Originally Posted by Finspeed

5mm seems to be the minimum clearance to avoid grooving from track debris. If this noise is something he is hearing consistently, it is likely not track debris.
Also, if material removed from the inner barrel, there may be reason for concern. The barrel stress is very low when compared to the spokes, but if more than .015" of material has been cut away by the contact, you should call John and get his opinion. I am not sure what CCW's barrel thickness is, but I am confident .015" is greater than 10% of the barrel wall.

Originally Posted by Dr.Ron

Well, as it turns out, once I had a chance to measure the diameter of the rotor hat recess vs. the mounting diameter of the wheel, the wheel was NOT fitting into the recessed area and I DO need the filler plates, which I have as I believe I had stated earlier. I'll throw them on next track day. This may have been why the lugs loosened up I assume...I guess I was lucky that I didn't have any problems!

Here is the filler plate on the rotor.


Here is the scraped area inside the wheel's barrel. The top of the pic is the outer edge of the wheel (for orientation) and you can just see the tape over the wheel weight. The scraped line(s) are obvious. Ignore the light reflection and rubber turds above the scraped lines. The left side is not as much. I only felt and heard the rubbing on left hand turns, but that doesn't mean on right hand turns it wasn't happenning. It just may have been less.


Here is the top of the caliper. No apparent scraping. Just the one black area.


Here is the bottom of the caliper. Besides the black marks-no apparent scraping. So what the heck is scraping?? Could it be the black areas??

Originally Posted by phipp85

The barrel of my wheel is nothing like yours. Mine removed a lot of the finish and you can see where it started to get into the shot peening. That's it.

I wonder if your wheel could have been flexing a little causing it to rub when it normally would not? It was obviously moving since your lugs were loosing up. Do you put a lot of weight on your wheel before you snap the torque on the lugs? I very particular about torquing the lugs with virtually zero load on the tire.

Originally Posted by RDnomorecobra

What do you use as a gun? Get a torque stick to limit the torque applied, I torque mine with it while in the air. http://www.torquestick.com/cart/19mm...-LETTER-C.html

Originally Posted by harrydirty

btw, tightening lug nuts with a gun (in the air) and then using some torque wrench to finish up on the ground works for a lot of drivers, including myself (130+ track days). However, this only works if you have a gun that tightens close to final torque. I generally use a gun that will go higher than 80ft-lbs. I used to use a gun with lower torque but only used it to do most of the spinning to get nuts on/off. While the car was still in the air, I would actually use a torque wrench to manually tighten the lug nuts enough to know that they had seated and the wheel itself was centered properly on each lug position and tight to the rotor before lowering to the ground and finishing with a torque wrench.

Originally Posted by froggy47

I estimate that my IR set at #4 runs them up to about #80, then I lower and finish by hand. I would think almost any but the puniest air gun is going to give you 65-75 unless you get off the trigger instantly.

Good point.