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Losing toe adjustment at the track/HPDE

Old 08-16-2014, 07:19 PM
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Kristobias
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Default Losing toe adjustment at the track/HPDE

Like my title says, I need to get my car re-aligned after each track day. Each time the alignment is checked, adjusted and everything is properly tightened. The rear toe keeps coming out of adjustment on the driver's side. Should I be looking at stiffer control arm bushings to hold everything in place? I have an 11 Carbon Edition, stock other than a moderate track alignment. The track is high speed with sweeping long corners.
Old 08-16-2014, 07:51 PM
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ErnieN85
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Originally Posted by Kristobias
Like my title says, I need to get my car re-aligned after each track day. Each time the alignment is checked, adjusted and everything is properly tightened. The rear toe keeps coming out of adjustment on the driver's side. Should I be looking at stiffer control arm bushings to hold everything in place? I have an 11 Carbon Edition, stock other than a moderate track alignment. The track is high speed with sweeping long corners.
make sure the cambolt is properly torqued first. (pretty darn tight) is not the way to do it.
wrench on bolt head to hold position and torque wrench on the nut
Old 08-16-2014, 09:09 PM
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mgarfias
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Get the camber plates. Otherwise things will shift, even if you have it torqued.
Old 08-16-2014, 10:03 PM
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jtmck
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Originally Posted by Kristobias
Like my title says, I need to get my car re-aligned after each track day. Each time the alignment is checked, adjusted and everything is properly tightened. The rear toe keeps coming out of adjustment on the driver's side. Should I be looking at stiffer control arm bushings to hold everything in place? I have an 11 Carbon Edition, stock other than a moderate track alignment. The track is high speed with sweeping long corners.
Does it always move in the same direction?
I have chased myself back and forth by moving too much each time.
One time it is toed in, change it and next time it is toed out.
Once you have it set, you need to drive the car and come back and check again.
Old 08-16-2014, 10:58 PM
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mikeCsix
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Highly recommend the camber plates. I had one slip on me while on the track, heavy acceleration at turn-out. It isn't pleasant and I was done for the day.

Interesting, my front toe changes. Don't know why either, though it could be the rubber bushings not returning to form after being stressed at the track. I've been considering going to poly, but have heard complaints about increased vibration and road noise and how it isn't really worth it. I/m still thinking about it but have higher priorities right now, like differential cooling.
Old 08-16-2014, 11:34 PM
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Kristobias
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Thanks for the suggestions. Camber plates seem like the ticket to start with. And maybe the poly as well. It always moves the same way. I think the bushings are deforming during hard braking and high speed sweeping corners.
Old 08-16-2014, 11:35 PM
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froggy47
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You or your alignment person is not torquing the nut(s) properly. If it is torqued properly you are exceeding the limits that the car was engineered for & need to change to a camber kit.

If you are on slicks, you need the kit.

Old 08-17-2014, 05:57 PM
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skxf430
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Like the others said get a camber kit.

https://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?f...subgroup=32030
Old 08-17-2014, 10:21 PM
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Soloontario
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Anyone have pics of the camber plates in place, or better an install? Not really sure from the Vansteel website.
Old 08-25-2014, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Soloontario
Anyone have pics of the camber plates in place, or better an install? Not really sure from the Vansteel website.

There ya go.

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Old 08-25-2014, 09:49 PM
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Thanks for the video, that is a great response !!

I would assume at the rear for most track performance, you would use the max neg camber you can get, at least on the driver's side.
Old 08-26-2014, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Soloontario
Thanks for the video, that is a great response !!

I would assume at the rear for most track performance, you would use the max neg camber you can get, at least on the driver's side.
NO, I actually was taking out neg camber when I shot this video, both ends.

I can't recommend specific settings for anyone too many variables, literally dozens of variables.

I would also NOT try different settings side to side (except tiny amounts due to the kit. For example each groove difference = .2 degree on my car so even if I use different plates side to side to correct I may still end up .1 to .2 deg off. That's just how the kit is built. And how the car is built. I wish each groove was a smaller change, but then the kit would need 2x the plates & cost would be much higher.



Last edited by froggy47; 08-26-2014 at 12:53 PM.
Old 07-05-2017, 11:28 PM
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Sorry to bump an old thread, I’m having similar issues with my SSP C6 Grand Sport. However it’s not the camber it’s just the toe that’s out in the front and potentially in the rear (it has happened in past seasons).

