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School me on sway bars

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Old 07-24-2014, 02:55 PM
  #21  
mikeCsix
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Thanks El! I should have gone to the Hotchkiss website. Thanks again for charting it!
Old 07-24-2014, 11:36 PM
  #22  
808EB03Z06
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Originally Posted by rfn026
The easy part is bolting the sway bar on the car. The hard part is knowing the best way to adjust it.

Can you tell if your car is oversteering or understeering on corner entry?

Are you taking tire temps.

You answer yes to both questions then by all means get adjustable sway bars. If you answer no to the questions then put your Visa card away. You don't need adjustable sway bars.

Anytime something is adjustable you have a chance of making things worse.

Here's an article I wrote a few years back on sway bars. It's mainly C4 but the basics apply to any car.



A Trans Am sway bar

Richard Newton
I don't take tire temps, but I can tell oversteer/understeer fairly well. I am looking more so at reducing understeer as I do not get a lot of oversteer right now.
Old 07-25-2014, 10:05 AM
  #23  
Apocolipse
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I need to get some adjustable end links for sure...
Old 07-25-2014, 06:16 PM
  #24  
NealB
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Originally Posted by el es tu


. biggest pita part (time consuming) is getting the car on ramps on a level surface when youre driveway and garage are all slightly off...
I found level in my garage floor for four pad scales (corner weighting a car with coil overs) by using clear plastic tubing from Lowe's

run the hose from one location to another and put some water inside the hose

measure how high the water is from the floor in the center of the spot you will have your pad sitting on -- doesn't matter how much water, just relative difference

do that cross wise and F to R wise and side to side wise and you will figure out that one spot is highest

then shim the other three locations using 1/8" floor tiles from Lowe's

simple and easy to do
Old 07-25-2014, 10:47 PM
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mountainbiker2
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Hose?? Something like PVC, but clear. Not sure I get what your talking about. Does it have to be perfectly straight?

Steve
Old 07-25-2014, 11:01 PM
  #26  
NealB
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Originally Posted by mountainbiker2
Hose?? Something like PVC, but clear. Not sure I get what your talking about. Does it have to be perfectly straight?

Steve

clear flexible plastic tubing

comes in a roll

I used 1/4" stuff

to measure water height off floor, use a rigid ruler like a kids 12" school ruler and tape the tubing on if you like

takes two people, really easy
Old 11-12-2019, 12:21 PM
  #27  
Blitzy
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Originally Posted by mikeCsix
Just went to Strano's website, the Hotchkiss front stiffness quoted on his website states 115% stiffer than the Z-51 bar, seems to me it should be closer to the JOC level for relative rate which would also change the front/rear bias to that of the T-1 or JOC selections.
Bumping this from the dead. Can anyone confirm how the Hotchkis front compares to the ZR1 front? Either of those front bars can be had for around $200 which is attractive to try before going all in on a swaybar combo.

Based on the chart below, it seems like Hotchkis front with C6 Z06 factory rear bar would be similar to Hotchkis front/Hotchkis rear in middle setting. Wondering if this is the case for ZR1 front with C6 Z06 rear.


Old 11-12-2019, 12:43 PM
  #28  
NealB
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If you can get the measurements from each sway bar you are considering, here is a calculator

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Calculator.html

Old 11-12-2019, 03:22 PM
  #29  
STANG KILLA SS
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Originally Posted by C5Z06CE
I am no expert on sways but my understanding was that a stiffer rear INCREASED oversteer if the front was left the same. Softer reduces it. If you increase FRONT sway stiffness you reduce oversteer. Correct me if I am wrong but that is how I understood it.
this is correct
Old 11-12-2019, 03:39 PM
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NealB
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here is the best guide to chassis/suspension tuning I've ever used

Amazon Amazon

I carry one in my autocross/track box



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