimped the cap back on.