SETRAB oil cooler setup C5Z
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
SETRAB oil cooler setup C5Z
Does anyone have a complete parts list with Setrab part numbers including everything to do the install? That would include the cooler, fittings, hose etc.
I've narrowed down to the Proline cooler, Setrab # 50-172-7612
But don't know what fittings, and how much hose is needed etc
I am looking to install on my 02 for HPDE.
I've narrowed down to the Proline cooler, Setrab # 50-172-7612
But don't know what fittings, and how much hose is needed etc
I am looking to install on my 02 for HPDE.
#2
Drifting
This will give you a good idea, but it is a custom install for the 172 so you will need to do alot of work. Lines, brackets, clamps ext.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...iscussion.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...iscussion.html
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for that thread, I was searching but didn't come across that one!
I think I will have the lines assembled and shipped so that's the trickiest part, know what size and how long, seems like the debates are between -10 or -12 on the sizes. Setrab also has many solutions for thermostats and inline filters that could make packaging a little easier.
I think I will have the lines assembled and shipped so that's the trickiest part, know what size and how long, seems like the debates are between -10 or -12 on the sizes. Setrab also has many solutions for thermostats and inline filters that could make packaging a little easier.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
This will give you a good idea, but it is a custom install for the 172 so you will need to do alot of work. Lines, brackets, clamps ext.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...iscussion.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...iscussion.html
After reading all that I am not sure what the best cooler would be for what I am doing..
#5
Racer
I debated between the 172 and the 660 myself. I went with the 172 since it packages better and doesn't significantly restrict airflow more than the factory (C6) cooler. I'll be testing my setup at Sebring in September, so it will be a *real* test.
Matt (blkbrd69) will be testing a 6xx series cooler in the same time frame (also at Sebring). Our cars are very similar so that should give you some good data to make a decision -- if you can wait that long.
Matt (blkbrd69) will be testing a 6xx series cooler in the same time frame (also at Sebring). Our cars are very similar so that should give you some good data to make a decision -- if you can wait that long.
#6
Drifting
The big question is what are you actually doing and what temperatures are you seeing on track? Not what you may want to do in the future?
I say this as HPDE's are a whole different environment, there is no need to modify the car before getting started. Then work on safety, brakes and engine cooling. The stock C6Z with good brake pads and fluid is a great starting point. Where you are located temperatures may not be a problem?
I did a 625 on my last car and while it did work for the platform I had it on, if I did it again on that previous car I would have used a C6Z cooler or a 172. The 660 I am debating is a monster experiment that I may have to change after one weekend?
The Doug Rippie kit seems to be well sorted out and allot easier to do if you lack the fabrication skills and tools needed to make a setup from scratch. I would prefer a thermostat like the one from Improved Racing if you drive on the street.
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
Really need to do some track days on the stock setup and see where you are. Many of us start out thinking power, that is the last thing you need with a track car. You will probably need engine cooling before oil cooling and then you can just use one of the dual setups.
Plan on a couple of sets of brake pads and a set of rotors before you get to that point.
Last edited by blkbrd69; 07-16-2014 at 11:03 AM.
#7
Safety Car
619 Mounted behind the front plate cover. Mounted it directly into the front impact foam behind the bumper with plenty of clearance behind it for airflow. Simply cut out the plastic behind your front plate cover. For track use remove the plate cover, for street use put it back on and no one knows its there. The 625 is far to big for anything that is street driven you will have a hard time getting the engine to full operating temp on cooler days. The 619 works very well. Whole install cost less then $400 to do including the cooler, -10 lines, fittings, and oil adapter block.
#8
I am at a point now on my c5z that I need oil cooling but the water temp never moves up past around 210 still. Oil hits 289 on the DIC if i get a clean enough track to stay on the car and push it past 6k for more than a couple laps. I was so ready to put in a dewits with the oil cooler in the radiator but i am glad i didnt now, as i dont seem to have cooling capacity issues just oil temp issues.
Mind you in wisconsin even in summer its more likely to be in the 80's than 90's. My last track days were in the high 70's with track temp in the 105 range. You southerners that run in 95 likely have different cooling requirements.
On a side note the improved racing block says discontinued on their page if you want the one that fits the stock sensor. Pretty big bummer as that was my plan. Anyone know of a good replacement?
Mind you in wisconsin even in summer its more likely to be in the 80's than 90's. My last track days were in the high 70's with track temp in the 105 range. You southerners that run in 95 likely have different cooling requirements.
On a side note the improved racing block says discontinued on their page if you want the one that fits the stock sensor. Pretty big bummer as that was my plan. Anyone know of a good replacement?
Last edited by Socko; 07-16-2014 at 04:14 PM.
#9
Instructor
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Philadelphia PA
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Is the LS low-profile block not compatible with Corvettes? Without looking at the dimensions, I have no idea, but they look nearly identical- there are three products listed, one is listed for C5s, the other two say "LS" engines.
#10
looks like the other block is 1/8th" npt which uses a 8.61 drill bit and the vette sensor is 12x1.5 which uses a 10.7mm drill bit by the best info i can find. So possibly drilling and retaping is the solution? No idea just trying to find out what other people are doing.
Last edited by Socko; 07-17-2014 at 01:23 PM.
#11
Safety Car
Yes, the OEM temp sensor is M12 x 1.5.
It may be easier weld an M12 x 1.5 bung onto a 12AN tee or bulkhead fitting.
I have a spare aluminum M12 x 1.5 piece if someone wants to go this route, PM me.
It may be easier weld an M12 x 1.5 bung onto a 12AN tee or bulkhead fitting.
I have a spare aluminum M12 x 1.5 piece if someone wants to go this route, PM me.
#12
Drifting
I went with the 625 for my street/track C5 Z in Florida. I mostly track at Sebring. When I'm not tracking I tape up the entire oil cooler with blue painters tape. It raises the street oil temps into the 180's most of the time, 190's if I'm doing city driving. If you double layered it would get even hotter. It only takes a few minutes to put it on and I just rip it back off before I start the next track day.
At Sebring in June I'm seeing 245-255 oil temps if I stay out long enough.
At Sebring in June I'm seeing 245-255 oil temps if I stay out long enough.
#13
I was talking with Michael @ Improved Racing about the discontinued thermostat. Great guy and fast support!
This is what he said:
"We discontinued that model due to low sales volume so there aren't any plans for a replacement. The only difference between EGM-122 and EGM-112 is that EGM-122 has the M12 sensor port for the factory Corvette temp sensor.
Some customers have also drilled and tapped the 1/8" NPT hole on the EGM-112 to the M12 size, but you have to be very careful when doing this to prevent any leaks."
This is what he said:
"We discontinued that model due to low sales volume so there aren't any plans for a replacement. The only difference between EGM-122 and EGM-112 is that EGM-122 has the M12 sensor port for the factory Corvette temp sensor.
Some customers have also drilled and tapped the 1/8" NPT hole on the EGM-112 to the M12 size, but you have to be very careful when doing this to prevent any leaks."
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Note both our cars are on very hot environment tracks with lots of BTU's of engine heat. May be overkill for a C5, and front breathers
The big question is what are you actually doing and what temperatures are you seeing on track? Not what you may want to do in the future?
I say this as HPDE's are a whole different environment, there is no need to modify the car before getting started. Then work on safety, brakes and engine cooling. The stock C6Z with good brake pads and fluid is a great starting point. Where you are located temperatures may not be a problem?
I did a 625 on my last car and while it did work for the platform I had it on, if I did it again on that previous car I would have used a C6Z cooler or a 172. The 660 I am debating is a monster experiment that I may have to change after one weekend?
The Doug Rippie kit seems to be well sorted out and allot easier to do if you lack the fabrication skills and tools needed to make a setup from scratch. I would prefer a thermostat like the one from Improved Racing if you drive on the street.
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
Really need to do some track days on the stock setup and see where you are. Many of us start out thinking power, that is the last thing you need with a track car. You will probably need engine cooling before oil cooling and then you can just use one of the dual setups.
Plan on a couple of sets of brake pads and a set of rotors before you get to that point.
The big question is what are you actually doing and what temperatures are you seeing on track? Not what you may want to do in the future?
I say this as HPDE's are a whole different environment, there is no need to modify the car before getting started. Then work on safety, brakes and engine cooling. The stock C6Z with good brake pads and fluid is a great starting point. Where you are located temperatures may not be a problem?
I did a 625 on my last car and while it did work for the platform I had it on, if I did it again on that previous car I would have used a C6Z cooler or a 172. The 660 I am debating is a monster experiment that I may have to change after one weekend?
The Doug Rippie kit seems to be well sorted out and allot easier to do if you lack the fabrication skills and tools needed to make a setup from scratch. I would prefer a thermostat like the one from Improved Racing if you drive on the street.
http://dougrippie.com/products/stand...il-cooler-kit/
Really need to do some track days on the stock setup and see where you are. Many of us start out thinking power, that is the last thing you need with a track car. You will probably need engine cooling before oil cooling and then you can just use one of the dual setups.
Plan on a couple of sets of brake pads and a set of rotors before you get to that point.
My first challenge is dealing with an F/I car, as in the nature it already has a tendency to run on the warm side in oil temp, currently it has only the OEM cooling system, water temp seems not to be an issue yet so going after the oil. I'll see north of 300 degrees in oil temp when pushing 80% drive pace on a roadcorse, tracks involved here are Laguna Seca, Thunderhill, Buttonwillow and Sears point all located in Northern California. Normal outside temps I would estimate between mid 80's-105'ish, I don't run during the hottest months of the year, June-August are my off months.
I was interested in the "license plate" style front bumper mount with a mesh screen as I am already pretty tight on space in front of the radiator with the intercooler, sounds like the 619 is the way to go for that. Does anybody know if that requires longer hoses to reach that location?
Lastly, brakes, pads, tires, seat, harness are already solved on my end so I feel pretty good there. And I could be spared the "F/I doesn't work for roadcorse applications", there are plenty of cars out there running wot for full sessions without critical heat issues so I just need to find what works for me. I have plenty of roadcorse seat time from turbo imports, however with 2-3L engine displacement, heat wasn't much of an issue...
I will also work on some cowling in general to force air to stay where it should, currently the car is missing the front radiator shroud from A&A so I will be ordering that as well.
Hopefully this will help clarify my situation
Thanks!
Last edited by Larzmat; 07-25-2014 at 03:39 AM.
#15
Instructor
Does anyone have a complete parts list with Setrab part numbers including everything to do the install? That would include the cooler, fittings, hose etc.
I've narrowed down to the Proline cooler, Setrab # 50-172-7612
But don't know what fittings, and how much hose is needed etc
I am looking to install on my 02 for HPDE.
I've narrowed down to the Proline cooler, Setrab # 50-172-7612
But don't know what fittings, and how much hose is needed etc
I am looking to install on my 02 for HPDE.
Cheers,
Tom