When we set the alignment this season we did make a mark on all the eccentric bolts/washers front & rear to confirm that camber was staying put and it has. However the toe out front is definitely out by quite a bit, the cars pulls to the right and the steering wheel is off center. Any thoughts? It’s only been 3 autocross events.

Should I still be looking into getting a Camber Kit?

I should mention that I do have Delrin CAB’s. Any help is appreciated.

And since we always just max out neg camber front and rear what's wrong with the GM kit that pegs it at max?
GM PART # 12480093
GM LIST: $89.69
OUR PRICE: $62.78
DESCRIPTION: PLATE KIT

Last edited by 94boosted; 07-05-2017 at 11:36 PM.
Old 07-07-2017, 02:15 PM
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sperkins
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Originally Posted by 94boosted
GM PART # 12480093
OUR PRICE: $62.78
•2 Kits Required Per Wheel
Includes:
•Large Camber Plate
•Small Camber Plate
•Lower Control Arm Bolt
•Lower Control Arm Nut


That kit would cost you $753.36

<-------------------- This guy has a brand new set for much less.

Last edited by sperkins; 07-07-2017 at 02:16 PM.
Old 07-07-2017, 08:31 PM
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fuggles
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If the control arms are not moving then what can cause a toe change?
Ride height changed.
bushings compressed, sloppy.
tie rod is moving. did you mark the tie rod?
Old 07-08-2017, 12:54 AM
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94boosted
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Well I'm an idiot, took a closer look and sure enough one of the four eccentric bolts had rotated 90* consequently messing up the toe, rotated that back and re-tightened and all is good. Camber kit ordered haha
Old 07-08-2017, 01:26 AM
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Don't feel bad, they have a tendency to let loose hence, the popularity of the camber kits. I use pfadt, but there are others. My right rear cut loose on my very first hpde, fortunately it was a the end of the day, but the experience was unsettling to say the least. Fortunately I did not lose control of the car, but did have a friend trailer the car home for me.
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Old 07-08-2017, 04:52 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by 94boosted
Sorry to bump an old thread, I’m having similar issues with my SSP C6 Grand Sport. However it’s not the camber it’s just the toe that’s out in the front and potentially in the rear (it has happened in past seasons).

When we set the alignment this season we did make a mark on all the eccentric bolts/washers front & rear to confirm that camber was staying put and it has. However the toe out front is definitely out by quite a bit, the cars pulls to the right and the steering wheel is off center. Any thoughts? It’s only been 3 autocross events.

Should I still be looking into getting a Camber Kit?

I should mention that I do have Delrin CAB’s. Any help is appreciated.

And since we always just max out neg camber front and rear what's wrong with the GM kit that pegs it at max?
GM PART # 12480093
GM LIST: $89.69
OUR PRICE: $62.78
DESCRIPTION: PLATE KIT
Not sure but that kit might not fit a C6 or a C6 wide body. Pfadt and others make two different kits for the C6. One for the regular body and one for the wide body. Also I know the wide body front kit doesn't work in the rear although the regular body front kit might work in the rear.

Also there is only one kit required for each rear wheel. Only the front LCA arm is adjustable.

Even though you have Delrin Control Arm bushings I would still check out the bushing's. If the cams/bolts are not slipping something is and the most likely place is the bushing the bolt goes through. The only other thing it could be is worn tie rods.

Bill
Old 07-09-2017, 01:49 PM
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davidfarmer
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C5 and steel frame c6 are the same, c6z and zr1 uses a different subframe. If you set the concentrics at full extension, or rotate just past that so the rounded portion bottoms out at the top of the pocket, they are less likely to rotate. I generally will sacrifice the "perfect" camber setting a little if I can lock it into this position (and camber plates aren't available)
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Old 07-09-2017, 02:28 PM
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Mark@AMT Motorsport
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Just to clarify the C5/C6 steel frame cars all use the same camber kit. Only the C6Z/ZR1 use a different camber kit due to different size front eccentrics in the magnesium cradle.

If you care about adjustability we have the most adjustable camber kit there is for the C6 Grandsport.
http://eaf41998-f6b0-42b6-b5bc-47e94...ble-camber-set

Edit: woops - missed David Farmer's reply below.

Last edited by Mark@AMT Motorsport; 07-09-2017 at 02:29 PM.

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