Bleeder dust caps - yes or no?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bleeder dust caps - yes or no?
Newbie preparing car for regular track duty here.
Ok, so I know that managing heat on the brakes is essential, and I have that under control (SS caliper pistons, heat shields on the brake pads, air ducts feeding air to the rotors, quality fluid, and track quality pads).
Should I remove the plastic / rubber dust caps from the bleeder screws and run with them uncovered, in order to keep the bleeders from being fouled by melted caps? Or do the caps survive intact?
Ok, so I know that managing heat on the brakes is essential, and I have that under control (SS caliper pistons, heat shields on the brake pads, air ducts feeding air to the rotors, quality fluid, and track quality pads).
Should I remove the plastic / rubber dust caps from the bleeder screws and run with them uncovered, in order to keep the bleeders from being fouled by melted caps? Or do the caps survive intact?
#2
Burning Brakes
Newbie preparing car for regular track duty here.
Ok, so I know that managing heat on the brakes is essential, and I have that under control (SS caliper pistons, heat shields on the brake pads, air ducts feeding air to the rotors, quality fluid, and track quality pads).
Should I remove the plastic / rubber dust caps from the bleeder screws and run with them uncovered, in order to keep the bleeders from being fouled by melted caps? Or do the caps survive intact?
Ok, so I know that managing heat on the brakes is essential, and I have that under control (SS caliper pistons, heat shields on the brake pads, air ducts feeding air to the rotors, quality fluid, and track quality pads).
Should I remove the plastic / rubber dust caps from the bleeder screws and run with them uncovered, in order to keep the bleeders from being fouled by melted caps? Or do the caps survive intact?