- Autocross - (BP) Roll Center correction
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
- Autocross - (BP) Roll Center correction
Hi
I am looking for advise for correcting roll center on a lowered C4 BP car.
It would be nice not to have to redesign the entire front cross member and pick up points to correct 1-2" of roll center.
Maybe a spacer / modified balljoint for the lower control arm?
Thanks Steve
0
I am looking for advise for correcting roll center on a lowered C4 BP car.
It would be nice not to have to redesign the entire front cross member and pick up points to correct 1-2" of roll center.
Maybe a spacer / modified balljoint for the lower control arm?
Thanks Steve
0
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#5
http://howeracing.com/p-7940-howe-22424-fits-k6345.aspx
If those don't work you may be able to have howe put together something for you that fits in your existing arms and has a longer stud.
Another option is to build custom arms and use a taller ball joint.
You can also raise the roll center by changing the angle of the upper arm. Taller ball joint there or move the chassis end attachment down.
If those don't work you may be able to have howe put together something for you that fits in your existing arms and has a longer stud.
Another option is to build custom arms and use a taller ball joint.
You can also raise the roll center by changing the angle of the upper arm. Taller ball joint there or move the chassis end attachment down.
#6
Melting Slicks
In stock form the rear roll center of the C4 is pretty high. I don't think you would want to raise it back up to where it is when it's stock anyway. Somebody made a kit to relocate the lower links, and I believe this kit actually lowered them some more and that improved the geometry. Back when we were running a C4 in BSP we had all the camber curves and roll center motion curves and they weren't very good, there were limits as to what we could do with the car mixing and matching stock parts.
Also remember that the rear geometry between the early cars and later cars was different. We had a later rear suspension loaded under an 84 and as I recall we didn't have much travel once it was lowered. That is, once we lowered it and trimmed the bump stops there still wasn't much travel.
That said, when the car squatted (was under power) the back end behaved a lot better than it did when it lifted (under braking or when you did a throttle lift). Under those conditions the rear roll center raised up and the car got squirrely, which is also indicating that there was a lot of movement in the rear roll center.
I'd look at modifications to keep the rear roll center lower, and then fix the problem it had with moving up and down and you will be a lot better off. I think that can be done by moving the lower attachment points and making or buying new lower links, which shouldn't be too hard.
I think somebody made a kit to do that, but I don't recall who it was.
Also remember that the rear geometry between the early cars and later cars was different. We had a later rear suspension loaded under an 84 and as I recall we didn't have much travel once it was lowered. That is, once we lowered it and trimmed the bump stops there still wasn't much travel.
That said, when the car squatted (was under power) the back end behaved a lot better than it did when it lifted (under braking or when you did a throttle lift). Under those conditions the rear roll center raised up and the car got squirrely, which is also indicating that there was a lot of movement in the rear roll center.
I'd look at modifications to keep the rear roll center lower, and then fix the problem it had with moving up and down and you will be a lot better off. I think that can be done by moving the lower attachment points and making or buying new lower links, which shouldn't be too hard.
I think somebody made a kit to do that, but I don't recall who it was.
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OD - 2 3/8 measured at end. (more specs at Howe) http://howeracing.com/p-7940-howe-22424-fits-k6345.aspx
It looks like the ones at Howe would work, but limited to 1/2" longer.
It looks like the ones at Howe would work, but limited to 1/2" longer.
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://howeracing.com/p-7940-howe-22424-fits-k6345.aspx
If those don't work you may be able to have howe put together something for you that fits in your existing arms and has a longer stud.
Another option is to build custom arms and use a taller ball joint.
You can also raise the roll center by changing the angle of the upper arm. Taller ball joint there or move the chassis end attachment down.
If those don't work you may be able to have howe put together something for you that fits in your existing arms and has a longer stud.
Another option is to build custom arms and use a taller ball joint.
You can also raise the roll center by changing the angle of the upper arm. Taller ball joint there or move the chassis end attachment down.
Great options, Thanks
#9
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In stock form the rear roll center of the C4 is pretty high. I don't think you would want to raise it back up to where it is when it's stock anyway. Somebody made a kit to relocate the lower links, and I believe this kit actually lowered them some more and that improved the geometry. Back when we were running a C4 in BSP we had all the camber curves and roll center motion curves and they weren't very good, there were limits as to what we could do with the car mixing and matching stock parts.
Also remember that the rear geometry between the early cars and later cars was different. We had a later rear suspension loaded under an 84 and as I recall we didn't have much travel once it was lowered. That is, once we lowered it and trimmed the bump stops there still wasn't much travel.
That said, when the car squatted (was under power) the back end behaved a lot better than it did when it lifted (under braking or when you did a throttle lift). Under those conditions the rear roll center raised up and the car got squirrely, which is also indicating that there was a lot of movement in the rear roll center.
I'd look at modifications to keep the rear roll center lower, and then fix the problem it had with moving up and down and you will be a lot better off. I think that can be done by moving the lower attachment points and making or buying new lower links, which shouldn't be too hard.
I think somebody made a kit to do that, but I don't recall who it was.
Also remember that the rear geometry between the early cars and later cars was different. We had a later rear suspension loaded under an 84 and as I recall we didn't have much travel once it was lowered. That is, once we lowered it and trimmed the bump stops there still wasn't much travel.
That said, when the car squatted (was under power) the back end behaved a lot better than it did when it lifted (under braking or when you did a throttle lift). Under those conditions the rear roll center raised up and the car got squirrely, which is also indicating that there was a lot of movement in the rear roll center.
I'd look at modifications to keep the rear roll center lower, and then fix the problem it had with moving up and down and you will be a lot better off. I think that can be done by moving the lower attachment points and making or buying new lower links, which shouldn't be too hard.
I think somebody made a kit to do that, but I don't recall who it was.
Thanks, I am considering raising the batwing up a couple inches as well.
#10
Melting Slicks
Doug Rippie makes a lower control arm bracket that relocates the lower control link for C4's and that's a good start. I would call them and see what they recommend. Looks like the are sold out currently but that's what you need to get the geometry back to some semblance of normal.
#12
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts